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Cool, I'll keep my eye out. Bizarre size on the Gazelle, wonder if they custom made it?
No, apparantly this was stock. It does make sense though, because with quill stems you don't want lots of stem showing, kills the stiffness... I'm a leggy 6'1" and have a tourer with a very similar geometry, and it works really well for me. It's very unusual to have someone needing more than 59cm tt and you can make up a couple of cm in stem length quite easily (I would have run this with a 110mm stem - no problems finding a 130 or 140mm stem).
Also remember Gazelle are dutch, lots of tall dutchmen!
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I got this earlier this year to build up as a winter bike project, but that's not going to happen any more and I need the cash... so it really pains me to put this gorgeous Gazelle Champion Mondial Type A frame up for sale! 531 tubing, this is a tall but not long frame, 64cm c-t, 57.5cm top tube. The type A was the "training" frame, so this has slightly bigger clearances (you can get 28mm tyres on this) and mudguard mounts - I'm told they ride superbly and it's very nicely put together. This is an early 80s frame, I'm told too. The gold paintwork is original and very lovely in the flesh! There are some chips and rubs (see photos - I took photos of most of them) but this is generally in really excellent condition. Rear spacing in 126mm, seat-post I believe is 27.2mm.
Looking for £160 ono.
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It looks like the same tool Royce use...
I was just about to say exactly the same thing!http://www.genisysconsulting.co.uk/royce-uk/
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Give the guys at Hope a call/email - they're very friendly and helpful, I'm sure there will sort you out.
Hello,
the thread is a little old but..
I 've got two questions about this HOPE bottom bracket:
-it is possible to open the bb for maintenance and grease it? (on shimano, on octalink it was possible with Dura ace, but not with ultegra).
-where it's possible to find the tool? And it's necessary to a have two keys?
(in other case I had the idea to build some thing that could do the job, a question of time..)I "hope" my english is not too bad..
A question from France, bretagne.
Thank you.
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Hello,
NOW SPLITTING BIKE!
I'm selling a complete fixed-wheel bike, which is quite a smart looking Falcon, albeit the frame isn't in great condition (e.g. some surface rust) but this makes it perfect for trips to the pub! This is a bike frame - would suit someone 6'2" up.
I'm also willing to split the bike up and sell the parts separately, because some of the bits are nice:
Frame - Falcon 25" with a 23.5" top tube (64cm c-t, 60cm top-tube, although the seat tube is quite slack, so this is not as long as it appears). As I said, some surface rust but a perfectly usable frame. The headset is ok but a bit notchy. Will sell it with the seatpost (unusual size). £25
Chainset - Shimano 600 170mm with TA Alize Track chainring 48t, 1/8". Good condition, will sell it with the bottom bracket (shimano UN54 from memory). £40
Wheels - Exal LX17 on Formula hubs. Built these myself, these are tough wheels in excellent condition, perfect for london roads. £75 - SOLD
Panaracer Pasela Tourguard 28mm tyres - the best gumwall tyres, these ride lush! Loads of tread left in both. Pair for £15 SOLD
Fizik Arione saddle - bit beaten, again perfect for a pub bike. £10 - PROVISIONALLY SOLD
ITM Racer 300 bars and stem (stem is 120mm), 19t cog, KMC chain in good nick, cheapo extra-deep-drop brakes to suit frame. Make me an offer, or I'll chuck the bars/brakes in with the frame, cog/chain with the wheels.
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@MrSmyth - I agree absolutely - if in pain, get a sound diagnosis from someone that knows what they're doing before trying to do something about it (other than RICE). That said, it took me three physios to find one that actually knew what they were doing. The first two were only interested in treating the immediate symptoms, bit of ultrasound etc. The third one listened, gave me a full once over, and immediately spotted the root cause being the functional deficiency in the glutes and then didn't just stop when the symptoms went away, but also gave pointers (e.g. the glute work!) to stop in happening again. In this respect it's worth having an idea of what to expect when you visit a physio, because you can then spot the good ones, especially when rehabing sportspeople as opposed to getting folk mobile again.
@scherrit - yes, quite! I've completely come round to the idea cyclists should do at least some weights at least once in their lives, if only to help prevent injuries and expose functional flaws. Would have helped me no end.
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My ITB issues (running & cycling) were completely nailed by lots of glute work - my physio said that virtually every cyclist coming through her doors had poor glute function, comes from being bent over in the saddle. Glute work: tennis balls are for wimps, you want a big fat hard softball; stretching the front of the hips; bridges; squats; single leg deadlifts; lunges. The last two exercises are particularly good because they challenge you to hold the knee in a straight line in exactly the same way you do when running/cycling. Extremely effective! Do see a physio however, because you need to be sure of what's going on and that you're doing rehab work correctly.
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Not the sealed ones, but I do have the regular ones (which are awesome btw). The only reason I can think of why they shouldn't work with campy brakes is the interface between the cable housing and the ergolever. I use mine on older campag 10sp levers and it's fine - the newer levers have slightly different cable routing. Only a hunch.
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A good point. It is easy to get the weights for standalone rims (Open Pro, DT etc, ) but finding the weight of say a rim on a Fulcrum wheel is almost impossible.
Is this because the makers don't want us to know...LOL. Actually, not too hard to back out a likely weight based on known spoke weights and likely hub weight. E.g. fulcrum 7 20h/24h weighs 1930g , pair of hubs of that quality (e.g. equivalent to 105s) are going to be 500g-ish for the pair, spokes 6g each:
1930 - 500 - 6*44 = 1166g / 2 = 583g per rim
Whopper! Give me a 32h Excellight/DT 1.1/Open Pro any day :-)
OK correction, maybe my hub weight was off a little, say the hubs are 600g, that's still 530g per rim which is a lot more than any of the others mentioned.
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Yeah, the hybrid is the best budget bet, trk is well padded and a bit portly. Be aware that the width of the saddle goes up with the amount of padding. E.g. if your sitbones are particularly narrow, you might find the hybrid too wide and would be better off with a road model. I wonder if there is a SMP dealer in London who does trial saddles...? worth finding out!
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My gf recently got a Selle SMP as a cure for a similar problem and loves it. Looks a really good design and I'm tempted to try one too. They have cheaper ones too - the TRK and the Hybrid - so you don't need to shell out 150 notes for one of their road models. Well worth a try i think.
Otherwise SLR Gel Flow for me, I've had numbness issues in the past too.
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Handbuilts vs factory. Factory wheels can be good in certain situations (aero, racey kind of wheels) but generally handbuilts all the way, you'll always find yourself riding a decent set of handbuilts in a variety of situations for a variety of reasons. The other point with handbuilts vs bling low-spoke-count factory wheels is that although handbuilts may come in broadly the same weight or slightly heavier for the money, their rotational mass tends to be very good. E.g. they have light rims (far away from the hub, where it matters cos it's spining) compensated for by more spokes. Rather than less spokes, compensated for by a heavy rim.
Groupsets. P-X and selling the frame is a route to a cheap groupset. Also secondhand bikes if you know exactly what you're doing, and everything is in excellent condition. Particular pains are stuck bottom brackets, cranks that strip threads, front mech band-vs-braze, brake short-vs-long drop...
I mix-and-match groupsets in a big way (including shockhorror shimano & campag on the same bike!). It's the way to go IMO, because you can get some stuff cheap (e.g. ebay NOS), and other stuff that performs better. E.g. cranks, some great deals on various brands of cranks; front mechs, no point splashing cash here; brakes are a good upgrade... Mostly things play together extremely well. Free yourself from the it-must-be-all-the-same-groupset bind, free your mind!
@edscoble You don't even need to change the rings, I have an 8sp chorus crank that plays just fine with 10sp chains. Theoretically they're x mm closer to help shifting but it really doesn't affect it that much.
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Those chain cleaner thingies are crap. Removing the chain and degreasing it is effective but gets me in trouble with my other half. I've since discovered Rock and Roll chain lube and the stuff is the bomb - cleans and lubes in one easy application. (I sound like an ad...) It seriously works well, try it!
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Still available - price drop on this to £160.