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Hubjub.

I'm curious as to why this option is even muted - who would chose to buy after market Gossamer cranks?

FWIW the BB30 Gossamers I own slide right out with a gentle press. Compared to removing a 'dale spindle it's stupidly easy.

Uh, people who lack cash, maybe? Because it's cheaper. By around £100.

The P2max Gossamers are not BB30 so not sure how that's relevant...

I ordered direct from p2m so I wouldn't know.

By the way - anyone considering the FSA Gossamer version - DO NOT buy it. Nothing wrong with the power meter itself, but the BB spindle on the FSA cranks is such a tight fit in the BB that it's really difficult to swap between bikes. You'll be hitting it so hard with that rubber mallet that you'll probably break something.

You do realise you can buy a P2M from an online shop in Germany that accepts card payments, don't you?

nicest bike i have ever seen. beautiful!

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Ah right fair enough, I wouldn't wanna spend that much on shoes for work myself, especially not white ones!

You can use mountain bike (SPD) cleats with them with an adaptor. Costs about £11

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sh-sm85-cleat-adapter-plate/

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I've always ignored it, but I imagine it would be of use for steady state paced efforts like a TT- you could play around with gearing for the 10/25 miles and then see what your average power was against your HR say (I am aware that HR is deeply unfashionable, but it does give a general idea of how hard you are working).

i.e. 10 miles at 300 watts in 25 minutes is your baseline, do that at a cadence of 60 and then again the following week at a cadence of 90 and see what your PE/HR tell you?

Confused now... Quadrant analysis shows average effective pedal force vs circumferential pedal velocity, no heart rate :-s

Anybody use quadrant analysis in Golden Cheetah, and have you made any improvements to your riding as a result? How exactly does it work other than telling you you were either pedaling with a lot of force, or pedaling quickly (or both, or neither), how can you benefit from this info other than pedaling harder/faster when training???

Is this a comedy thread?

This serves as a valuable lesson to all psychotic motorists.

If you're going to kick the fuck out of a cyclist, take your hoody off first.

it's a specific 2 X 8 mins test. Seemed popular. I have no idea though. Just trying to monitor improvement, and get a rough idea of how long certain rides should take.

The most popular test is to do a 20 minute maximal effort (after a 5 minute max effort and some recovery) and use 95% of the average 20 minute power as your FTP (as per Training And Racing With A Power Meter by Allen & Coggan)

The most accurate test is to do a one hour time trial, since that is the definition of FTP (although I think Andy Coggan argues that the definition of FTP is actually the power for a 40km time trial).

Many people seem reluctant to do a 1h test, I'm not sure why, I don't think it's any harder or more boring than any other hard training session.

Not going to win much at 3.2 anyway. But it seems as good a guide anything else.

Depends what kind of races you are planning on riding. Power to weight ratio doesn't really matter unless you're entering pure hill climb races or mountain stages of grand tours... Even in hilly road races over here it's not particulary relevant compared to the absolute power numbers. One of my team mates is very short and weighs about 8 stone, he can put out over 5 watts per kilogram for 20 minutes but I've never seen his name in the top 20 of any road race.

If you're good at drafting, cornering, positioning etc you don't need a massive FTP to do well in races... you can be the strongest rider in the world but if you don't have tactical nous and racing skills to save energy and be in the right position at the end of the race you will still lose.

BTW having a decent FTP doesn't win races, if that's what you're aiming for.

You can't derive FTP from an 8 minute test.

That wouldn't go down well with the short-fused drivers around here. Like I said, my answers are based on my own experience of these situations, and I already acknowledged that others' experiences may be different...

Answers based on experience of 100s of club rides. Others' experiences may be completely different.

A.On approaching a red light and 1 or 2 drivers are at the lights, is it better to get in front of the drivers, to the asl (where there is room for half of the group), or wait behind?
If everybody waits behind, the group stays together. If a few riders filter to the front the group is split in two. When the light changes, the cars get stuck behind the front group and the rear group is stuck behind the cars. Once the car finally gets past the front group the people in the rear group have to drill it to close the gap

B. You are at the back of the group riding along a single lane road. There is a driver behind. Is it better to yell 'Car Back' and move left to let the driver past, or to move right and prevent the driver passing with a wave and a smile?
Warn the group verbally and move left. Moving right may annoy the driver, they sometimes get irate and start beeping and/or try to force their way past. Whereas if they see you've acknowledged their presence and made the effort to move left, they usually wait patiently.

C. The group is turning through a T-junction and almost through apart from the last few people and a driver comes along the main road. Is it better to request politely that the driver gives up their right of way by corking so the last few riders get through or better for the riders to wait and to let the driver go?
Cork it, otherwise the last few riders have to drill it to catch up, or they get dropped if the rest of the group doesn't slow down and wait

D. If the group need to turn right or move to the right hand lane or turn right. The front rider signals right and you are sweeping at the rear, do you follow the line or move, even before the front rider, to prevent drivers overtaking?
Rather than following the line I always signal and move as early as possible so the driver knows what's happening immediately. The sooner the driver knows that we're turning right, the better, and the less likely they are to try and overtake

E. You are a confident fast rider. Are you best placed riding at the front or rear of the group?
**Depends on the rest of the group. Stronger riders on the front sometimes go too fast and make those behind them struggle / get dropped. **

i mean, lets face it, no-one on here gives a fuck about power gizmos.

i feel that you should be asking these questions on the wattage forum

I saw that on Wattage. Insane.

I'm not sure about these glued-on, zip-tied, external power measurement systems...

I do like the idea of pairing the head unit with Pioneer music systems though.

Durex need to bring out a new Ant+ condom with strain gauges