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Just posted:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/368400/#comment16201354I'm 5'7" and this Dawes I'm selling sounds perfect if you're still looking. £150 but will take offers.
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Lovely old 80s/90s MTB, Reynolds 501 with 531 forks, no rust, frame is in really great nick with virtually no rusty spots. Components all in great condition, with a new-ish GRX BB, I have been told. It's currently running as a single speed, but with a 6 speed cassette and a derailleur available (included in price).
It's a small frame and would ideally fit someone between 5'5" and 5'10". Top tube length is 55cm.
Originally purchased from @sacredhart a few months back with great ambitions for a commuter conversion which sadly have been abandoned due to some life changes! All in all, sad to let this guy go, a really fun little bike which would make an ideal pub bike or commuter conversion.
£150 ONO, looking for a quick sale having been thoroughly mucked about by some potential buyers. The bike is in E17, but also happy to meet somewhere along the Victoria Line or the Liverpool Street-Chingford Overground branch.
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Thanks! Cassette reasoning can be found here: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/362747/
I personally really like it, but I can see why some don't...
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When we replaced the BB we were also retapping the bottle cage mounts and a lot of WD40 went through the downtube. All came out very orange and rusty... Certainly nothing feels to the extent of major/flaky rust though. It has been inside for the whole time I've owned it, I imagine that atmospheric moisture is enough to cause a thin coating of rust on the inner surface over 40 years (or thereabouts).
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I haven't treated the inside... Is there any use in using frame saver on an old frame? I got the impression that it was something you would only do when new, but would like to be proved wrong there. The BB shell cleaned up very nicely after some WD40 and brass brushing with minimal rust, but obviously impossible to know about the rest of the frame.
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@Five-Hats @kjlem Appreciate it and generally agree, just unsure about that ring around the BB shell, how long I can realistically leave it before it comes an issue. But maybe forever if well looked after...
@Fibreglass thanks! I am still glad to have that 46t cog tbh - originally had decided 42t but I will come to appreciate those extra teeth until my fitness improves significantly beyond current levels - my max aerobic intervals today tell me I have a ways to go. Thanks for the PTFE tip - will give it a go next time. Wrt the YBN chain, I bought it on Amazon actually, £33: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07T4HQJQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... Not a chain connoisseur by any means but seems to be doing a fine job so far, after stripping factory lube and waxing?
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@MisterMikkel as requested... Not sure when we go from "patina" to "rust", but opinions welcome. Mostly just chips, but the drive-side BB has enough rust that I couldn't remove any more than you can see.
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Hello! Nice - would love to see some photos!!
Changing the wheels to 700c will cause you issues with the existing canti brake reach/angle, predictably, as the rim is now in a different place. You won't be able to get the pad surfaces parallel or toed in against the 700c rim, so your braking performance will suffer. That said, I rode Claud like this for quite a while before changing out the cantis to something that allowed better alignment. It was a bit scary at times, especially in the rain. It was also hard to find new cantis that worked for this configuration - I'd recommend going with the same ones if you do, mutsj spent a lot of time trying to find the right ones, so will give the credit to him.