Search results for:

just found this previous post by Max:
The industry standard chainline for a double road chainset puts the inner ring at 41mm and the outer at 46mm. This is supposed to be a standard (so front derailleurs and frame makers are all in tune) but in practise it can vary a bit. You can of course use different length spindles and chainring postioning/spacers to alter it a bit to suit.

Yeah I have a similar situation except mine are old cranks with the nut where its attached to the front chainring rather than cotters. Going into a Bottom Bracket which needs a lockring. Mine had two chainrings and I drilled off the smaller so that means the existing chain ring sits out a bit further too. Sorry no help to edmundro but I'd appreciate what suggestions people may have.

I have an old road frame that I found with 3 piece cranks that bolt on to old style bb. It had two chainrings on it the sort that are put together in the factory, cheap nasty ones. I bored off the inner (smaller) chainring with a drill fairly neatly. I've been running this bike as a single speed with an old road wheel re-dished with a BMX free wheel. It all works fine as is.
I have some miche primato hubs that I will be building up next week. What are the chances of this lining up to give me any sort of chainline? I'm sort of thinking not bloody likely.
Is it true that the bottom bracket shell will be a different size on this frame too?

Thanks guys glad your tiff got resolved too. In a weird twist of fate I ended up in a really great bike shop getting it chased. I'm staying in the middle of nowhere just now so had given up hope of getting it done till my return to civilisation. However my middle of nowhere was actually pretty close to another middle of nowhere, Clachan of Campsie. It's actually pretty close to Glasgow but you would never guess, tiny wee village with waterfalls etc. 'WheelCraft' is the shop in question it's in a little row of converted houses with a tea shop all very quaint. The owner insisted on making me a coffee and then a fresh pot for me and my family on our return from the waterfall and made me climb a ladder into the loft to see how many rims he stocked. That sounds dodgy I know. Bike junk everywhere whilst they built wheels to classical music. If you're ever up that way just check it out the guy's a real character.

My other bike is a mtb have managed to successfully remove worn out bottom bracket. Bought the replacement but can't get it in. First time I have attempted this job. Being a bit of a doofus and not realising what was involved I may have knackered the threads? The new one goes in nicely about half way then gets stuck. Do I need to chase and face? Is there a way I can do that myself without too much expense? It's an aluminium frame.

Hey this is just what I was looking for the other day. About to start building wheels. I'm using IE and when I put Mavic into the search field it does nothing? I guess just some teething trouble it found miche in the hub field no problem. I guess some way to manually put in dimensions for stuff not on the database would be handy but I think thats already been suggested?

thanks for the help so far. I suppose it's not essential that I keep the threads but it would be nice. It would seem it's time for the trusty hammer approach. I just wasn't sure whether the tool I had was fitting properly. Just to clarify I am attempting to remove said cranks from bottom bracket spindle. You don't suppose these cranks pre-date the tool I'm using then?

The cranks in question are Stronglight swaged directly onto the gears. The bike I'm stripping down is an old Claud Butler majestic, I would like them to come off intact if possible. I bought a standard 14mm extraction tool and tried it out earlier today. Wouldn't budge even with me leaning on a spanner gripping the tool. The whole thing just seemed to get tighter. Not sure if the smaller of the threaded pieces on the tool is possibly too large? Does it all just need more lube?

I too have a Majestic frame, though I didn't pay for mine. I think the original gold colour scheme and decals looks alright. I was thinking about trying to spruce mine up without changing the colour scheme, till I dented it with a hammer trying to get the seat post off. Now it looks as though I will have to re-paint after some filler? It's an alright frame 531 with okay looking lugs if yours doesn't die of internal rusting make it look nice and maybe buy the original decals?

Good advice there from the last post. If the wheels came off an old touring bike for instance it's probably threaded. I had a similar situation to work out myself a couple of months back. My hub was threaded but rather than go for a 'suicide' hub I screwed on a bmx freewheel with 16 teeth and run it as a single speed, I'd recomend running at least one brake if you go for this option! With no wheel building skills and limited cash you can buy a cheap freewheel and the shop mechanic charged me £30 to re-space and re-dish the wheel to get a good chain line. In defence of the suicide hub? I've not ridden one but I went to the bike track today and the guy that teaches under eighteens said to go for it as long as I ran a front brake as well he claimed they never used the lock rings on there club bikes(used for teaching)?

Looks like this for the record

thanks for the advice Hippy took a look at it this morning and it makes a bit more sense to me now.

I was trying to build ss with the cheap parts I had but when I removed the rear cogs I found it won't take a spacer kit. I would like to ride fixed if I can. Surly do a fixed threaded cog which runs a standard chain so I could use this? My hub only has one thread then a longer axle coming from it. It came of an old Claud Butler touring bike, 7 speed might be or similar to the Dalesman.

well I was planning to build it single speed with a conversion kit as I thought that was best for the parts I had but when I removed the gears I found a threaded bit similar to the second photo. Though from memory I think my wheel just has one thread not two? It's definitely an old road wheel as opposed to a track. I would like to ride fixed. I just had a look at the surly cog http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FProductID=9492&f%5FSupersetQRY=Ksingle%20speed&f%5FSortOrderID=%2D1&f%5Fbct=
Do you think this would fit? I'm guessing this is for fixed gear. Also concerned whether I would get a good chain line as not much room for spacers.

I just bought a dmr spacer kit but it looks like I might be taking it back as my rear wheel looks like the second example? Would it be possible to make the second one a fixed gear? I just ordered a gusset half link chain but it's standard size rather than the chunky 1 1/8. I'm lost!

I have two projects on the go as I have two frames to work up. At the moment I have only one set of forks to furnish the first build. They are Claud Butler in 531 but unfortunately on one side they have an unsitely and unnecessary lump with a cup built into them. I can only assume it was a mount for a dynamo lamp or similar? The forks are due either a home respray or a powder coat but I need to get shot of the extra hunk of metal. Is it likely to be integral to the forks ie if I angle grind it off will I be left with a bloody great hole? Should I be looking for someone to remove it then weld? Anyone have any ideas?