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I had a desk of similar vintage. First thing to check is what is veneer and what isn’t. That will indicate where you need to be cautious with the sanding. It’s surprisingly easy to sand through the veneer, don’t ask how I know. The drawer faces look to be solid oak. For those, I’d consider a rub down with a fine brass wire brush to get the old varnish out of the grain prior to sanding. It looks like a lovely project to work on.
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First attempt at a bookcase for an odd sized alcove. Wood came from the British Wood Panelling company, recommended unthread by Airhead. They don’t say what wood the panels are made of but I am pretty sure it’s American Tulipwood, which rather undermines their Britishness.
Still needs to be sanded and finished, and put on a plinth. Obviously I will be using Osmo.
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Practice. Not every day, but at least once a week, for years in my case. I use a double sided DMT diamond stone for everyday sharpening, I can reach for it and get my regular chef’s knife sharp in a few minutes then down to slicing. A Wickededge would be a faff by comparison, but I totally understand the appeal, and the frustration it removes. When I started sharpening, videos on how to do it were few and far between. I can also remember using the coin under the blade method for judging the angle, which is completely unhelpful. Blades come in different widths. They taper, and they curve towards the point. It’s a problem you have to solve with your perceptions and your body movement, not with coins. Like other forms of mastery, it’s great when you start to get it, but a royal pain before that point.
With all that said, when I take in knives from friends and neighbours to sharpen, they are often so blunt that even a beginner’s efforts with a stone would yield some improvement, so I always encourage people to try themselves. Just because you can’t slice tissue paper doesn’t mean you have failed.
That is a steal!
It’s difficult to tell from the photo what is veneer and what isn’t. But no, you don’t want to remove it.