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Front derailleur is a Sram MTB X9 for 10 speed. Most FD have a relatively similar cable pull so they can be made to work reasonably well with different shifters. In this case there is some minor chain rubbing in the big ring - small cog position but not real concern as I hardly use that combination. I have also purchased a Shimano 105 FD that I haven't got around to install it yet: the main reason is not so much to get better shifting but to gain some extra space behind the seat tube so I can run a wider tyre.

Some pics of my Wolverine V1 overhauled last year for commuting duties and also the possibility of doing some touring with road sections. Transmission is Middleburn 44-32T double crankset matched to Shimano XT cassette 11-42 for a massive gearing range: good enough to get some decent average speed on the road and also to tackle any climb fully loaded. Shimano 105 11 speed shifters paired to Shimano XT rear derailleur using Jteck Shiftmate - so far working flawlessly.

Recently purchased a Bushcraft Essential Bushbox ultralight to use with an Esbit stove. I have only used few times but so far happy with it. I have a relatively narrow 750 ml pot and with the alcohol stove the flames lick the sides of the pot and it's not as efficient as with a larger diameter pot. An advantage of the Bushbox is that you can purchase additional ash-tray to put at the bottom and then use it with solid fuel tablets or even make your own fire with twigs (if location and conditions are appropriate to do so safely). If it is windy, you definitely need some sort of windscreen.

Like the Tangria triangle you can carry it flat, takes 1 minute to assemble and weights 70 grs.

Since this is not designed especifically to use with alcohol stove, there is a trick to put out the flame: just remove the inner rubber seal of the stove's lid and slide it through the open side panel to place it on top of the stove.

The Pletscher twin leg kick stand has marks to cut the legs to required length according to wheelsize or personal preferences. No thumb rule here as the OD of wheel depends on tyre size so better do an initial cut, mount the kickstand again on the bike and check (on a flat surface) how much the front wheel lifts from the ground. If still too much, then proceed to repeat the process until you get to the required height. Metal saw would suffice to cut the aluminium legs (round the edges of cut legs with a file). Use the plastic end caps for this twin model which (surprisingly) are not included with the kickstand.

As @goosenoose suggests a front stabilizer helps a lot to prevent a flopping front wheel.

I will say leave no more than 5cm from front wheel to the ground as it will help to keep bike stable when you are on an uneven surface (mostly all the time) and you will have a good chance of both wheels touching the ground. But as I said is a matter of personal preferences.

I carry the topeak super chain tool with an additional quicklink on a small tool pocket on framebag. When purchased, I tested it on an old chain removing and inserting a couple of pins and appared to be solid enough for occassional use. Chain hook also helps to keep everything in place when inserting the pin, although I prefer to use quick link for reattaching .

Relatively easy to check whether your wheel is dished correctly without any tool just using a flat surface and two identical mugs or glasses and stacking coins underneath the hub. Check both sides to spot any gap between hub flange nut and the stack of coins.

From my limited experience when building a front, non-disc wheel with symmetrical hub dimensions and same spoke length at both sides, you only need to do minor adjustements in terms of dishing as long as spoke tension at both sides is fairly equal.

Done! ;-)

Pit stop on the Tour de France 1966 // Injured Cyclist Van den Bossche // Jaques Anquetil refreshing on Tour de France 1959.

While doing a back-up I have come accross these images I scanned few years ago from a collection of the sports magazine Le Miroir des Sports covering Tour de France editions of the 1960s. If you want higher resolution files for your personal use, click on the image and download from my Flickr account. Enjoy!

Remove the clamp bolt and prise open the stem with a flat tyre lever.

I think Syntace eccentric inserts allow you to align the rear wheel with the frame after welding. They come in o,5mm and 1mm increments and you place them on drive side to get rear wheel perfectly centered on the rear triangle in case there has been some distorsion when welding dropouts. Definitely not chain tensioning.

For the rear hub you don't need to remove the sealed bearings, only get the appropriate end cap for your frame rear spacing. You have options for QR, 142mm Thru Axle and Boost (148mm) Thru Axle.

Novatec has also a similar system with their 4 in 1 hub models that can be adapted to different frame/ fork specs only replacing the end caps.

Not possible, I am afraid.

The front hub can be changed from thru axle to QR but not the other way round.

Remove the QR cap and measure the inner diameter of the sealed bearing and you can see it's smaller than 12mm so no possibility to slide a thru axle.

I also found out the hard way and had to rebuild the front wheel.

Good tip. At our workshop we have a smaller lathe without safety hood. In order to operate the lathe we have to use a magnet on a particular spot on the motor side that 'tricks' the safety system as if the original hood were still there in place. If you press start button without the magnet, the lathe doesn't make any noise at all and appears to have no power.

In addition to that article, you can also check this:

Transmission Compatibility Datasheet

An open Google docs with loads of information if you are planning to do some gearing experiments.

Nope. That's a Finna Landscape frame bag customised with some Surly patches. It fits very well, indeed, but quality is relatively poor; after less than one year the fabric is starting to rip at the top from pulling zipper with the bag slightly over-stuffed. Fortunately I purchased it quite cheap but would not recommend, even less at RRP.

Looking now for a replacement. I haven't found so far any good quality, off the peg framebags with a close fit for the Krampus so most probably will go custom and order this model from Kasy Bags* with upper roll top closure.

*Edit: Review of my experience with Kasybags after ordering a custom frame bag. Quality and craftmanship is fine but not happy with the results in terms of sizing. I provided the required measurements of the inside of the main triangle. These were the same measurements of my previous frame bag which has a great fit but rather poor quality. I expected the new frame bag to fit snuggly within the 1.5-2.5 cm margin of error they indicate for all custom items. Not at all. The seat-tube length was 5 cm shorter than measurement provided thus leaving a relatively big gap next to the bottom bracket which from my point of view is not acceptable for custom ordered bag. Their reply was that they substract 5 cm to the indicated seat-tube lenght to make sure the frame bag doesn't interfere with cranks and pedals. ???? So I have ended up with a 'custom' bag with in terms of sizing is very similar to other off-the-peg frame bags like Ortlieb which I had considered buying before but didn't do it as I wanted to maximise available space on the relatively small main triangle of the bike.

Couple of pics of my Surly Krampus frameset purchased March last year: certainly it isn't the livelier frame I have ridden but good enough for its intended use. First pic in current setup for winter one-day rides with riser bars, second pic full bike-packing mode with Jones Loops handlebar. So far happy with it and looking forward to do more trips next year.

Not many options available as you need short-pull brake levers.

Shimano offers some flat brake levers for its low end road groupsets like Sora and Claris. The R550 that @Lolo recommends are best option without breaking the bank.

If looking for something fancier (and much more expensive), then it's Paul Comps Love levers .

On any case I will advise installation with good compression-less housing if you don't want to end up wit a terrible spongy feeling on the levers and little braking power.

I think the insert is B4010 for this type of dropouts. Two different finishes black anodised or silver.

https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/dr4010-rohloff-iso-mount-for-10-mm-skewer-2618.html

However double check either with Soma or Paragon Machine Works before you buy. Perhaps try to see if you can source it directly from UK supplier like Ceeway.

You can fit that 29er wheelset but the supplied tyre 29x2.36" (60-622) is too wide for the Wolverine.

From my experience it's possible to fit up to 29x2.00" (50-622) without having to move the inserts to the rear of the dropout which is not recommended by the manufacturer as putting too much stress on the dropout area. I have found that 29x2.00" provides enough mud-clearance (not so much if using front derailleur) and the insert is just in the middle position of the dropout.

If you want to use a Rohloff hub I will also advise to get the Rohloff-specific left insert from Paragon Machine Works.

For wheels I have bought standard S hooks (steel) and then twisted one end 90 degrees while holding the other end on the vise. If you want to prevent scratches on the wheel, it's not bad idea to buy some clear plastic flexible tubing of appropriate diameter and slid it on end of the S hook where you are hanging the wheel. Haven't got any pics now but you get the idea.

Range of movement is the same as this is defined by the H and L stop screws. The cage is the main difference as I understand it; the inner plate (The one that pushes the chain from the smaller to the bigger ring) goes a bit lower than standard road FD, it's shorter for less flex and has slightly minor radius for smaller inner chain ring.

However, try first with your current FD as it'll probably work. Shimano indicates max tooth capacity of 14T for their FD but you may get along with bigger 16T gap.

IRD (Interlock Racing Design) has a sub-compact braze on front derailleur

https://www.interlocracing.com/shop/product/60110-ird-front-derailleur-sub-c-braze-on-2351?search=derailleur

I have used it with a VO Grand Cru crankset with similar chainring combo 46/30. The FD cage is quite stiff and up-shifting is fine considering the huge gap of 16T between chainrings.

I am based in Spain. Please send me PM and can give you price for bundle.

Also have these items that can be included with any order at no additional shipping costs.

• MKS CA-MX10 chain adjuster. Fits dropouts up to 8mm width. 10mm axle. Includes allen jey. New in original packaging. Price: 18 GBP / 20€

• Halo Track Sprockets: These are great value CNC machined sprockets for 1/8" chains available in the following configurations: ** 20T x 2** New in bag. **Price each: = 8GBP // 10€) **

• Miche Track Sprockets: Includes carrier, sprockets and lockring. For 1/8" chains available on the following configurations: 16T x 2 // 17T x 2 // 18T x 1 New. Price each: 5GBP / 5,50€

- Pace Sportwear Cycling Caps. These are 100% cotton caps with full elastic band made in USA. Good quality caps ideal to wear under your helmet in mild / cold weather. These are new with some dust from storage. Available in following models: ** Sugino Red x 1** Price: 6GBP // 8€

- Sugino Steel Lockring: New in original bag: Price: 8 GBP // 10€ (Half price if purchased with Día-Compe Hubs) SOLD

- Shimano Dura-Ace Sprocket: 16T 1/8". New without box. Price 10 GBP // 12€ SOLD

More pics can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/fast_eddie_13/albums/72157714502719567

PLEASE NOTE: To send any of these items recorded delivery doesn't make much sense money wise. Perhaps if you are interested in various items, I will consider posting but original idea is to combine them with items on sale on the first post of this thread.

FS: *** ALL SOLD***

As part of on-going clearout from my workshop I have following parts for sale:

• TA Specialites Alize Track Chainrings: For 1/8" chains and 130 BCD cranks. Available in the following configurations: ** 50T x 3 // 49T x 2** Color Silver. New in original box. Price each: 16 GBP // 17,50€

• Phil Wood Lockring Tool and Lockring. You can install / remove your lockring with a chain whip or even with the very chain of your bike. Supplied Phil Wood lockring that has seen some use but continues to work perfectly. Used. Price 37 GBP // 40€

• Dia Compe Gran Compe Track Hubs 32H Fixed-Fixed. Sealed bearings. Cromed steel axel and Nuts. NOTE: The red anodising is not identical for both hubs, slightly mismatched. Otherwise they are just as new. Price: 35 GBP // 39€

- Dia-Compe Low Flange Track Hubs: 32H Fixed-Fixed. Sealed bearings. Cromed steel axel with aluminium nut. New in original box. Price: 70 GBP // 80€ SOLD

- Surly High Flange Hubs: 32H Fixed-Fixed. Sealed Bearings. Long steel axel to accommodate up to 135mm rear frame spacing. It can be cut down if required. Includes Surly 19T 3/32" sprocket and locking. New without box. Price 35 GBP // 40€ SOLD

- Dia-Compe Front Brake for non-drilled Fork: Obviously not to be used on the velodrome but handy for emergency stops if you like to ride on the road / around town with your track bike. New in the box. Supplied with the three types of adaptors for all fork blades: round, oval and aero. Price 30 GBP // 35€ SOLD

All pics can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/fast_eddie_13/albums/72157714502719567

Please Dibs to be followed by PM so I can keep track of who is interested in what item. I charge shipping at cost with a flat rate for UK / Central Europe: 11 GBP / 13€. Recorded delivery. Shipping costs to Scandinavia / Eastern Europe may vary. So that's the shipping cost for the fist and subsequent items you want to purchase. Any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Payment via Paypal. Donation to forum once most of the sale is completed.

Check also my other sales thread. Open to offers if you want several items.