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I've just bought an Altura nightvision windstopper jacket, which I'm liking. It's windproof on the front panels and thermal material on the back, which like the gilet idea lets air circulate but also keeps you a bit warmer when you start off.
Loved my windproof cloudveil fleece gloves until I lost them late last winter. Trying to get a new pair.
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Sorry the "quite a lot of flex" is somewhat vague I know, but wasn't sure how to quantify it. The frame noticeably shift sideways when I press down on the pedal, whilst stopped and with the brakes on to immobilise it. I haven't checked too much when riding as I'd probably end up in the back of a car, but I'll find somewhere quiet and have a look.
What really made me notice was when slowing down. The frame looked like it flexed backwards, towards the rear wheel.
Size wise I'm about 6', medium to large build.
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I think they're metal, I'll have to check. It's an old Shimano UN72.
It's not that I don't like it, it's comfortable and forgiving, I was more curious as to whether there was much difference between frames or if quite a lot of flex was simply due to it being steel.
Last time I rode steel it was an old GT mountain bike, which was heavy and stiff. Since I've come back to riding after a hiatus of about a decade, I've ridden an aluminium hybrid and my steel frame.
Seeing the flex made me wonder what sort of variations there were. As I said mine was cheap, only £130 from SJS and a road frame at that. As many ride track frames and frames built by the likes Bob Jackson and Mercian I thought I'd see what others experience is, which seems to be that steel frames have quite a lot of flex around the BB area. I don't think mine's broken.
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I popped a tube whilst I was inflating a tyre the other week, damn near deafened me. Think it was a pinch flat around the valve when I put the tyre back on. Bought a new tube and followed the instructions on the packet, they were different to my regular method. essentially
1 Partially inflate tube
2 Place in tyre
3 Put tyre on rim
4 Fully inflateWorked well, the tube being already in the tyre seems to avoid piching the tube. Does anybody else use this method or is it just me being a muppet all these years and I should hand my cycling shoes in at the door on the way out?
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Just how much is a steel frame meant to flex around the BB area? I know the tubing/lug design has an effect on stiffness but in general what should I expect?
My frame's a cheap SJS one and is 531 main triangle with a tange rear. Now it's pretty light and mostly rides ok but I've noticed it does seem to be a little flexy round the BB.
It's didn't bother me too much during the 18 months it was an SS, but since I fixed it 2 months ago it's been on my mind, particularly when I was applying back pressure to the pedals the other day and the frame seemed to flex quite a lot.
More of a curiosity question than anything really
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I use Candy Sls rather than the eggbeaters and they seem fine. The platform seems to provide enough support without being too big and I can't remember getting any bruising or a time when my feet went numb.
The cleats have been going for about a year so far, but my shoes have quite a thick rubber sole so they're pretty recessed, as others have said.
I did notice there was more up/down movement with my diadora skorpione shoes than my everyday touring style shoes, once again probably due to the thicker sole on the everydays.
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I've got Dotek cranks. They were cheap when I built it as an SS 18 months ago, but they're nothing to write home about. Not totally sure what the BB is but have a feeling it's a 113mm Shimano UN72. Chainline may be a mil or two off but seems quiet enough, currently it's fixed which prob help the line slightly.
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I think I saw fatboyralph yesterday on Park Lane, if not the colour scheme was very similar.