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Rear puncture with torn sidewall from mudguard bracket rubbing with 20km to go to a training course I really needed to get to. Ripped the DIY damp proof course mud flap off the mudguard to make a tyre boot. Got me there and back.

You could even clamp the pads down on the rotor then use the bedding/stretching of the cable to give you some clearance by pulling the lever as hard as you can.

In my experience with BB7s this would make the braking force worse. The lever arm on the caliper only has so much travel before the length of the lever arm is reduced, thus reducing braking power. This is the fundamental problem with BB5s where using a cable length adjuster to adjust for pad wear ends up reducing mechanical advantage at the brake.

With BB7s I just pull the cable tight, with the lever arm in the fully rested position and clamp the cable. I never touch this again, you want the full leverage throughout the brake lever travel. Then adjust pads.

How close are the pads to the rotor? With BB7s they need to be just not touching. One pad at a time, I start with the more awkward inner one, wind the pad adjuster in while spinning the wheel until the pad rubs, then rotate it back one notch. Do the same for the other pad. Pull the lever hard and check again for rubbing. Sometimes I have to put up with some rubbing to achieve satisfactory braking.

Also worth making sure your cable outers are terminated nice and square with a file or grinder to minimise losses

Just used it and it worked fine. A bit awkward to get the bearing off the tool afterwards but suspect that will be similar for most expander type tools.

Did you buy this one or the one you posted a picture of? Looks like the one you posted needs some additional parts.

EDIT: looks like you've got it sorted, left the above paragraph in as it might help someone else

I've just bought a "bearing pro tools" one for 30mm. I'm in Bristol, welcome to borrow it once I've used today or tomorrow. Doesn't need a lip.

https://www.bearingprotools.com/products/bottom-bracket-bearing-puller-expanding-type

Sure. Will pm.

Got a chunky wide rimmed wheel with unbranded 6 bolt QR hub although rim has braking surface. It is about 33mm external so you might need to check it would fit between the brakes. Free with a choice of Schwalbe city jet, or some 1.9" ish tyres with a solid central tread and some side knobs.

Enjoyed it today - first race of the year for me. Was getting hungry before the start because of the delay but did alright. Hope the 2 injured V50 riders are ok.

Got these two in Bristol, are these easels? .Bare wood one has slightly bent legs so is awkward to extend but looks like it's oak. Other one works ok. Free to anyone.

I've patched inside a couple of times with good results after large woodscrew punctures. Trim the plug flush, clean up really thoroughly and glue in a thick inner tube patch or tyre boot.

If it comes to posting I'd take either 1. or 2. and either J. or Q.

Stainless steel 110bcd chainring 39t £10 per chainring

Are these ~3mm thick (for 1/8" chain) or ~2mm thick (for 3/32" chain)?

Interesting thanks, that is pretty much what I've run for a mixed surface day ride (40x17 or 65 gear inches), albiet on easier terrain.

What sort of gear do you run for the 3 peaks? Seems like it would be a big compromise with the off road climbs and the road sections where group riding is beneficial. Obviously didn't slow you down too much though!

I'll take the C15 please. Will pm.

I usually have at least a third of the plot brassicas, plus some leeks and parsnips. Winter veg is my favourite to grow as you can harvest when you want to eat it, rather than having a summer glut.

This year trying to do more second cropping so have savoy cabbage, turnips, and green mustard in where various things have finished, plus winter spinnach, spring onions, spring cabbage, claytonia, and endives in trays nearly ready to be planted out. Plot should be about 3/4 full during the winter if all goes to plan this year.

I use a blue pipe arch approx. every metre, no ridge support required, although I do find the end hoops can bend inwards when you weigh down the ends of the netting. I have 20mm, 25mm, and 32mm pipe. The 20mm is too flexible, the 25mm is OK, the 32mm is great and I use that for the end hoops to stop them bending inwards. Usually just push the ends in the ground but I'm doing no dig now so that is harder; might try looking out for some rebar. I tried bamboo canes but they just snap off eventually leaving a bit stuck in the end of the pipe.

There are often short lengths of 'blue pipe' on marketplace or gumtree left over from building works.

Suspicious looking advert for a Temple Adventure Disc (I think) in London:
https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/808902974088912/

Thanks, hopefully got a pair on the way.

Lifted a seriously disappointing crop of garlic,

Could be "white rot". We have it and I have to harvest the garlic early (and small) so they don't rot. Doesn't seem to affect the leeks in our case though.

On strimmers, I gave up using one 6 years ago in favour of a grass hook/sickle and haven't looked back. I think it is almost as quick as a decent strimmer and the cut material is easier to rake up to compost. Also fits in a pannier, doesn't need petrol, and isn't noisy (something I only really noticed after having kids and taking them up to the plot only for someone to start up a petrol strimmer next door for an hour)

Interested in love/hate. Where are you?

Do't recall many options with steel frame and carbon fork. This 531 Graham Weigh looks good: https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=156472 (Note no bottle cage bosses)

Frame sizes on the completes might help with sale.

Don't know whether to laugh or cry:

I used a Surly cassette cog which has a wider base than a cog in a cassette to reduce gouging of the freehub. Gusset do one too.
You can then use a conversion kit which comes with spacers and a lockring; the kits with some thin spacers being the best as you can get the chainline right. If you have old cassettes you can rip them apart to get spacers and use a lockring from a cassette instead of buying a kit. I think you're best with a lockring from a cassette with a 12T smallest sprocket as it is larger.