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i have a 48 and 52 tooth chain ring arriving in the next couple of weeks.. this should be interesting

if anybody is curious on the cost of the bike and how much money i've saved vs getting the train to work, I've placed all of the info below

bike cost - €340
mid drive kit €420 thats including import duty and shipping into Germany
battery & charger - €100 aprox

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total = €860

now here is the interesting bit

distance to work and back - 24Km
return train ticket - €5,60 per day
= €28 per week / €112 per month / €1344 per year!

my bike battery will last for around 30 Km's - costs approximately 5 cents in electricity to fully charge.. let break down the costs and savings over a period of 1 year

return trip to work by bike = 5 cents per day
25 cents per week / €1 per month / €12 per year!!

that's a saving of €5,55 per day
€111 per month
€1332 per year.

in just under 8 months from now, the bike would have fully paid for itself :D

in the 4 months after, the bike will save me a further €444!

they only produce it for the left side, i think if i really really wanted to i could crack open up the unit and turn the LCD screen upside down and then mount it on the right hand side.. i'm pretty happy with it being on the left tho.

Hi Wez

it sure is!

the battery has a total weight of 1.8Kg so its not much. my new battery will be around 1.4Kg which should be ready by the end of the month.

i will be looking at purchasing a new wheel set soon, right now im just getting ready to install my magura hs33 urban hydraulic rim brakes, hopefully will have that done this weekend!

the left handed accelerator is in fact an LCD which displays battery level, speed, trip meter, and the level of assistance. the twist action just lets you switch between levels of assist ranging from 1-4..

kind of like changing gear with the twist type gear selector but in this case is changes the level of assist

planning on putting an 18650 type battery together at the end of the month

battery box for now

18.5v 5ah x 2

charge setup.. only temporary

back pack battery

i have a good question for you guys, do you know of any offset 110 5 hole chain rings at all?

could do with going up a few teeth

whats the difference between tubular and normal wheel? sorry my bike knowledge is a little behind.

Ah nice thanks!

what do you think about these ones?
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPGIPIK28/gipiemme-pista-k28-700c-tubular-wheelset

Tyre pressure was pretty low when i taken the picture, they are fine now tho

to be honest i can't fault them, i actually really like them
the rolling resistance is next to nothing.. bike seems to roll forever.

had them for over a year, never slipped or tipped as of yet..

110% agreed.. any wheels to recommend? i would like to keep a little bit of a deep dish, maybe 20-30mm maximum

yer sure, i will probably take some tonight.

i might just make another video showing the bike in more detail

turns out that the freewheel at the crank/chain ring will work with a fixed gear at the rear.. the chain will always be turning but the pedals will stay still.. there is a slight form of friction coming from the crank when the chain is turning it but its definitely not turning the actual motor, i'm just a little curious where the friction is coming from exactly.... might just be because the system is still new and not worn in just yet.

Jeremy Clarkson — 'Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.'

but correct, i need better brakes.. although i have solved this issue, its just currently in the post.

possibly yer!, i think my next step after improving the brakes will be to find some front folks with a caliper mount and a new set of wheels which will accept a disc upfront.

at this very moment in time im fully focused on reaching a higher top speed, due to my 16/44t gearing i'm limited to 40-45Kph and the motor turns off at this speed due to me applying next to no force on the peddles (torque sensing mid drive)

i'm almost certain this motor can reach up to 55-60Kph with the correct gearing.. it has so much torque to offer which i just can't access with the current gearing!

hmmmmm, i will have to check later on.

another idea is to just use a small 12-14t fixed gear, the mid drive unit has a freewheeling chain ring / crank so i may still be able to freewheel, i need to confirm this later on this evening tho

how about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-BMX-free-hub-sprocket/dp/B009GIBNS0/ref=pd_sbs_468_39?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=P2N14BD6QM8KB915S374

FW1213 Threads onto metric (small) side of flip flop hub

how about the freewheel spacers to bring the freewheel out a little ( 2-4mm )
i can't to find anything at all online about them.. every link take me to spacers for cassette type hubs

do they exist? :D

ah i see, thank you!

i will have to do some more research.. this may be tricky!

does a flip-flop hub have the same size thread on both sides?

a larger chain ring up front is not possible, even tho the chain ring is 110/5 hole the chain ring is offset by around 4-5mm.. a normal chain ring will push my chain line even further out of line :(

one more question..

where i can purchase singlespeed freewheel spacers? my chain line is not the best and i could do with moving the freewheel out by 2-3mm

the only spacers i can find are for cassette type hubs