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try v3 of the etube software to update the battery and that normally fixes it.

Tried a lot of stuff. Single narrow wide rings have generally been ok. Seen quite a few issues with chainsets & rings. One of which is the insistence that everything is posted in yellow jiffy bag se I've receive bent teeth but also the pickup pins on 2x stuff, particularly one piece CNC double rings have been poor and I've had to get a file out here and there. Cassettes are largely junk, ztto/sunX/zrace in any speed. The QC isn't there and sellers regularly ship a badly made one. Some of the lock rings are turd but that's not a big issue. I typically find you'll always get a noise in your drivetrain because of some flaw which takes diligence to spot and then is hard to rectify because it'll be in the middle of a pinned cluster. In short most of it is a generation behind with shifting quality because the designs of those elements are a bit crude. For example if you buy one of the Ali x groupsets like Sensah AND cheap cassette/rings.. then you're in for a crappy time. If youre mixing in a Shimano cassette or using a Shimano groupset with a zrace cassette, it will function but be nowhere near R8000 reliable.

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there are alan alans that have no alan pantos be it lower headtube lug, fork crown or rear stay inserts.

they are in fact fairly rubbish. Ive had 2 go at the overlap on the tube and others have reported similar.

if you have undone the two pinch bolts then the plastic tension bolt shouldnt be that tight, there are many things that will undo it. I often use a plastic tyre lever as i have one thats the exact width of the splines but ive been known to use a load of allen keys side by side, a blunt dinner knife out the cutlery draw or big spoon handle.. just jam something in there and see if it turns, even an old usb plug or summin.

We've sent 5 cranks to Madison in the last 3 weeks. Mine were first sent and first back.

But did get LH which in the original wording was unclear and chainring matches.

No 53/39 option

Got my new one into the shop today.

In addition to sineu there are other velodromes in Mallorca, or were. although derelict it's still interesting to go and have a look. The one in algaida isn't too hard to find and looks fairly similar to Warsaw's design.

nothing received

add in the notes that customer thinks it makes a noise or feels wonky? Surely they have to give benefit of doubt rather than return it? All things we voiced to the Madison rep...

I work in a bike shop and we've seen a fair few for inspection the last couple of weeks, including two non listed codes which have the same issue. I personally have broken 3 in the last couple of years - price point of chainrings meant i bought a new 6800 and then a new R8000. They failed in reverse order with the R8000 lasting the least time and then swapping back to the old units which eventually failed too. I only kept the last one annoyingly. All three had the same failure mode - RH crank, slight click, pedal went a bit wonky feeling followed by inspecting it and seeing delam of the rear plate or hairline crack just bove the serial number area. The only other thing to add is that Miche shouldnt be saved from scrutiny as theres a certain crank of theirs that fails rather a lot too.

I do repairs. Based in Colchester. Several pro level customers. I suspect that if it involves fabricating a seatpost it may well cost a fair bit. I have extended seatposts. I would need more to go on really/pictures etc to be able to give a rough quote. Storck have always been pretty helpful when i've contacted them for logos/uci decals etc so you never know.. Regards

The frame insert is a one screw affair with means it's not terribly secure anyway but coupled with the through axle it struggles to engage threads reliably and ends up cross threading or being impossible to line up etc and I've seen at least 3 mullered ones where both axle and dropout are screwed. It also doesn't really do its job of breaking on a crash very well and instead the mech tends to die- granted it's not unique in that. You can buy aftermarket CNC hangers that fit better but the last one I tried had too much ano on the threads so it had to be tapped straight away to be useable.

topstone has a poorly designed rear thru axle dropout, seen countless problems with them

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/campagnolo-11-speed-ergo-power-shift-shifter-body-potenza-ec-po100-po101 if all else fails this is a good way to a fix, swap the brake lever blade and rubber hood over

they have a bit of a design flaw with regard to the RH axle cap being too tight when fully done up and yet it comes undone when anything less than. The alloy axles are very soft. Easy to damage. I think that when the inner freehub brearing develops play the freehub body can bottom out in the hub shell despite the sleeved washer. The end cap acts directly on the bearings inner race and possibly there the rubber seal in contact too. im pretty sure i fixed mine by putting an additional thin copper washer in there, possibly inside the end cap so it was impossible for it to bind although it increased the width .5mm ish. you can run without the rubber seal and instead put some grease in the end of the freehub to keep water out.

I was watching the Virgin Orbit rocket launch and then Grant Shapps started getting in on the PR stunt and turned it into the vomit comet

you can get the inner cage, i believe the outer is permanently attached to the derailleur and not replaceable. https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/spare-parts/spare-parts-catalog/2021-sram-spare-parts-catalog.pdf there are pdfs on sram site with all the parts numbers.

the VAR tool is the best for this as the load is spread by a metal C shape. Ive lost count of how many of those plastic park things ive seen break. Make sure the bolt washer hasnt been left behind in the crank when removing the bolt too, as the tools dont work then. There really arent a lot of options given the tight space. Have the tips of the puller legs started to bend out of shape yet? cut an elongted C out of an old compact disc - its quite sturdy material. fit the puller without the plastic cradle. If you have access to another clamp then clamp the 2 legs tight so theres no chance of them slipping.

So for those wondering if BC is the only way to race? totally not.. my club ran a 26 week series of TLI races every tues eve at Colchester Northern Gateway, many of the competitors used to ride at North Weald but alas that is no longer running. We also Ran BMCR races. These can all be accessed through RiderHQ where you will find other clubs also promoting non BC racing across the country. A TLI license can also be used abroad to enter some races. Its far cheaper to run, cheaper for membership, insures you, allows a total mix of categories/sexes, allows you to change the track direction or race format without a load of extra work, spares you hat wearing speeches pre race from comissaires etc literally the only downside is the points system but on the plus side riders are a little bit less heroic and more respectful on the final lap.

Negotiate with seller because it is damaged ultimately. I've repaired a few like this, occasionally i have fully bridged the original slot and moved the compression slot to the front. Its good news if its not full depth to a degree but the crack may creep over time.

done a fair few of those, remove rivnut/repair surface/replace rivnut jobs