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BAM! Hi! I'm in a meeting, but here is a quick reply :)
The AD305 is just a 'dumb' port converter, it won't make 11-speed derailleurs work with 12-speed shifters, unfortunately.
There is a 12-speed MTB Di2 rear derailleur, but it's e-bike only. It doesn't have the wireless or junction A functionality like the other 12-speed di2 derailleurs do... unfortunately.
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Here it is!
https://patents.justia.com/patent/11685470Interesting (I thought): the system lets you select a cassette... 9 speed, 10-speed... or 11-speed or more.
(according to the images, I use pat2pdf to get the PDF with images).And it seems there's also a wireless-but-with-mechanical-cable system, just like Archer.
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Cheat Sheets are done! Finally, hah!
There's a page on them here, but you can also use this link to the main zip file (with all 3 cheat sheets).
https://assets.bettershifting.com/cheat-sheets/all-di2-cheat-sheets.zip
Feel free to edit them and move things around, and put your own logo at the top right if you feel like it. The only thing I ask is that you leave the QR codes / site links intact :)
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Sort of... I'll probably change the text, but yeah.. it depends on the model.
6870 / 9070 have an electronic top limit as well as 2 bolts, and you shift to big-big to adjust that, yes.
Newer derailleurs don't have a low limit bolt, and that limit is set electronically by shifting to small-big.... and these also have the big-big electric limit.
(12sp ultegra/da FDs don't have limit bolts at all)Derailleur adjustment is so 'complex' that I decided to put the actual how-to on pages, and only show how to get into adjustment mode on the 'cheat sheet' - hence the QR code/link.
There's probably room to talk about the different modes in the A3-sized version of the cheat sheet though!
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Thanks guys!
Yeah... there's "a bit" of work involved every evening, once the kids go to bed ;-)
Currently working on this "Cheat Sheet".
The 10/11-sp version is sort of done... I'll make the 12-speed version, then double check the 11-speed one... and then make them pretty.And make all the relevant links/pages on the site.
And fix the QR codes.
And also make an A3 version.
And a greyscale version.... ;-) -
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Yeah... like others have said, if possible I'd also route the wires through the handlebar (internally). I have never used holes near the drops :).
(Easton EC70 Aero, Pro Vibe Aero)On my own 11-speed bike I didn't use the Y-splitter either. You lose some flexibility and one e-tube port... but it looks better than having that y-splitter/JC200/WU111 dangle in front of the head tube (on my bike).
That long wire is drawn above the handlebar, but it's all internal:
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Thanks - that sort of thing was my guess. Will maybe dismantle for the fun of it.
Annoying as can only justify replacing it with ultegra which doesn't look nearly as nice.There's a guy in the UK that repairs front derailleurs and rear derailleurs. He can probably tell you whether or not it can be fixed.
His name is Pawel Niewiadomy (https://www.instagram.com/paweln83). I've had more luck contacting him on facebook though. He also posts in the 'Shimano Di2 Forum' group on facebook (not my group, but I am a moderator): https://www.facebook.com/groups/shimanodi2
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Thanks! :)
Yeah, I'm just one guy - and cycling isn't my day job :).
I started the site because I tried to build a Di2 bike and couldn't easily find Shimano information/tutorials. Besides the dealer manuals there was only Carlton Bale's page (https://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/).
It's a great resource, but it's just one page.So yeah... I started to decipher Shimano's manuals and translate them into a bit more human readable formats... and things took off from there.
I work on the site every evening. Sometimes more than others, but the goal is to make it that 1% better every day.It took me a while to figure this out, but my goal with the site/instagram isn't to make money, and I'm not trying to turn that into my main source of income. That allows me to focus on actually helping people and I don't have to post things like "These five things Shimano doesn't want you to know!!1?1". Sure, there are some affiliate links on the site, but they're not all over the place . No ads either, and there never will be :).
Shimano (EU) and PRO do help out - I have some great contacts and they gave me access to their TEC platform. In the past, Shimano has sent me parts (RD-R8050/DA cassette/FC-R9100-P, rotors, etc.) and let me take home a Wilier Filante SLR with 12sp DA and their C50 wheels (for ~5-6 weeks).
I'm trying to get my hands on a 105 Di2 bike, because that'd be fun. Also interested in their e-MTB "free shift" and "auto shift", but when I visited Shimano EU last month they only had three e-MTB demo bikes - and all were out at dealers/conferences/etc.
At the moment I'm taking apart a (broken) RD-R8150, working on the Di2 'cheat sheet', and will install 12sp Ultegra on my bike next month.
Hi! Ask me anything :)
(and Hi Swedeee! I've seen you before, but don't remember where:)) -
It shouldn’t… I went three months without charging (also not a whole lot of riding, but it should hardly lose any charge).
First thing I’d do is fully charge the battery, then disconnect it (be sure to place a dummy plug in the middle port!) and then check the battery charge level in 2-3 days. If it’s not still at 95-100%, the battery is probably faulty (warranty).