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I used a 30.0 on my 2007 (well..its a white one).

posted for archival resource sake.

Peter V wrote:
My weight is 11 stone, the wheels are both 28 spokes, rear one is tied & soldered.
Will this be solid enough for me to use on the track or should I stick to 36 spokes/wheel??

Probably get away with that on a good track if its a strong rim, but don't use it on the road. Circa 1980 I had a 36 spoke rear wheel tied/soldered, tubular rim (lightweight Fiamme yellow label Ergal I think) . It was stiff as hell and felt great accelerating/climbing, but eventually I hit a pothole (only 10 stone weight, then) and the damn rim caved in.

Tipper trucks in this country are consistantly driven like go-karts down the public highways. Its crazy.

Cycling in Trinidad and the Caribbean is indeed enigmatic. Traffic, potholes, animals, and 9a.m.-5p.m. heat can kill you on the road. So the tracks seem to be a real refuge.

Grass track racing at Guaracara/Pointe-a-Pierre, Trinidad:

Apart from Arima (photos in post above) other active Trini velodromes are:

Queens Park Oval.. an odd shaped track in the Test cricket stadium:

Skinner Park velodrome:
http://legacy.guardian.co.tt/archives/2008-04-24/SA-1.html

Palo Seco Velodrome:
http://wikimapia.org/1495055/Palo-Seco-Velodrome-Erin

Another one (Olympic class') is supposedly under construction at Toruba but its mired down introuble'.

But still, not too shabby for a developing country with 1.5 million people. A track of some sort for every 2 to 300,000 people. Imagine if the UK had that ratio.

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Cheers! (my Missus is a Trini)

I used to ride a Speedstream Mercian mid-80s. Stored away now, but I do recall it being flexier than other steel frames. Probably not what you would describe as bomb proof, and I am only 10.5 stone. I used to use it for dual carriageway TTs.

Thanks for those Google doc files.....They worked.

Any chainline measurement known for the Macks?

Manufact'd rear brakes also exist for bodging dodgers with $$$$ and the bother.....
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=188_482_1210

I'm considering a longer stem, but that's more because I have a very long reach. In the mean time I'll be stripping off the pannier rack (after market) and rear brake for the TT season, which is the main reason for going fixed on drops.

Put up a photo when its done in full TT config. Would be interesting to see.

Ive had one of these for almost 15 months now. I really like this bike,

Any BB creaking yet? Just wondering how consistant this `issue' is and if I need some tools I don't have already..
Mine has been on the daily short commute for just over a month. No issues yet. Nice ride.

http://www.boingboing.net/2009/03/12/wooden-bicycle.html

Yep.

Wrap the whole thing in duct tape and leave in front of a radiator for about three hours. Strip duct tape and then dip the frame in sand.

After that, there is no way it will look factory fresh and there will be no annoying sticky bits.

Ok I did some of that....decided to leave the tape on for strength tho because I replaced the handlebars and the top and down tubes to make it less `Tri-crossy'.

markrjohnson, you were right about repacking the hubs...makes a def. difference and it wasn't difficult!

I've also replaced the front quick release with a Trans-X keyed skewer (poor man's' version of thePitlock') to slow the thieves down a tad if I carry less than two locks. I am looking for decent black tape to cover up some of the lettering on the frame to make it look less `factory fresh'. Is there anything other/better than electrical tape I wonder?

Finally putting mine together.
First encounter with rubber seal-hood things on the hubs (inside of the bolt). They seem to slow the hub rotation a fair bit. Does this stop with some use? Or are they even seals or just some shipping thing? They come off easy enough.

And now for my first V-brake setting up effort......

FWIW, I fiddled with Evans Ride2Work calculator and tho its listed at 399, using the program would have taken it down to 245 net value (for me) deducted in 12 salary installments.
My employer is too slow off the mark though. Did the Evans program previously for a Genesis and it took them 4 months to do the paperwork for Evans.

Makes you wonder if anyone is buying the full-price 2009s ... and if they'll have to go into a bargain bin soon....

Thanks TSK. I'm liking the idea of a fatter tire in the back. Fits in with the mental image of the Tricross s/s being a sporty pickup truck of a bike. (sorry... I lived in Canada when I was a teenager and petrolhead analogies were a staple diet.. come to think of it, the term SS' was branded to a few70s Chevrolet muscle cars with fat rear tires... but I digress).

I actually have a `spare' pair of race blades but I wonder if they have any tendency to get pinched when the bike is locked up in public for any length.. i.e. when commuting. Perhaps a cable lock will reach through both and be enough (plus D-lock).

Bah I missed the home delivery of mine today. Have to wait another week unless I drive to the courier depot 30 miles away.

I notice lots on-line seem to be immedietly switching tires. Are the supplied ones really that `bad' for the road? Are they that good off-road?

Also, in the meantime... mudguards. Interesting concept. Have observed them for decades now. But in my advancing years I think I should partake of them. I assume I can get away with the narrower SKS chromos even on days I run fatter-tired wheels? The wider ones are obviously more protective but also look like drag chutes to me especially with narrow road tires.

As I said on other thread, that's the first Colnago I've seen with mudguard eyes.

Saw a Colnago just like this with full mudguards in Brest (TdeF start) in July. So they must have made some.

Sorry then if I have created confusion.
I have seen the chain model (KMC Z-510-HX) listed as 1/8 and 3/32 on different sites.
That is what confused me. There is no definitive answer on the Specialized S'cross site.
I will bow to those who have the goods as mine will not arrive until next week.

Ok so now I've done some more searching and it looks like this chain (i.e. the whole Singlecross setup) is 3/32. Am I right? It's good from my POV.

A 1/8th chain will fit on a 3/32 cog. It's the other way that won't work.

Thanks, yes. Assuming the supplied Tricross freewheel is actually 1/8th I will replace it with a 3/32 freewheel I have spare so I can swap wheels freely with my `all-3/32' Flyer.

[quote=MattB;462309]OK, so I could just get something like the Surly 16t fixed cog (1/8th?)
quote]

1/8th yes it does appear to be 1/8th with the KMC Z-510-HX chain supplied. Thanks for pointing that out actually. I think I assumed it was 3/32. I may have to do some conversion one way or the other seeing as my Genesis Flyer is 3/32 and I'd like to be able to interchange parts...

Hmm I joined the critical mass and ordered one late last night on-line.
Was expecting a confirmation e-mail when I got home from work today but nadda. Should I have got one? At the end of the webshop order I got a Ref. Code'. Hopefully they are just too busy shippingem out. Not saying `sold out' yet...!

Picked mine up today, very impressed with the quality so far.

ps can anyone comment on the need for a lockring on the fixed sprocket. Guys at Pearson said not to bother with one?

I think you mean the single sprocket freewheel it (supposedly) comes with as standard. So no lockring needed.
A fixed cog would def. need a lock ring. You wouldn't ride far without noticing, I would say.