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Is driving harder than it was, less enjoyable, slower, more expensive?

It is probably easier as the cars tend to just work these days and are generally easier to drive (better brakes, power steering, air con etc,.)
It is much less enjoyable than it was 25 years ago to the point where I have gone from owning cars that were made for speed and handling to a car that is make for economy as there is no point having a car whose capabilities you can never use
It is a lot slower as much more traffic than 25 years ago
It is probably cheaper for me as I am older so insurance is cheap, cars are more economical for same type of car and petrol was never cheap even 25 years ago.

We're talking about those long skid that's all show and slow.

Well, you are now at least. Up there it was more of a blanket statement but all resolved now.

I never do anything for show, even my wheelies have a sound need behind them.

It still take you longer to slow down.

Basic principle.

You don't know how to skid effectively by the sound of it.

Slowing down to a stop from 25mph just by resisting the pedals is a slow process and it is quicker to do more abrupt skids. Knowing how to skid effectively is part of it, i.e. don't take all the weight off the rear wheel and slide down the road for 100 metres

Even off road I can still stop quickly by using effective skidding.

Or just work it out using online calc or this which is good enough;

42/16 * 27 = 70.875
42/15 * 27 = 75.6
44/16 * 27 = 74.25

Going to 74 or 75 from 70 will be pretty noticeable. And while fine tuning is easier done via chain rings it can be more expensive and more difficult to find chain rings in un-common sizes, i.e. 43 to get an in between gear in examples above.

I need all the help I can get so will take the faster times

Only segments I can get in the top ten on are uphill off road (which proves my choice of a 25c tyred fixed gear track bike off road is not a bad one for uphill speed!).

I did make myself feel better by going premium for a month to see what the other OAPs like myself are up to.

Biggest annoyance at the moment is my iPhone is losing some of the segment and then it doesn't count as it has deviated from route too much.

Have also used Halo hubs for many years with no problems. This is on road and off road with regular hosing down of bike etc,.
What problems would a sealed bearing hub actually have?

You are pretty much the same size as I am (same height, same inside leg etc,.) and looking at the geometry chart I would pick the 54. This is because the top tube length is good for me and the head tube length is large enough to put bars at right height.
I could ride the 56 but would need a very short stem which sort of means it is not perfect fit but would still be completely rideable.
Don't worry about the set tube length, that is irrelevant.

Mine has a hole in the same place. I also drilled mine for a brake and no adverse affects have been seen yet but I can't say what the long term affects are.

I am 5'10" and a 54 fits me very well (33" inside leg). See picture up there somewhere and internet bike fitting aside you can see that saddle height, stem length, spacer stack etc,. are all along normal lines

doesn't drilling the rear bridge result in structural instability?

Very much doubt it. The FXE is drilled for a brake and I expect it is pretty much the same for seat stay design etc,.
If I am proved wrong I will just buy another frame, the sensible choice being an FXE which is already drilled. (which is the beauty of riding a £100 frame)

It all depends on where you live/ride. I use standard road calliper brakes, 25c tyres and have no mud clearance and I get no problems off road. It is not muddy where I live and all gravel (mostly hard packed) with bits of single track (again hard packed apart from in depths of winter after a lot of rain)

If by SSCX you mean out an out racing on muddy courses then my bike would not be a good choice but for riding off road it is fine.

Of course there would need to be larger/higher/more luxurious/faster/higher charge versions available for those who get a sense of superiority via their choice and ownership of certain cars.

Could always replace it with "I bin Jeezed" ?

I am using 25c Ribmo as they work fine on gravel and hopefully won't puncture too much without being too heavy.
Yes, drilled the rear bridge with an electric hand drill and used a front brake to get the longer bolt and just used a nut to secure rather than an internal allen nut as felt it was safer making as small a hold as possible (plus you can drill straight through as hole size the same both sides so no awkward angles drilling from back of bridge)

Yes, have had a few Steamrollers. Prefer the handling of the Dolan.

Changed to single speed as bored of riding on gravel/off-road fixed as miss the fun on downhills and single-track. Picked up some forks in Dolan sale for 40 odd quid which match well and allow front brake rather than drilling my Alpina track fork

I trim rather than shave. Can't be bothered to try and get 100% clean but so hairy that it looks ridiculous in lycra if I don't trim. Only need 2 or 3 trims for the whole season of shorts weather.

In winter all hell breaks loose and by February I am struggling to get my trousers on.

I was saying that in jest. A new freehub wheel (with a freehub that is 120mm) is going to be very hard to find and there are no cheap options I am aware of.

Just buy the cheap 14t freewheel to try it out as I still think 80" is too high on a 29er MTB. If the mainly commuting is flat (presumably with road tyres rather than knoblies) then it may be manageable but 80" off road is going to be no fun

I would go for the freehub option as then when you realise 80 is too high on your MTB you can change it more easily and cheaply for something lower

I live in an area with lots of horses (wild and ridden horses) and lots of recreational cyclists.

The attitude towards horses is completely different and they are typically given much more respect (although the wild horses do have a few casualties each year, pretty much always occurring in the dark of night)

People will pass me on blind bends, into oncoming cars, pass way too close etc,. but as soon as they see a horse they slow right down, pass it widely etc,.

Something more imposing about a horse though I suppose...

Don't ask me - I am squarely in that 95%

You may now explain to me why I am wrong.

Could it be because you are in the 95% of the worlds morons you mention?

(purely asking based on probability)

Most of the QoMs in and around London have nearly all been taken by a member of my club. She has some ridiculous times!

Same thing where I am, one guy has most of the KOMs and what is worse is that he is even in my old age group (45-54) so when I filter by age he is still there at the top way ahead of everyone.

Agree, definitely don't need knobbly tyres for compressed dirt and gravel. And even if you do use knobbly tyres the effect of tiny knobs on a relativaly small 27c tyre are not likely to make any difference. The main difference will be they make the road riding part of your ride worse.

60% of my riding is on compacted dirt/gravel using 25c tyres with little tread and I fly by people on MTBs (until I get to anything remotely technical)