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Gone. Happy travels, Lazysuperhero.

This one:
https://www.thebikeboxcompany.co.uk/product/deluxe-bike-case-169/

Used once, has wheels, accepted by airlines. Might still have wheel bags (I haven't looked)

Free to whoever can come and collect it from Stockwell (near the station).

Columbus do a 1" carbon fork, Ceeway do them at a good price - check if it comes with a bung (can't use star nuts on carbon). Almost no-one does 1" ahead stems anymore, because you can use a 1 1/8" stem with a shim on a 1" fork, so why make a specific one for the three people who want them? Sometimes you can get one on ebay. Miche do a perfectly serviceable 1" threadless headset for £30ish. You can convert a threaded headset to threadless by striping out the threads. Don't forget some carbon assembly paste before clamping up the stem.

(I know all this because I just built a bike with a 1" threadless carbon fork)

Do it! You know it makes sense!

(what could possibly go wrong?)

West Systems 105/205 epoxy with 404 high density filler where it was gappy. It's okay to work with, and the filler powder lets you get the consistency you need/want so it doesn't run everywhere. I've sat on it, and it seems pretty stable - have yet to go for a test ride. Coldharbour is the expert on this. If I had a lathe and mill I'd be building a stainless/carbon homage to ALAN. Not sure if any OTS lug sets would be suitable... might have to have a look, seeing as I now have a spare 753 back-end and no project on the go

I know, saddle angle....
I just got a but too excited about it actually being a single object.

To this:

From this:

I'm an entirely dull, middle aged, IT professional who works in the city and rides a short commute each day on fixed gear bike. Every day is as uneventful as the last (except the time 5 years ago when I was /that/ close to getting 'doored' by a taxi passenger). AMA.

Yes, I think you should. Alignment and clamping will be the biggest challenge. If 1) the tab and frame are clean, 2) you've got some flux in there, 3)they are clamped together so the gap is not more than 0.2mm (mostly), 4) you have a fairly flowing brass, 5) You get both frame and tab nice and hot, then the brass will flow into the join, fill all the space between the tab and the frame and stick beautifully. A bit of gravity always helps. Under those conditions you can make a perfectly safe, clean braze, with just propane, in your shed. If you are doubtful, get some practice tube from Ceeway, braze things to it, then try and break them off. Hardest thing (for me) is getting the frame held, and the tab properly clamped to it, with flux, in such a way that you can still measure that it is in the right place. The flux means you can't see any beautifully drawn alignment markings very well. I end up measuring things for about three times longer than I spend actually brazing.

Art.100 is one along, one down from Art.101, nestled between 176 and 118, obviously! Not sure if they are 6.3 or 6.7mm - will measure tomorrow. If you're doing this for discs, will you be going for hydraulic or cable. If hydraulic you'll want something else, as you'll have to pass the tube with an end fitting through, or have an doofer that takes a little clip or cable tie (Art.200, fourth row, third in).

How many/what size cable guides did you want? I've a few of Ceeway's Art.100s kicking about, and can throw in some brass and flux if you want. I'm in Stockwell, quite near the tube.

(If you bring your frame at a weekend, you could probably braze them on as well - not sure when though as children keep me stupidly busy)

Jigless joy! I spent about an hour measuring and checking, not quite believing the curly chainstays actually held the wheel straight. Really not sure why I thought this bike was a good idea, but I'm very glad I did.

Thanks @Velocio, @coldharbour and @danstuff. I love a bit of frame building, me.

Total weight as it stands is pretty bang-on 7kg.
Just Dura-Ace 7800 derailleurs, brakes, BB and Ultegra SPD pedals and chain to go.

Back-end is glued in. That wasn't stressful at all, oh no.
Cable guides for rear brake and derailleur are on. I've made a pigs of taping the bars. And I found a bargain 7800 crankset on ebay:

That would be good!

Bottom brackets with an slightly under-powered torch! The hearth is just a little open-front-and-top box of vermiculite,this reflects the heat and creates a hot place (it was this one, except I put the blacket thing underneath: bottom-of-page(ish) http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/brazing-ancillaries/index.asp). It really helped keep the BB hot and silver flowing, even on chilly winter evenings. The plates are also very useful for brazing over/near a wooden/mdf fixture, when you really don't want to set fire to the fixture. Haven't really used it since using Oxy-Maxigas.

I started with Bullfinch AutoTorch (4100) a 4 bar propane regulator, a standard 13kg propane canister and some vermiculite blocks to make a little insulated hearth. (This works fine for silver lugs, brass less so). Practice turning the gas off/knowing where the valves are, and have a decent fire extinguisher close by, just in case. Keep your work-space tidy and free off flammable debris . I've only slightly singed something I didn't mean to once. I think. Hopefully. Extinguisher remains happily unused. It's totally worth it for the pleasure of creating things you can cycle on.

I keep coming close to buying it, but temptation is normally highest when I've just spent too much on tubes, reamers and bits of groupsets. I should buy it in one of my fallow years, as you say, just for the joy of designing things without having to build them to see what they look like :). Recently my beloved has used the words 'enough' and 'bicycles' in the same sentence, which I find both confusing and frightening. Will definitely get that book though, thanks.

BikeCad is also your friend: https://www.bikecad.ca/
The free in-a-browser version is good (and all I've ever used), but you need to find an old browser that will let you run Java Apps, and it won't tell you how long the down-tube needs to be, which is a pain, so either copy to photoshop and use the measuring tool, or print out and just use a ruler (I've done both). Err on the side of too long, and file for fit. A digital protractor is very useful, but I started with just my grandfathers sliding bevel and basic plastic protractor. Working like this just means you spend a lot of time measuring and remeasuring and squinting at alignments. Trust your eyes, they will tell you if something is in line better than most tools.

No acetylene, it's tricky to buy and keep, I've a little rig that using oxygen and maxy-gas (a MAPP type mixture): https://www.welduk.com/product/maxy-gas-oxyturbo-90-kits.

First two bikes were just silver brazed lugs with plain old propane. The oxy-gas is lovely, but not necessary.

No jigs. Just a vice. (I now have a couple of vices, but first bike, just one)

You can!
I started here http://www.ceeway.com + http://www.cupalloys.com with a beefy propane torch, and good hacksaw and half-round file and a bunch of youtube videos of frame builders.

(and this http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi)

Built this on my dining table: