Search results for:

68 = BB size
P = Pista
120 = what rear dropouts it should be matched to (120mm)

More grease

Quick release or bolt up?

If Quick release the axle compresses so you actually need more play before you tighten.

You could have tightened the lock nut up and its also tightened the cone.
You need to hold the cone with one cone spanner then tighten the lock nut against it.

There will be numerous videos on youtube, but as far as I can tell you have somehow managed to tighten the cone indirectly or you are using a QR.

Just space out and re-dish.
Once again, its not rocket science, and there will be a million threads on the internet how to do it.

You'll will run out of thread for your sprocket using those spacers.

The chainline is taken from the middle point between the 2 drop outs

4mm spacing on each side won't move the hub as you have mentioned so chainline won't change.

You can't move the cog on a fixed gear hub, it screws into one place only.

You will likely need to redish, which isn't rock science. Tighten non-drive spokes, loosen drive side.
Read here for help: http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/how-to-fixed-conversion.html

2 options:

1) get a dremel like tool and cut 2 notches into the bolt so you can use a flat head screw driver on it (use something to get good leverage on it)

2) find a screw extractor for a power drill, it has a reverse thread so when you push it into the stripped area it will bind to the metal, obviously use a low rpm/high torque setting on the drill

Get a file out, and file them down where necessary.
Had a similar problem and mine is now running smooth.
Its pretty ghetto, but works

Please explain

Its an age old joke, there is obviously no such thing. You can never shim bars or stem to make them smaller.....

Give that coin trick a try.

I got my LA84's into a 26mm Nitto.
Try this method, put a coin or something and use the screw to open up the clamp area. http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/17/inserting-a-handlebar-into-a-stem/

So I have managed to come across two Zipp 530 clincher rims, both in 18H.
So both fronts.... but I want a rear.
I can source hubs easily enough.

Has anyone had experience lacing 18h rims for a rear track wheel.
The only lacing patterns I can find are crows foot, or having a combo of radial non drive and cross drive side, differing number of spokes each side.

Has anyone had any experience lacing rear 18h's or running low spoke count crow's foot lacing? So far from my searches there isn't much information.

Hope you can help.

What makes you say that.

Just a wipe with some autosol every month should be enough shouldn't it?

Aluminium or whatever it is made out of will oxidise.
Paint and anodizing prevent oxidising of metal
But yes autosol will clean it up nicely

Original forks so no not 650c.
Scrap metal or bike, everyone to their own

Keeping it all, couldn't bare to sell.
Need to invest in matching colour tyres...

My KHS Aero Track
Frame: True Temper Steel, made in the USA
Cranks: Superbe x Polished Campagnolo Track 1/8''
Pedals: Suntour Superbe NJS
Stem/Bars: Nitto 100m Jaguar to Cinelli LA84 Bullhorns
Rear Wheel: Campagnolo Record Track to Velocity Deep V
Front Wheel: HED Deep
Headset: Shimano Durace 1"
Saddle: Turbo

Wish they all made all bikes like that, such a classic

Cool idea, now just have to post 3 times, here goes one