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This is fine work, a TRILOGY!

This thread is uncanny and hilarious!

just be aware that some mtb rims are not designed to take the high pressures of thinner road slicks.
seen mavic 317 rims destroyed because people think you pan put inch slicks at 90 psi on them. you can but only for so long.

Ah, I see. Will be cautious then.... hmmmm.

DFP

Thanks for your reply.

I'll ride these tyres till they need changed or I feel like changing them, I appreciate that I may have gone narrow for the sake of it and they were cheap, and get something a bit wider for comfort but light for speed next time.

I guess I'll have to make sure these are at high pressure to prevent pinching them.

Thanks, good point.

Also I've had a look at other bikes out and about on the bike racks on the street, and see that on racing bikes with narrow rims and tyres the tyre barely protrudes 1mm either side of the rim, so assume that will be ok on mine with its mtb rims and 32mm tyres too.

Cheers.

The problem is the low volume of the tyres, you have less "suspension travel" when you hit a bump before you bottom out on the rims, so I don't see how narrower rims would help. Like cedywedy said, inflate to as high as possible. For what it's worth, I run Hutchinson Topslick (26" x 1") on one bike and keep them at almost 10 bar. I have only pinch flated twice in three years as a commuter. Pretty harsh ride though, and don't reckon I'd do it if the roads were rougher.

Cheers.

I was under the impression that having a rim almost as wide as the tyre, would be a bad fit, that the tyre would be at more risk from pinch flat - is that avoidable though as you say by inflating to highest poss. pressure?

Tyre recommends 80psi. High enough?

The ride is harsh, as suggested it does feel like bare rims sometimes over a bump or kerb. But it is quick! Just got to get used to avoiding major bumps.

Thanks

The tyres roll great, though dont take kindly to sharp bumps, would a narrower rim help the tyre to deform with out getting pinched and absorb sharp bumps?

Measured the BB height more accurately, 27cm floor to centre of BB. I guess thats not TOO bad with 170mm cranks. I do notice it is lower than "normal", so it feels a bit risky, but just need to get used to it I reckon.

Hello
I have fitted 32mm slick tyres to my old MTB, (26"x1.3" Conti Sport Contacts) to use as a commuter bike.
I have two questions...

1. The tyres fit fine on the old mtb rims, I'm just wondering if the tyre width is safe on the mtb rim width? The tyres are wider than the rim when inflated by 1-2mm on each side, judging by eye. (the wheels previously had 2.1" tyres)

2. By having lower profile tyres, I now realise the bottom bracket height has dropped. It is around 25.5cm from floor to the bottom of the bottom bracket. Is this safe on the road?

Thanks

Thanks the ideas.

What tyres do you recommend for 26" wheels for using around town and gravel/canal paths? ie. something fast on tarmac but with some grip for rough surfaces.

I'm turning an unused MTB into my town bike.

Simple, good looking and quite comfy - good enough for everyday ride. Quality of the finish is bit slap dash (mine has a small crease on the side which probably will turn into a big crease with time and the way the leatherette is trimmed and stapled underneath explains why it's so cheap).
Also, manufactures use free interpretation of the word "embroidered" - both logos are all but embroidered (transfer on the back and stamp on the side), so I don't get it why they use that term in the description :-)

Is there much padding to speak of under the cover or is it pretty hard?

bumpy road? I feel this is the saddle for you drumon;

Bet it creaks!

Are they comfy particularly over bumpy roads?

What do they compare with? (dont say they are like the turbo, thanks!)

the kierin cleaning method (video somewhere on this forum) is good for the cog/chainring teeth.

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread10799.html

Cool method, has anyone tried it on geared bikes? Think I'll have a go, looks like a good way to clear the lumpy gunk that gathers on sprockets and chainrings.

drdingy: Great, thanks for the reply. So rule out the Taho's.
Sport mtb's are good in your book, good for cycling, walking is fine.

Any other thoughts anyone?

Yup I will try them. Just wonder what folk think of these and any other shoes at that price.

Has anyone got experience of using these shoes?
Thinking of getting into using clipless pedals.

Specialized BG Sport mtb shoe
Specialized Taho shoe
dhb M1 mtb shoe from Wiggle.

WHat do you think of these and can you suggest anything else similar to them at similar price point, £40-60.

thanks

Have a look here

http://www.alpkit.com/colab/projects/jeanius/

Less maintainance, no oiling etc, seems good for town riders where getting A to B is the issue.
Presume you can just hose it down if its manky and you wouldnt have to concern yourself with lubing it nicely for the next trip, just tip a bucket of water over it and scrub the grime off.

Can't understand why it would break under cycling pressure, if they are used in some motorcycles etc... surely the belt can handle the torque and stress of pedalling, even fixed! Its not an elastic band after all.

What about tamper proof though? How easy are these belts to cut with tools?

..and... Why the eccentric hub? Can anyone explain why thats important?

I like it.

Saddle rails: firmly clamped now via coke-tin-shim.... Thanks.

Good luck with yer creakin' saddle livingasleep.... let us know how you get on.

cheers for the offer anyway!!

I have a black Bontrager post if that's of any help. 27.2mm You can have it for a lady godiva if you like

Thanks for the offer, but I'm abroad, not in london, so would require postage ££££.... I only post on here, because the advice is always good, fuss free and the folk are generous!!

Thanks anyway Dovoneil !

its a Selle Italia XO saddle.
The seat post is an average, nothing special mountain bike micro adjust thing.

I can see that the bottom part of the rail clamp is bent, due to the previous saddle having thicker rails.

The new saddle is held in place but it has a bit of play when you rock it back and forth, more than it should.

So is a home made shim ok in this case?

My new saddle is not being gripped tightly enough by the seat clamp.
The old saddle had pretty hefty rails.

Is it a safe solution to use a shim to fill up the space and get the clamp to hold the seat tight?