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Yes I was running those pressures 15-20 years ago. Probably before you were born, too.
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Waste of time talking with you as you're set in your ways. Lower pressures result in lower rolling resistance and greater comfort = faster. Learn it.
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Seems to be a regular occurrence, given post quality.
Which lube do you use? Might be time to upgrade.
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FWIW I weigh ~68kg and these 30mm tyres feel about right around 70-75psi for me.
That is a crazy pressure range for a 30mm tyre. I have run 30mm Challenge Strada Bianca at 37F, 40R. I now run the 36mm version even lower.
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Clive James? Clinton Jefferson? Claw Job? Crabapple Jelly? Crumpled Jacket? My money is on crabapple jelly. Delicious crabapple jelly.
Circle Jerk...
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It's a cool paint yes : )ting with a 'greater than' denote quoted text
Sorry, but that paint is not 'cool' at all.
It is superb.
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Something Tasty
Most people seem to be able manage it. Don't think it's as difficult as you're making out really and certainly not rocket science!
Correct, Einstein. However, I couldn't manage it at the time (server side errors, not mine). I am not some technological dilettante. Your comment is as about as useful as a glass door on a toilet.
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As per title, 36H black hubs. The modern style. Not remotely interested in 32H. 36H only.
For single hubs, preference is for rear hubs.
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I'd post something tasty but the forum software seems to be unable to cope with a simple attached image.
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Again, are they sold or covered in dust?
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What the chainline is before the chain enters the cassette is important. This is restricted to the upper cage pulley. One only needs concern oneself with the immediate paths, not the irrelevant ones. A bent cage does not preclude spectacular shifting. It simply provides an opportunity to hinder it.
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No longer needed: 172.5mm Triple crankset (Power Torque) - part number FC-ATS093.
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No, I do not. I am also fully aware the extreme defensiveness going on in this thread regarding bike mechanic competence. So, I'll leave you all to argue about how difficult bicycle fixin' is amongst yourselves. I don't need to waste a moment more of my my time while that particular CJ is going on.
Out.
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Almost impossible for it to be the hub or wheel. Sounds like a poorly made fork. Simply not stiff enough. I imagine the handling at the front is pretty poor and the alleged flex would explain why.
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No anger at all, but there are a lot of 'real mechanics' for people to be angry at.
Maintaining bicycles is not rocket science, despite what many would like to believe.
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Until you fuck up, then a real mechanic will have to clean your mess and put up with your distrust, because of course you know better.
A lot of so called 'real mechanics' are similarly insecure and feel the need to lash out to protect their self perceived worth.. Which shop do you work at?
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Bike mechanics ... [t]hey’re unbearable.
Unfortunately, IME often incompetent and not to be trusted with tools. Tool up and DIY. It's the only way to ensure the job is done the right way.
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Damn. I thought it looked a fraction too big. It is.
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some free hubs have a C clip holding in the deepest bearing. You’ll want to punch out the most outboard bearing first, remove any spacers, and see if there’s a clip.
Campagnolo being a notable culprit. Only in the last few years have they succumbed to pressure and put a proper circlip in that spot. Prior to that there was a mutterfickin' snap ring that was a practiced art to remove.
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What is the C-C length of the top tube and the length of the head tube?
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That makes more sense. This is one occasion when availing yourself of the test saddle program with SMP would be wise. They make so many models with many different widths and they are all downright expensive.
I use carbon rail Composits on my full size bikes, and these have no padding whatsoever. The carbon rails do provide a fraction of give and shock dampening. I like them immensely. However, I do use Santini knicks with gel core chamois'. That said, I have occasionally ridden those same bikes upon the Composit with no knicks at all and I found it tolerable; but the distances were not great and the roads were smooth.
My Brompton runs a steel rail Stratos and that is specifically because I'm not in bike gear when riding it. It's absolutely fine in a pair of jeans. Think of the thick, heavy seams in the crotch. As a result, I think a Stratos is far too padded for someone in a decent pair of knicks with a good chamois but it does sound like you may need more help than I do there.
Again, the test saddle program is your best bet. A WTB after you know which one works.
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If you've used an Adamo and still get perineum pain then an SMP is not going to fix it.
Saddle position and knicks. Santini with C3 pad is hard to beat.
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Looking for NOS or nearly indistinguishable from NOS. Might consider lesser condition...
Athena 11:
Rear derailleur - absolutely must, without question, be the 2010 model with the 'elegant 11' logo - part number RD10-AT1.
172.5mm Ultra Torque cranks. 50-34 or 53-39 - part numbers FC10-AT6xx.
Mid cage for RD (i.e. for the triple) - part number RD-AT302S.
RD outer plate - part number RD-AT020 (this will have the 'elegant 11' logo).
Dual pivot brakes F+R - part numbers - F: BR11-ATF, R: BR11-ATDPR).
50T XPSS chainring - part number FC-AT550
34T EVO chainring - part number FC-AT234
Brake blades (levers) - part numbers EC-AT647 & EC-AT648.172.5mm Triple crankset (Power Torque) - part number FC-ATS093.
Record 10:
36H 10s oversize hubset or 36H 10S oversize rear hub only. (Will also consider a newer black 36H rear hub or hubset.)
36H 10s oversize rear hub shell - part number FH-RE02432H 10s oversize hubset or 32H 10S oversize rear hub only.
32H 10s oversize rear hub shell - part number FH-RE02310s oversize rear hub bearing adjustment collar - part number FH-RE028
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Say what you like about me. I don't care. Your opinion of me means absolutely nothing to me.
Anyone running 70-75 PSI in a 30mm tyre needs their head read. It's a ridiculous pressure for that tyre size.
That said, don't let me stop you from any continued communal back slapping and CJ activities.