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Seeing as it's an old Harry Quinn I'll asumes it's a steel fixed cup your having trouble with. Some times this works, take lge hammer and give face of fixed cup a couple of good hard hits. This will sometimes release the seal of rust/contact between surfaces of the threads.

Sirius track bike, 23c tyres, 170mm cranks, 305mm BB height (floor-Cntr)

As Hippy suggests, it just needs compiling into a single speadsheet/list. Not me though I'm afraid. I'm not the aspiring accountant type.

There you go Starfish. Mr DMC has the whole thing sorted on his existing thread. Already quite comprehensive by the look of it.

Here's mine just to help you on your way with your spreadsheet

I've a Sirius track bike, running 23c tyres and that gives me 305mm BB height
I use 170mm cranks and have not yet had any cornering/clearance issues.

I've found that 7-8 speed shifter/cassette combos work fine. They basically just added another sprocket on the back of the 7sp cassette, then adjusted the witdth of the freehub carrier to suit. Not a lot of development required to get the extra gear. 9-9 only though, same again for 10sp. Different index/sprocket spacing in order to get the extra gears.

Why not just give it a go as you've got the mech anyway.

I stand corrected, too quick to gob off, again.
Velobase says that the 7400 went thru a number of incarnations, from 6 (circa 1985) thru to 8sp (1998). Still if it is an 8sp mech in good nick, it should still be fine.

Hi Marxist, sticking my neck out without doing the research to back it up, but, I think velobase is wrong. A 6 speed dura-ace unit would be well old and even 9 speed has been around a good few years now. If it is an 8sp dura-ace I've found that generally shimano build quality at that level will work just fine on 9sp system.

If using a hacksaw I'd suggest using a tungsten carbide saw blade. Is often used for cutting ceramics,stone. It'll also cut through high carbon steel quite quickly. I've used it myself on both locks and seized bottom bracket cups with some success. Hope this is usefull.

Top right hand corner... it's a motorbike.

lol, very observant of you to quickly find the bike link

Having removed your lockring with a suitable tool, reinstall your wheel with chain in place, then using your bodyweight backpedal on your crankarm. Without the lockring in place the sprocket should just undo (the whole reason the lockring is there in the 1st place).