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Normally you improve the building envelope first, although that's tricky if you have a difficult shape, planning restrictions, or lots of external walls.

Cheapest method is to improve/heat one room (lounge) and slowly work through the rest as time/money allows.

They'll own an edition to the artwork (I think there are 3 currently?) so they can reproduce the artwork at any time and sell the edition on... at which point the new owner can eat/reproduce it as many times as they want to instead.

I have the old 'regatta' version of this...

Yep, back to brick, replace rotten joists, reconfigure, insulate, first fix, etc... years of work (for me)!

You can never know the consequence of a seemingly bad outcome, or a seemingly good outcome, I cling to that kind of thought when things get tough.

We might end up accelerating climate mitigation over the next decade if Trump gets in... he really could swing the pendulum back based on the bullshit he's promising.

Corporations are obliged to make profit for their shareholders, so they can't do whatever they want.

Perhaps find a framework on a local scale that brings about positive change in your local community then find a way to scale that? It's far easier to solve lots of small problems, you can only focus on one thing at a time, etc.

It's a shame that your septic tank isn't contributing to our record-breaking crop of 'sweetcorn of the sea' this year...

I'd use a strong magnet to locate the joists and screw into those. The laths will be attached to the joists with lots of small iron nails.

As others have mentioned: keep it for sound reasons unless your ceiling height is a huge concern.

I'd square off that hole so it can be easily double-boarded in that area, otherwise the sound performance will be worse than before (a single sheet of plasterboard will transfer more sound than the old laths/plaster).

No sealant needed for mechanical fit, but really the whole design/approach is wrong.

You can get nut/bolt, or clip versions but they're both ideally suited to a vertical SVP, or only suitable for attaching to the top part of a horizontal soil pipe, although not when in close proximity to a loo! The original solution was a non-compliant bodge job...

What's the existing hole diameter?

Given the tight space, I'd consider a mechanical alternative.

Fitting video here.

Is that strap-on near horizontal? Doesn't seem like a great approach!

Why not a custom/modified vanity that builds on top of the boxed in soil pipe?

Depends on whether you're buying the freehold, or leasehold. Garages are often leasehold (with shared freehold).

If the freehold, then in effect you own both sides of the boundary and can do as you please.

If the leasehold, then you'd technically need the permission of the freeholder (which could be ALL other garage owners) with some sort of agreement to revert the boundary if selling.

I had a quote from LandVac which was £300 per sqm for their vacuum filled glass, the full quote was ~£8k for delivery of 56 panes to do the sash windows for the entire house (fitting not included).

Still thinking about it, but it's appealing.

I assume this is taping to brick? If so, your plan sounds good, although you'd need to PVA the brick prior to taping (let it dry properly) as otherwise the tape will be ineffective due to dust. The PVA/tape would still be your weakpoint (adhesion to brick). I did some tests with the PVA/tape combo on bricks and it's great for being difficult to peel, but eventually you can 'unstick' the whole thing if you keep attacking it enough.

An architect friend did mention some sort of Passivehaus putty/slime that was being developed for better retrofits, essentially a better airtight foam but I can't remember what it's called. There are also roll/paint on airtight membranes (glues) that you could use instead of the tape, but I expect it'd cost £50+ for a tin instead of £5 for some tape/PVA.

Boxes of Dupont acrylic airtight tape can be found on eBay for ~£100, so £10-£15 each.

As others have said, ventilation tape isn't up to the job...

I did that Korean Air flght with Seoul stop over, the hotel was AWESOME. However, getting stuck in the middle of the student riots when heading out exploring was interesting.

If you have a watertight seal I would leave it, but I'd consider where a future leak would appear and how you'll access it all.

Yep, 3/4" side will likely just need more tape, it needs to bind before you reach the end of the thread.

No doubt you already know this, but check the tape wrapping direction too.

You'll be able to see which join is leaking in that setup, is it the olive/15mm side, or coming out between the mixer unit and the 3/4" thread?

Pretty easy job really, I did my ground floor room by room. Agreed that rubble clearing was the time consuming bit. Lift boards, remove rubble, replace/treat bad timber, insulate (I used 200mm PIR), fill gaps, add membrane, new sub floor (mine's OSB), final floor (parquet). I doubt ground floor floorboards would ever be particularly salvageable unless your house has always been bone dry, 50% of mine turned to dust too.

Unfortunately there's always a chance you discover new issues to solve at the same time (bad ventilation, broken hearths, bad electric, etc).

Sounds similar to me, I got 200mm (from Wales!) for floors for ~£50 a sheet as the business was closing down and then lots of 100mm for walls more locally (leftovers) for ~£30 each.

I built 2x4 stud walls inside every external wall and insulated between (25mm cavity), then foam in the small gaps, taped the foil, then added a VCL too(!), mainly to pass the airtight layer between floors more easily. I also have a whole house MVHR.

I removed the foil from the cavity side to further reduce the chance of condensation, but that only made a small difference in the dew point calculator and was a bit of a faff!

I used a 5kw 'eco' wood burner in the lounge last winter and if anything it was too warm (~60m³).

Buying project spares for PIR makes it cheaper still and it's already been manufactured so you're effectively keeping it out of landfill (or that's how I tried to turn the negative into a positive). That's quite time consuming though...

Condensation/dew point calculations are critical with PIR plus some sort of strategy to keep air moving in all voids. Your building needs to become effectively airtight as any warm air escaping into a colder void will cause issues.

Biggest risk I still have with PIR (internal wall insulation) is joist ends that are now resting on/in colder brick walls, but I've mitigated against this as much as possible (treated). The ideal (but expensive) approach would be to rehang joists inside the warm envelope which would mean any U-Value could be used/attained, so PIR could enable building a passivhaus inside of an old traditional home, although doing this internally is very difficult/expensive and would be reliant on climate/location too.

Working with walls (the breathable approach) is preferred by many, but the dew point above 60mm of natural fibre normally ends up too far inside the building fabric, so you can end up with problems with that approach too. The low risk option internally is ~60mm of breathable fibre but the U-Value of that approach would be above 0.2 W/m²K, although some architects argue the reliance on U-Values for regs needs to be changed anyway (preferring more advanced modeling involving heat storage, lag, etc).