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Clamp a straight edge such as a long spirit level to the door with two clamps, at the required distance from your cut line to allow your circular saw to run along it nice and straight. And buy a decent, high tooth count, circular saw blade for nice smooth cuts.
No outlay on spenny new tools, upgrade of your existing circular saw, win win...?
But you miss out on the plunge capability, the strip on the track that prevents tear-out, and the ability to perfectly line your track to your cut-line without needing to clamp it.
I've owned a circular saw for 8 years and a track saw for 6. I have never used the circular saw since owning the track saw. It is that much better. -
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It's amazing I survived to adulthood.
There was the neighbour's VW Beetle, with 4 other kids, sometimes in the back seat, sometimes in the bit behind the back seat; a Commer van driven by my grandfather, usually with the sliding door open, with us sitting on laundry bags in the back, or sat on the bench seat, my dad's Mk1 Escort 3 door, my other grandad's Austin Allegro estate. No seatbelts for us kids in any of them. -
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I hate the bit they have in Instagram now which pulls posts from Threads, and then if you click on it it drags you off to the app store, or worse, on desktop, actually takes you to Threads.
Why can't I fucking remove it? If you click the thing to "show less often" it's back again before you know it.
I don't want to be on threads. I had a look, it was shit, I deleted my account. Make it go away. -
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Mine’s a 10 year old S type 2 speed and this was true at the time:
The 13t from a 6 speed can be used instead of the 12t on a 2 speed if that helps. That lowers standard gearing to 69 inches.
For other sizes you'd need to dismantle a 9 spline Shimano cassette.I have no idea how I found that out. I didn’t change the chain set, just the cogs.
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@veLLo and his family at the Intermarché in Confolens
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Chris from Foureyes has done just what you need.
https://youtu.be/LxY-PB4WE10?si=Awd4-4613BijcV31
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Don't.