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Sold, but the size/shape just weren't what I was looking for.

I am selling a brand new custom Bigxtop Daysack in red. Here are photos of my pack: https://photos.app.goo.gl/OOOatliXR8Ih7TLi1

Price: £90 OBO delivered (by hand in Central London)

It's a lovely pack made by a small company in Poole. Here's a quick rundown of features:

• Fully waterproof pack with a floating truck tarp liner
  
• Tough 1000D nylon outer shell
  
• Volume: ~24 liters
  
• Waterproof full length front pocket
  
• Lid pocket
  
• Custom valuables pouch inside the main compartment (so totally protected from the elements)
  
• Custom compression straps that can be used to lash extra cargo to the outside of the pack
  
  

People rave about these on the forum https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/225477/ and it really is a beautiful bag.

Thanks for the repair shop suggestions. I'll check them out and get this ugly Polar HRM off my wrist and get back my proper watch.

Can anyone recommend a good vintage Swiss watch repair specialist? My '60s-'70s Rodania dropped out of my pocket and, although it still works, there's definitely something metal loose in there now.

Thanks!

Cool, thanks for the recommendations. I'll probably put on the 15T and bring along some spare sprockets in case it feels small.

Hi Everyone,

Do any watch aficionados have contact details for Kevin Keast (Chequers RC; races at Herne Hill)? I wanted to get in contact with him re my watch, as he's a watch specialist as well as a cyclist. I had his number but can't find it now.

Thanks

Still awaiting, unfortunately. Tristero's so quiet, though, we might not know when it arrives.

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have contact details for Kevin Keast (Chequers RC; races at Herne Hill)? I wanted to get in contact with him re watches. I had his number but can't find it now.

Thanks

Hey Everyone,

I'm off to Newport this Saturday for the first time in a few years.

Does anyone have recommendations for gear sizes? My standard gear at Herne Hill is a 48-14, but that may be a bit large for Newport. I have 15 and 16T sprockets and a 49T chainring which I'll bring along, but wondered if anyone had recommendations. I think the last time I rode there I was on a 48-15.

Thanks!

Thanks for the opinions. I was leaning towards the Surly or EAI as I tend not to switch gears on my town bike, and that seems to be the general advice.

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have any opinions on the quality of Token Cromo sprockets? I'm interested in how they stack up v. EAI or Surly sprockets in terms of durability, roundness and quality of build. They're a bit cheaper, but not such that I'd go with one if it was considerably worse than the alternatives.

I've moved house to the top of a hill and my old gear is just a bit too high to comfortably climb home every day.

Thanks!

Hey,

I'm looking for a classy-looking 27.2 ~250mm seatpost. I'd prefer an aluminium one (just got a respray and don't want to add any new rust). Please let me know if you have a good condition/NOS seatpost lying around.

It's to go on my late '80s Bontrager, so I guess ideally I'd get something that will look right on it.

Thanks!

A bit over a year ago a Rolls could be had for ~£18.00 (from Parker, etc), before it was 'reissued'. Same goes for the Regal; I got my ti rails version from the States for $70 and I remember the standard steel versions were going for less than £30 from a number of online UK shops. What a shame they're all of a sudden new (or NOS), so cost 3 times as much.

Your Micke cranks are definitely ISO, which would be part of the reason the Shimano (JIS) bb put the chainline way out.

Given you're running a track frame with (presumably) track cranks, a (presumably) 107mm Miche ISO bb (track standard for Miche track crank/track hub) and a 120mm spaced hub, you shouldn't have anything like the problems you're having, unless the frame/bottom bracket shell or bottom bracket are damaged.

As someone suggested in your original thread, I'd check the frame alignment. I'd also have your bb shell chased and faced before installing a new Miche bottom bracket.

I'm definitely up for this as well.

I used to ride that route to work. There's too much traffic and too many lane shifts around that junction.

Really terrible news.

I'm not sure I'd buy a NOS helmet though. I've been told that helmets have a ~3 year lifespan before the foam starts to degrade. A quick search gives a recommended lifespan of 4-5 years. This isn't an issue with the helmet just getting banged up under normal usage; the actual materials degrade.

I got around to popping out the bearings. Annoyingly, the bearing part number is not on the shield as with most bearings, but around the outer face.

The bearings are SKF 6200 2Z/C3 bearings.

Basically any 6200 (bearing dimensions) C3 (clearance) will work. The 2Z just means they have two metal shields. I had been hoping to get some better ones, but I actually couldn't find a set of 'premium' bearings in that size.

I have a Tektro (new & unused) and an old (c. 1986) Shimano 105 rear caliper.

I also have a left-hand Tektro RX2.0 brake lever. It's 24.0mm diameter; I used to use it on a set of standard track bars originally off a Bianchi Pista.

Let me know if you're interested.

Hey,

I have a brand new Stronglight 52T 1/8" 144BCD chainring. The colour is black.

I bought a chainset for the cranks, so the chainring is going spare.

All reasonable offers entertained. PM me if interested.

Thanks!

Will do. I'm going to disassemble them this weekend, so I'll let you know.

It's really too bad they build them with such horrendous bearings. Mine went after a few months of occasional use.

True. I already have 3 bottom bracket tools, but you're right, I'll want it in a year's time.

Hi Everyone,

The bearings in the front roller on my Tacx Ecotrack rollers have failed. Now I get a low rumbling noise whenever I ride.

Has anyone replaced the bearings on a set of Tacx rollers? Before I go and start pulling out the bearings I'd like to find out if anyone knows what kind of bearings these rollers use.

Thanks!

Hi Everyone,

I need to pull out my Phil Wood bottom bracket to Framesaver my frame. Does anyone have one, or preferrably two, Phil Wood bottom bracket tools I could borrow for a day or two?

Given I'll need to remove, Framesaver and reinstall, it's not overly convenient for me to cart it down to the shop.

Thanks,
Eli

I had a problem with the lockring threads being a bit too strong on a SystemX hub; I managed to strip the sprocket threads starting off at a light.

Given the quality of SystemX, Ambrosio, etc. hubs, it's not surprising that there would be a massive variation in quality from hub to hub. Some will last for years, while others will fail quickly.