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http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
"If, however, you want to do it right, and your frame is steel, cold setting is the better way to go.
If you're going more than one size, say from 120 to 130, or from 126 to 135, you should definitely cold set the frame."
set hub washers down by 2.5mm each side then cold set to 130?
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im sure ive got some cone nuts from some old scrap bikes half the size somewhere, then removing the outer spacer all together and replacing with an m10,
I like the idea of using this for a few reasons, first being its relatively cheap compared to a phil/goldtech,
i'd rather the security of a bolt on cog, i know many will use threaded ones fine its more of a mental thing of having 6 torx bolts as supposed to a lockring,
plus the advantages of running a still having the freewheel if it takes my fancy
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im looking at trying to squeeze this ns bikes hub into my 120 space track frame, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/LargeImage.aspx?ModelID=26858&FileName=26858.jpg and use a bolt on cog,
I want something beefier than the usual track hubs, and to me it looks like i could easily remove the spacers and replace with smaller ones, plus its a steel frame which i understand can accept a little strain?
has anyone got any experience of doing this? -
they've been released (as i gather ) by superstar bmx as their "BIG BIKE" brand, so the unbranded are likely to be their ow designed parts, unlike unipaks which i'm guessing are assembled from other stock parts.
theres lots of very expensive integrated bar and stem combo,s so not being able to adjust the angle wouldn't be a problem to certain riders, don't know what the one bolt clamping mechanism will work out like tho...
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mash and pedal are both being shown at cube cinema in bristol 23rd "A NIGHT OF NO GEARS"
http://bristolgraffiti.files.wordpre...pg?w=500&h=353 4£ according to uphill_downhill
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second dibs? on the 62 57 raleigh? in bristol can collect pay cash tomorrow.