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october last year it was.
de-stickered cxp33 on a fixed-free eno hub.
the rim was also dented in one place, and the rim braking surface was completely untouched. Nothing on that wheel says it's mine so all i can do at best is cry a little.
Shit - I hope it's not yours. Obviously this is of little help to you now, but I always engrave my initials under the rim tape on any fancy wheels, for exactly this kind of scenario. Do you want the ebay seller's email address?
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ebay at a guess?
Good guess :)
Dylan when was your wheel nicked? The auction I got the wheel in was last year sometime - it's been sitting in my office gathering dust since. If your wheel was stolen last year I'd be happy to put you in touch with the person I bought it from, if I can still get his details from ebay.
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SOLD! to Mattty.
She's in the post.ENO hub (for converting bikes with vertical dropouts to fixed/singlespeed), fixed/free threads. Laced with double-butted spokes to a silver CXP-33.
It's the now-discontinued style of ENO hub - e.g. you can use normal cogs, instead of their proprietary splined ones. A few cosmetic scratches on the braking surface, and a slight ding (shown in the photos) but the rim has never seen a brake pad. Spacing is 130 mm. Bearings are smooth, wheel is true. I'm only selling because I foolishly bid on two on ebay at the same time, and won them both. I just want what I paid, which is 95 quid (posted).
Photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36067328@N05/sets/72157624641879111/
If anyone is interested, PM me. -
To Sanddancer, and anyone else who might be looking, I have a 32h ENO fixed-free laced to a silver Mavic CXP-33 with double-butted spokes for sale. It's the old style of ENO - e.g. you can use normal cogs, instead of their proprietary splined ones. A few cosmetic scratches on the braking surface, but the rim has never seen a brake pad. Spacing is 130 mm. Bearings are smooth, wheel is true. I'm only selling because I foolishly bid on two on ebay at the same time, and won them both. I just want what I paid, which is 95 quid (posted). If anyone is interested, PM me.
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I've got a nearly-new Ortlieb Track 35 if you're interested in that.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Ortlieb_Track_35_Rucksack/5360022379/
Looking for 60 quid posted -
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As the title says. I bought an old touring bike with a battered old Rolls on it. Still fine, but split along the back with foam visible, etc, and cracking along the top.
If someone wants it and can be arsed to paypal me a couple of quid for postage (or lives in Oxford and wants to grab it from me) it's all theirs.
No photos cause it's a free saddle. :) -
See, I knew it was a stupid question! :)
Thanks again.Moving to the inner ring position shifts the chainline inboard by about 6-7mm, and with no possibilty of moving it back out by using a longer BB spindle. No hubs are that narrow. Also, you'd need to fabricate a spacer for the hidden bolt, similar to the one which is usually sandwiched beteen the rings on the stock set up but longer to take account of the absence of the outer ring. Oh, and if you use a ring much over 42, especially on a track frame with no dimple or curve in the chainstay, it will hit the chainstay.
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Wow. Thanks for that. One stupid question remains:
Couldn't you get the 1.3mm back by (sacrilegiously) mounting the chainring on the inside of the spider, or am I missing something?Yes, any adjustment would have to be made at the other end. My post about the actual chainline must have got lost in the server fail, and I've lost the Post-it note bearing the calculation, but a quick measurement gives me 46.5mm to the centreline of the chainring. The same measuring method on an old Goldtec hub gives 45.2mm to the centreline of an EAI 3/32" sprocket. I think the EAI 1/8" sprockets have the same chainline, and Phils about 0.5mm less. Fortunately, I use the slightly wider Mavic Ellipse which gives me a precisely aligned chain with a 0.4mm shim under an EAI 1/8" sprocket, but with a Goldtec you could be 1.3 to 1.8 out of line. You could get 1mm back by machining the inside mounting face of the Goldtec Chainring and not machining the cranks. You should take all that with a pinch of salt, as Goldtec have changed their hub design and I was measuring with the bike built up (on two different bikes), not on a workbench with a decent dial gauge, so take careful measurements for yourself before you start cutting any metal. Even quite good frames could be out of alignment by enough to make a material difference if you insist on getting your chain straight to within 0.1mm.
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Yup, interested in both. Especially the chainring. Why are you selling?
What's the crankset?oh...and have a friend with Campag 170mm 135bcd crankset who wants £25ish... i think, thought i'd throw that in as well....would make a nice set...
@cbitterman i have a Goldtec 1/8th" 135bcd 42t chainring for sale minimal use, £20 + £2.50 postage if you"re interested? i'll post a photo asap....
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I was really thinking about that, actually, as I've got a Veloce UT crankset that isn't being used right now. I got as far as reading your post on the subject with keen interest. What's the chainline like the with UT cups? I presume there's no room for adjustment there. Thanks for the square taper BB advice.
Go modern! Make yourself a Mirage UltraTorque set like this
http://jorj.co.uk/pivot/entry.php?id=28
I was so pleased with this hack that I've made a 170mm set for track use the same way.Ribble have 172.5 Mirage square taper at £24.99
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=CAMPCHAR300
or 170mm Mirage UltraTorque at £62.01
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=CAMPCHAR901- £12.71 for Record UT cups
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=CAMPBTBR475
If you go the square taper route, I'd go for a Campag AC-H BB over the Miche, which isn't saying much.
- £12.71 for Record UT cups
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Have a look through this thread, go to last page. Nobody has mirage cranks but most peeps with goldtechs seem to use 111mm. http://www.londonfgss.com/thread3372-6.html
That's an amazing list. Thanks for pointing it out.
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Whatever the tyre, just pump as much air into them as they are designed for...
And don't ride on them flat.
You probably ripped a sidewall after riding on that tire when it was punctured. Either that or you don't inflate your tires to an adequate pressure. I have gatorskins on all my bikes, have have one puncture in the last 2 years, and the sidewalls are perfectly intact. Like a lightbulb, in that respect. ;) -
I haven't got Goldtech hubs but I seem to remember that they will need to be matched with a 110ish BB for a good chainline. Maybe someone else can tell you for sure.
It'll depend on the offset of the crank, which I'll admit to knowing nothing about, not having seen them in person. The 107mm was just a guess. If it's wrong, I'll just flog it on the forum for a fiver. :)
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yes - newer Campag is 135 BCD, which the Goldtec rings fit.
175 mm may be a bit long for fixed, but my current conversion has 172.5s and I've heard the BJ Vigorelli frames have crazily high bottom brackets. In any case, I can get the Mirage cranks in 172.5 also.Doesn't Campy use an oddball BCD? And don't you think 175mm arms are a bit long for fixie?
Just askin'.
Dibsed, PMed, and Paid fo'.