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I had no idea. I've just read the whole thread and it made me weep.
To all of you who have helped and supported Paul and to those who are touched by his passing, I salute you. RIP Paul. -
For all the gator- hators out there, I've got to give my 2p:
used them solid for 2 years (ok, one went after 18 months) and they've done me proud. About 11,000 miles on the one I currently have as on the rear of my Fuji Track. OK, it's wearing through in places but it didn't suffer instant gashes at the sight of glass like the Vittoria tyres I have used for about 500 miles over the same period and the Vittorias are slippery-as-soap-in-the-bath when wet and riding on the rims is more comfortable.
Conti's grip like shit to a blanket copared to others I've tried.That's why I'm currently running:
- F:GP4000s(23mm) R:Gatorskin(25mm)
- F:GP4000s(23mm) R:GP400s(23mm)
- F:Gatorskin(28mm) R Gatorskin(28mm)
I've binned all other tyres.
Ha! - F:GP4000s(23mm) R:Gatorskin(25mm)
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Good on you if you manage to do it for 150GN.
I tried this a couple of years back and including the price of the frame and "nothing fancy" parts, probably cost closer to 300.Sounds like you've got a better frame than I had for starters, you may be lucky and have an English threaded BB. CHECK THE BB and HEADSET! Make sure they are standard English threads, not Raleigh ones.
See what you can beg or borrow first, especially if you can borrow cranks, chainring and sprockets and maybe stem, it'll give you a better idea of what suits your riding style. I find I spend more money on these three items than anything else getting the gearing and fit right.
Good luck
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Alright mate, how you doing!
Your brooks saddle shouldn't sound like plastic. It may be that it hasn't been used for a long time.
when you press the leather with your thumb or put any weight on it, are there any cracks in the leather? Or does its shape not deform at all?
If the surface is fairly shiny it may have been well treated with proofide or something in the past, this may have gone hard.
Try putting the saddle in a thick platic bag and dunking it in some warm water (don't get the saddle wet, just try and warm it up), or use a hair dryer just on warm setting to try and get the old leather warmed up. Once it's warm, give the leather a bit of a rub and see if wax comes off, if so you probably just need to rub this wax in a bit (the heat from your hands will soften the wax up).
If there are small or large cracks in the leather or it feels brittle (feel the edges see if they bend), then you may have to be a bit more careful. Try rubbing a little proofide in topside and underneath. Keep the saddle reasonably warm for a few days hours and see if the leather gets any more supple. You may have to do this several times.
Even so, if the saddle is cracked and the leather hasn't been looked after, no matter how much wax you put on now the leather structure may have disintegrated - leather does biodegrade, eventually. If the cracks get bigger or the saddle gets considerably baggier as you ride it, you may be out of luck.
(Cop-out clause: I'm just guessing all this from past experience with walking boots, i've never had to coax an old saddle back to life, but it's leather so probably behaves the same).
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Good luck for the ride.
Sounds like a tough challenge. -
VB, you are doing a great job man.
Thanks for all the effort you put in to keep this place running, some folks are never going to appreciate it, so just put your feet up for a night and have a beer.BTW, wrapping has gone away for me on 1024 screen. Cheers.
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I would guess that you'd find it really difficult to screw the nipples past the end of the thread.
Either:
- you have screwed past the end of the thread and you've stripped some of the threads from the nipple (softer than spokes so thhats where the threads get stripped).
- most nipples have an unthreaded portion of about 2-3mm inside the spoke end and you may have just used up this unthreaded portion without doing any damage.
If you have stripped the threads a littl, you are more likely to have the rest of the thread stripped than you were, but there may still be about 8mm of thread gripping the spoke and that may be enough if you're not a heavy rider. All depends how many spokes you have. 32/36, may be ok, less than 32 I'd be starting again with the correct spokes and new nipples.
If you have any spare nipples, check inside the end to see if they have an unthreaded recess.
- you have screwed past the end of the thread and you've stripped some of the threads from the nipple (softer than spokes so thhats where the threads get stripped).
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Full screen shot attached
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I can get the "Announcements" link on the same line as the rest by zooming out in FF.
I have just tested again with a fresh browser and ensured the zoom level is reset. The default is as per my example above.
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The browser is maximised, screen res is 1024x600 (netbook).
The image above does not show the full screen width, but I can get you one if you like.
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Some of the menus don't wrap too well in FF with a 1024x600 screen
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I love some of this guys stuff:
http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/index.htm
I most have read all of his pages at some point. You really get a feel for the kind of guy he was.The guy loved cycling, shame he was killed doing what he loved.
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...
the great thing i like about Finns is that they dont talk to each other unless they have to or want to.......brill, i hate small talk.Sounds great to me, I hate having to talk to folks about boring stuff and trying to sound interested. Especially with in-laws. :(
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The reason why hardened steel chains wear faster than alu chainrings as far as I can work out:
Contact area of chainring against chain = lots. (lets say 24 teeth x about 20mm square, approx 480mm sq.)
Contact area of one pin against two steel link plates = tiny. (If plates are 1mm thick, that's about 12.5mm sq.)Divide hardness of chainring by area in contact,
Divide hardness of steel pin by area in contact with link plates.The pin always loses.
If there is too much tension in the chain, some wear will come from grit between links and chainring but the pins still bear the brunt of the stretching force. The total force is not shared by all the links, the same total force goes through each and every link.
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I spoke to some guys in Aintree a few months back, can't remember the name of the company, but they do loads of powder coating of motorbike engines and parts. I think they have a good reputation for doing concourse grade finishes.
They quoted £70 for me. A bit steep I thought.
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If it's an old frame and forks, have you checked for cracks in the forks?
I had some forks crack right below the shoulder of the crown and the crack was invisible until I noticed the steering wasn't quite straight and the fork was being held together by the axle and some paint!
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Runcorn bridge run this week guys. Pint under the bridge at the pub they film "two pints of lager and a packet of crisps" hopefully then cruise back. Be good to see a few new faces out so anyoe that's interested don't hesitate to come along! All bikes welcome! Plus, me and Clifford had a meeting today regarding a relaxed run to freshfield beach on Sunday evening for a little fire. Everyone is welcome to that one too! Winter isn't quite here yet so don't wimp out too early!
I'm stuck for this Thursday and probably next week too.
What time you heading to the beach on Sunday? I may be able to sneak a couple of hours in the evening.
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Although I've never used a halflink chain, looking at Hippy's pic above, it would apper that you have to have the chain the right side up as well as having it running the right direction. Look at those links, they're flat along the outside and curved on the inside of the loop as vied from the side of the bike. I guess that all halflink chains are the same?
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- Clefty - New style Milwaulkie Hoody, WWR shorts
2 - Eightball - New style Milwaukee x 2 (and poss other bits) - moog - new style milwaukee hoody
- doc_si - new style milwaukee hoody + WWR shorts
- D. Generate - New style Milwaukee Hoody, WWR shorts (possibly something else if I can afford it)
- Rauri - Pullover hooder (maybe other stuff too)
- edscoble - men's 3/4 cotton short.
- jayloo - XS red softshell new and improved Milwaukee hoodie, 2 S grey, 1 S black women's cotton knickers
9.huge (need to check but definitely want some more shorts)
10.Andy.w (shorts/Milwaukee) Clefty Am I elligable as I'm in a different country. - damo (wwr shorts/windblock jacket(or milwaukee still unsure)/baselayer) + (wwr shorts/baselayer)
- Plurabelle. The girls' 3/4 shorts in black and a Milwaukee hoody please and thank you very much. Possibly the pants too if they're being discontinued.
- Milo. Men's 3/4 shorts in med. grey. pls :)
- Jim Jones - Men's herringbone shorts (and a pair of skinny jeans if I can have 15% off the sale price -cheeky, but you won't get if you don't ask)
- Rod Munch - S Black Windblock Jacket (and probably some other bits)
- Spins - M Hiding Hoodie or two, jeans and probably a couple of other things
- hoops - New style Milwaulkie Hoody
- DynamicalSystem - 2x Large Baselayer, new Large Milwaukee, 34" Herringbone Shorts
- Yorky - Herringbone 3/4 and new milwaulkee hoodie.
- supertony - Hiding Hoodie + Windbreaker please
- One of the pairs of jeans, and a hat of some kind
- Jonathan - Mens knickers in blue, baselayer red Medium
- C.B. - Pair of skinny jeans in 30" long or at a push 32" long
- EEI - new style Milwuakee Hoodie + Softshell Shorts
- Sparky - Shorts or 3/4 knickers
- Chuk - Large Milwaukee & 2x Large Baselayer (poss/prob some pants or jeans)
- Fox - some sort of shorts + probably something else TBC
- Red-Biff - Black Large Milwaukee + see ma knees Shorts
- Zane Chaos - New Milwaukee.... and probably some shorts
- Kboy - windbreaker + hiding hoodie, possibly a base layer too
- mowgster - WWR shorts in grey, size 30
- jaw - Hiding Hoodie + New style Milwaukee Hoodie
- jv - black summer weight wwr 3/4 trousers
- New Milwaukee and WWR shorts
- Ved - mens softshell shorts & windblock jacket (for the Ship innit)
- Machineisbored - cotton 3/4s, cap & maybe a milwaukee hoodie
- BlueQuinn - Herringbone shorts, poss mexican shorts, a cap or two,
- Wibble - Cotton 3/4s in black
- CYOA - Short shorts, hiding hoodie + possibly milwaukee hoodie.
- Kirth - new Milwaukee and WWR Shorts, possibly some 3/4 trousers as well...
- Tiswas - Sprinter shorts
- maxcrowe - Cotton 3/4s in black, new style Milwaukee hoodie
- chippedtooth - Sprint cut short, Hiding hoodie. BIG.
- mr lunch - New Milwaukee hoodie + sprinter shorts
- gralegav - regular jeans and prescription tee
- macca - hiding hoodie (or 2), pair of shorts though not sure which style yet, possibly milwaukee hoodie.
- lalanternerouge - 2x WWR shorts
- Pistaboy - New Milwaukee hoodie.
- Special K - New Milwaukee hoodie
- Bernhard - Hiding hoodie, 3/4 shorts, not sure which tho.
- lldn84 - Any women's knickers XS, new mens skinny jeans and a pair of reg. jeans pls
- Marcho - Black 3/4 shorts.
- Weaselyone - s women's 3/4 shorts - one cotton, one fleecy, new milwaukee hoodie
- Stix - Womens Softshell Knickers ,Milwaukee Hoodie and possibly Pullover Hoodie
- nny - Milwaukee Hoodie
- Skully 2 x Wool Flannel caps; 1 x mens sprinter knickers 34"/black (<unless Rivendell's become available again)
- hoonz: 3/4 shorts 34"- black or pavemt, merino baselayer medium, Milwaukee Hoodie medium. Could be tempted by the new line of jeans.
- andyp - New Milwaukee hoodie
- ShannonBall - Mens jeans or softshell, 3/4 shorts wide leg
- lightindustrialunit - Mens 3/4 cotton shorts, grey
- rik - New Milwaukee hoodie (depending on final price)
- tom_greenwich - Milwaukee Hoodie, WWR shorts
- nyoro - merino baselayer, t-shirt and cap
- rocker9455 - possibly interested depending on finaliased prices - shorts
- Buddha Fingaz - hiding hoodie. Cos I already haz Milwaukee Hoodie and I love it.
- PhilS, Windbreaker Grey
- dst - Men's herringbone shorts, windblock jacket please.
- deodara - new milwaukee hoodie
- ChrisMGS - "softshell shorts" OR "cotton sprint cut shorts WIDE LEG", and "deep-blue denim" jeans (all 36 waist. Jeans Long leg length)
- gormley windblock jacket, black mens cold weather shorts, cotton 3/4 black & gray
- rowley - mens 32" black cotton 3/4 (the slimmer mexican ones)
- Dyson - WWR shorts
- Gustav - men's cotton shorts
- ChrisNW - mens herringbone shorts, maybe a new Milwaukee hoodie
- Clefty - New style Milwaulkie Hoody, WWR shorts
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Goosegog = gooseberry. Manxism.
COKEY.
*prepares for battle.
Not just a Manxism, it's common parlance where I grew up in the North East.
Goosegogs are great, fact. Way better than mamby-pamby strawberries and melons.
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I can't make it this week or next week. See you around 1st October.
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I do almost 30 a day on 48/19 and it's fine.
Mainly flat route, with one hill on the way home, which I slug it up. Sometimes, for training, I go other routes that have hills and it's no bother.
When deciding whether to go fixed, I just selected a suitable gear on my geared bike and did my commute on that gear only. I did that a few times and fact that it was easily doable. So I bought a Fuji Track and have never looked back.
Similar story here. 36 miles a day, 2/3/4 days a week, sometimes with a longer ride thrown in one night. I did the same as Pistolero trying the whole route in one gear (on a MTB with slicks) for a couple of weeks just as a challenge. It's more mental attitude than physical ability, I tend to feel like I need gears when on a geared bike even though my route is mostly flat. (I also now ride a Fuji).
P.S. Single speed is bollocks, you may as well just keep your geared bike. go fixed or stay geared.
Single speed can be fun, much easier on the downhills and easier to jump up kerbs and over other obstacles (drains, glass, etc). Ride how you want to ride - it's your commute.
Having said that, I've been riding those 36 miles for the last two years with a fixed wheel and it feels sort of disconnected on SS now.
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I have just had a look at another old frame I have and that is also 70mm but has the raleigh 26tpi thread. Sometimes you just can't tell.
As Raleigh bought Carlton and gradually transitioned the Carltons to use progressively inferior parts on their lower end models throughout the '70s, I've heard it mentioned before that the wrong BB shells would sometimes get used on lower end models if there were none of the correct type left. They would thread the BB shell to suit the BB regardless of the shell width. I'm not sure where your Zenith lies in the range, or even if this was also the case with Raleighs. Best get someone to check it out.
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I've just looked at mine, the fixing for the rear guard to the brake mount allows the guard to sit right against the seatstay bridge (where you mount the brake). As long as you have about 8-10mm you should be ok.
Front mounting is a bit more tricky as the mounting depends on the design of fork crown you have, but you may need 2-3mm more on the front.
Good luck.
LFGSS
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Rather than mixing ISO and JIS you'd be better served by leaving said BB / crank arrangement as it is and living with a chainline that is out. Sure as hell didn't make any difference for me.
Maybe I get a bit more chain wear, but who knows. The original chainring is so poor anyway you'll probably get smoother transmission with a decent chainring that is 2mm out.