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and equally as shocking is how much energy you put into being such a jackass.

poor form mdcc. really piss poor. i vote for a ban. you are the leader jackass.

pick on me ffs. I don't care. But to come on here a criticize someones work so apologetically is just... well... it's just shitty.

you guys are all ridiculous.

On a singlespeed, you can set up that Hussefelt guide so that it never actually touches the chain unless unless the chain is trying to go walkies.

Sounds like he needs guides next to the sprocket anyway, a la Alfine

it's still not deisgned for keeping a chain from jumping due to pedaling with a bad chainline on a flexy bike with long stays, crappy components and single speed. MTB guides are really meant to keep the chainfrom bouncing around when not pedaling and don't really experience much force. i don't think the problem is analagous. I think his problem is when he's pedaling.

same with that above guide, as it is guiding the bottom of the chain, which is slack, onto the cog.

either way it's a pricey fix for crappy mutant bike.

How do you work out how much cable loop there should be?*

*in my case it would be for xt + DA bar ends.

see above above.

I know this is true of newer deraileurs.

Can anyone explain why?

see above.

^ actually scrap that the derailleur cable is too long, shit bike

it's correct.

you want the housing coming in to the mech barrel straight on with a fairly relaxed bend for two reasons. 1- a tight bend could theoritically hinder the cable sliding easily, especially under high tension. 2 - on shimano mechs (not sure about sram) there's a B spring which sets how far the top pulley is from the cogs. A tight bend in the extremely stiff shifter housing could interfere pulling the mech away from the cog.

The angle on this deraileur barrel and other newer ones necessatiates a longer cable.

if you really want shorter housing you can try with these. I've never used one so i can't say. seems like unneeded complexity.

you cannot use a guide either. they are not designed to take that kind of force. i understand the idea is ridiculous to begin with.

i like the bike. the bars are a bit ridiculous.

this is what wear:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLl5y9RZI7c

^ Err, I think you have misunderstood what we've been talking about

This is the ugly thing we're on about, the cranks and STI's don't fit in at all

totally misunderstood

that is ugly and clearly updated.

What are you talking about? The Merckx has acquired a complete new groupset, pedals, wheels, saddle and handlebars

the mech and cranks don't look very new to me. i was ignoring the rest.

i'm not really an expert on components and shit though. just looked very similar to an old 600 mech. i knw it's not a 600

clearly dual pivot brakes though.

it's just the levers that are new.

^thats hawt

Wut?

Could you expand on this jersey?

Like all frames, MTB frames are designed to have a certain headangle i.e 67 degrees. The geometry of MTB frames are designed to accept **relatively long **suspension forks and have the right headtube angle. As such, when you're running a rigid fork on a bike that is designed for **relatively long **suspension forks you have to suspension correct the rigid fork. This basically means making it longer than it needs to be so it raises the front end to the point that a suspension fork normally would. if you didn't the front end would be too low and too steep.

here is a dramatic example of a suspension corrected fork. It's fairly easy to imagine that with out the fork being that long, the headtube would be near vertical.

these look incredible.

full link: http://outlier-feit.com/

Manufactured by: http://www.feitdirect.com/shop/

^thats incorrect.

Been asked to look at this for a friend, but all they don't know a lot about it. They were told it was an AMP3 bike - but having contacted Amp Research, they say it's not one of theirs.

Any ideas would be gratefully received...

And the rest was Shimano XTR.

Cheers,

Simon

interesting bike. it's titanium unless the photos are deceiving. Steel would have some rust somewhere and i can't see a spot of it. FYI, but those are interesting parts. that fork is a classic. i'm sure it rides like shit now, but it's a classic.

nice frame. nice welds.

I'd recommend getting another brake to go with the coaster. I ran a similar set up (admittedly with a kid on the back too), and I had a little trouble stopping on downhills when fully laden. The brake would just creak a lot and sound in pain, or just lock out the back wheel, both not fun with a heavy bike on a steep descent. Looks like a fun shopping ride.

yes where i live it's flat except for one hill (i live in the "heights". but yes i was thinking of that. the coaster brake was sort of an accident. it was the cheapest wheel in the shop, so i went with it and ditched the cables.

Whats goin on with the headtube on the pompino?

something completely insane. i don't want to know the answer.

nice what is it?

lets talk about it

wish

Pretty much finished, just need to change the wooden seat post for a clear acrylic one. Think it looks better, but can chop and change.

i've never seen such a well executed disaster.