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I have a rattle when riding on bumpy ground and i can' for the life of my figure out where its coming from..
Seatpost bolt is tight, the bb and cranks dont have any play other than chain looseness
Its fixed so no deraileurs, front brake is tight, handlebars don't move.Only think i can think of is the chains rattling against something?
Any number of things. Valve nuts loose rattling on rim, or no valve nuts causing valve to rattle against the rim. Headset loose, pedal bearings worn, loose spokes, loose toe clips, bottle cage nuts, chainring bolts...
Not sure what you mean by front brake tight. Check for loose lever or caliper nut not tight in the forks.
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Perhaps he has hiccups.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2299306 -
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anyone got some drop bars for a racer, in cambridge
track bars (and most bits) still available if any use to you or anyone?
http://www.lfgss.com/post1790729-472.html -
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anyone up for a ride this eve? meet at maypole at 7 for 7.15 start.
22 miles
route: Cambridge, Stow-c-quy, Wilbrahams, Fulbourn, Shelford, Trumpington, Grantchester, Cambridge -> http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=4295924I'm going anyway. Bring lights, spares and repairs.
Weather forecast good. -
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^urgh!
Reckon you'd need the 130, I had the 143 for a bit but it chafed my inner thighs! Recently sold it on ebay.
130 fits me like a dream. Wanna borrow it?
You could always go into Ben Haywards and use their bum measuring device, on the pretext that you're going to buy a saddle, or rather you need the measurements to tell your mum so she can get you the right one for Christmas. :) -
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I'd like to go out for a ride tomorrow (Thursday 8th) followed by a drink or three.
I propose this route http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=4187566 it's 18 miles.
Meet 7pm for 7.15 start at Maypole. I'm not going to hang about, it's too cold, plus gives us time to get back in time for food if you want it and beer/lemonade.Hope some of you can make it!
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got some bits for sale that may be of use to you poloistas
http://www.lfgss.com/post1790729-472.html/shameless plug
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Having a clearout - these may be of interest to you lot.
ITM Europa bars - standard drop bars, ergo bend 40cm c-c ... £3 - SOLD
Unknown track bars (from BA) some scratches and scuffs (would be hidden by tape) 40cm c-c at ends, narrower across tops ... £10
Specialized black flat bar cut down 47cm width ... £2
Kalloy flat bar 54cm width ... £3
Marin flat bar 58cm width ... £3
Quill stem 2 bolt clamp 100mm, 30 deg rise 1"/22.2 ... £3
Ahead type 2 bolt clamp 1 1/8" stem 100mm, 40 deg rise ... £3
Ahead type 2 bolt clamp 1 1/8" stem 120mm, 40 deg rise ... £3
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I don't think I need to space the chainring, Tis the other end.. Thought this was an easy fix to just space out the rear wheel?
Adjusting chainline is usually done at the chainring end. Most commonly by getting the right length bottom bracket.
The other option is to respace the rear wheel in the frame using different combinations of washers and nuts. You'll then have to redish the wheel back into line cos it'll be off to one side.I don't think you can really adjust the spacing on the sprocket itself. You want all the thread on the hub available for the sprocket so you can tighten it up.
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You need chainring bolt spacers to move the chainring out if mounted on the outside of your crank or in if chainring mounted on the inside of the crank. You can get them from http://www.hubjub.co.uk/etc/etc.htm#tn and probably BA in various widths. Depending on how many you use you may also need longer chainring bolts, i.e. those for a double chainset, so that they reach the threads and have enough thread to tighten up.
I've got some knocking about somewhere but only enough for one set so would only move it in/out by 1mm. If you're desperate PM me. -
woah!
http://www.engadget.com/2010/08/09/multitouch-dj-table-lets-you-swipe-to-rock/
mixing meets minority report -
my first gif!