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Funny you should say that, we have one set of Shimano that are really good and another set that are wank and I swear they are slightly different designs. I put it down to people using them where they should have been using mini bolt cutters (I’ve worked with savages that cut cables with flush cuts and shit like that) but maybe there’s more to it.
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It’s the classic cable cutter design though innit? Snap-on spanners look like and do the same thing a Draper spanners. I have used a lot of different ones and I prefer Felco. They cut better, last longer, feel nicer imo. We have a bad tool habit at the shop so we have quite a lot of tools that we don’t really need.
At home I have:
Felco C7
WurthAt the shop we have:
Felco C7
Wurth
Knipex 95 61 190
Knipex 95 62 190 (these are new and I forgot about them, they are a definite improvement on 95 61 190)
Park CN-10
Shimano TL-CT12
Unior
Fat Spanner (of course)And probably some CK and other ones like that.
And they all do a good job of cutting cables. If you’re not using them all day everyday I don’t think you’d be disappointed by any of them. But the Felco and Knipex are the workhorses, they have 1000s of miles on them and are still going strong. I don’t like the action and feel of Knipex 95 61 190 but I think ours will still be cutting cables when I can’t anymore.
So that’s my piece. I kind of regret getting involved now, sorry.
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I kind of get why everybody always goes reaching too much = shorter stem but it’s rarely the issue with fit. Obviously hard to say exactly what an issue might be from a picture of a bike but anyway.
Saddle position is always first (height, set back, angle). If this is not right there’s no point messing with anything else. Assuming it’s too low and too far back (it almost always is), a in-line seatpost and swapping that terrible saddle for something that supports you might help with weight on your hands.
An obvious front end culprit before stem is that handlebar. They knew some stuff in the 90s but how to fit a bike wasn’t one of them. I bet it’s like 48mm wide too. Get a modern, compact handlebar that lets you put the hoods in the right position, where you can reach them. Get the right width, get somebody to measure you for it.
Agree with everybody about wider tires and lower pressure.
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FS: Omnium Mini-Max WiFi, size medium, Diablo red.
I’ve got too many bikes that I don’t use often enough so I’m going to try to move some on. I’ve had this Omnium for about 6 months. It rides great and can be very useful but I’ve come to the realisation that I don’t really need a cargo bike.
It is built with Deore 12 speed and a bunch of other decent parts. Front wheel is a BSD NASA BMX rim laced to a Hope Pro 4 hub with Tall Order double butted spokes. Rear wheel was bought complete from Hope - a Fortus 26 rim (refers to internal width, not wheel size, it is a 29” wheel) laced to a Pro 4 hub with Sapim Race spokes.
Full build list:
Frameset: Omnium Mini-Max WiFi
Headsets: Omnium
Stem: Bontrager
Handlebar: Bontrager Comp
Grips: BSD Leezus Handles
Brakes: Shimano SLX 7100 w/ Ice-Tec pads and rotors
Shifter: Shimano Deore 6100
Seat: Bontrager Verse Elite
Seat post: Brand-X
Seat clamp: Omnium
Cranks: SRAM S300
Chainring: Garbaruk
Bottom bracket: SRAM GXP
Chain: Shimano Deore 6100
Cassette: Shimano Deore 6100
Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore 6100
Front hub: Hope Pro 4
Front rim: BSD NASA
Front tyre: Odyssey Path Pro
Rear wheel: Hope Fortus 26
Rear tyre: Schwalbe Big Apple
Mudguards: Omnium
Kickstand: Ursus Jumbo (I also have an unused Omnium Cargo kickstand that is included)Wheels on the front and leopard print bag are not included. I’d also like to keep the pedals. I can sort you with some different ones if you want to ride away. Sorry for crap pics, I am the king of bad lighting.
Looking for £1600 collected. I am up north near Leeds so sorry if that’s an issue. I don’t want to post because of size and more importantly I can’t be arsed to take it apart and package it. I’m open to meeting somewhere depending on how far.
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Keep looking at this so PM’d you.
Think it is a Riot because no integrated seat clamp or gyro tab holes but there were Mobs built like this too. Some (all?) of them had the model and size stamped on the BB shell.