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Rims are clincher.

I wonder if it is worth dismantling the wheels, polishing the hubs up nicely and just selling the hubset. I have the same rims on my road bike and could use them as spares.

Hi everyone.
I just impulse bought a classic Swiss track bike built up in full campag. The bike has probably spent a several years on a hook at our local indoor track but was only ridden a handful of times. I was wondering what a reasonable asking price to quickly sell the complete group set (wheels, post, drivetrain, headset) and what might be a reasonable asking price for just the wheels and 165mm crankset if I were to keep everything else. Sheriff star C-record 32h hubs feel lovely, and there is no wear on the chain, ring (51) or cog (16) Rims are mavic open4cd, spokes are dull looking double butter DT, tied and soldered.
I bought the bike for the frame set, and spent money I shouldn’t have, so I would like to dig myself out of this hole quickly. I can ship anywhere in Europe or do collection in Geneva.
Thanks in advance for your opinion/advice. Regards,
James

Now that you mention it.. my genesis disc cross bike had front brake rub on a carbon fork. Is your TCX still using a QR front hub? My cross bike was the bike that convinced me that QR hubs and road discs were not cool. I sold it after a winter of constant fucking with my brakes (cx75 recall, my qr front hub shifted in the carbon dropout and general annoyance)

Yeah, disc brakes do kinda sound like the long term answer.. I just have the horrible feeling that if I buy a bike and two sets of wheels now it will all go the way of Betamax in a few years as axle standards evolve. And the issue of a racing double with short stays and a 135mm disc rear end. Does everyone just have shitty chainline?

I at first blamed my frame.. (the older model did have larger section chainstays and seatstays.) But if I am going to buy a new frame, I would want to have a better idea of what to look for (chainstay mount brake or seatstay mount? and would want to know if it will it rub with the wheels that I already own?)

If I could fix it by changing a rear wheel, that would be class. I just need to figure out what tubular wheel would be least likely to rub on the frame that I already own.

The pads are currently as far out as possible without loosing the ability to lock the wheel. I changed the cheapo brake housing for a DA9000 cable kit (with the polymer crap sanded off the clamped section) which slightly improved feel but didn't noticeably increase the maximum initial distance between the pads and rim. I thought about compressionless BMX brake housing, or running my hoods much higher on the bars to increase lever travel.. but haven't tried either yet.

I kinda wonder what the answer is for a pro like Kittel? He is both larger and dramatically stronger than me. Is his rear brake just rubbing constantly?

I figure there must be some people heavier than me on here who have figured this out.

I will try to make a shorter/more coherent version of the initial post later on and throw that up on the other thread.

thanks the the replies

I have a few questions about brake rub during seated efforts and how to prevent it. If anyone on this forum has the time/experience to shed some light on this I would be grateful for advice.

My questions:

-Does everyone on here over 80kg get a bit of brake rub during max seated efforts on a road bike?
-How significant are the losses due to this rubbing under load?
-Has anyone had this problem on a bike with a chainstay mounted brake?
-How do I prevent or minimise rub on my personal bike (without buying a different bike)?

Background articles:
http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/wheel/index.htm

Last week I went for a long ride with 40 odd people, most of whom were on wildly expensive bikes with deep section tubular wheels. The strongest guy there (maybe 75kg, Cervelo S5, DA, 808s) had audible and visible brake rub when climbing in the saddle. His brake was perfectly centred and the bite point seemed about average (I looked at a coffee stop) and he was riding at a low but reasonable cadence. I spent a bit of time sitting behind the guy and it got me wondering how significant the losses due to brake rub are. It seems nuts that someone has paid a small fortune for a super fast bike and wheels this still occurs. As the day went on we punched it up several small hills and I made a point of riding behind several other larger guys (One guy with ENVE smart set/BMC team machine, another guy on a pinarello with something deep, carbon, and Campy without too many spokes, and a third guy on 404s on an older Trek Madone and in all instances brake rub was audible (I did not closely examine the other bikes)

I am a heavy, mediocre cat 2 and I ride an Allez DSW in 58cm. it was a warranty replacement for an older Allez elite frame that broke at the drive side dropout. When the warranty frameset arrived I built it up with the old parts except for the front mech and a BB30 crank. The new bike was more comfortable, lighter and in every way more pleasing except for increased brake rub with every set of wheels I own (28 hole ultegra 6600/DT R460 db spokes, 32 hole DA 7700/reflex db spokes, 36 hole DA/open pro db spokes, 28 hole 7900/reflex CD 2.0 spokes. clinchers at ~110kgf drive side, reflex sets at a bit less) I run my brakes with the bite point pretty close to the bars and have 7800 sti and calipers. the centre of my pad contact is roughly 157 degrees from my contact patch. I was thinking of buying a mega stiff deep section wheel, but maybe that would actually make things worse?

The slowtwitch article claims that high spoke count and flexible rims prevents rub, but for me this has not been the case. There is a graph on the Damon Rinard arcticle about halfway down showing deflction in relation to rotation from the contact point for whole bunch of wheels. I couldn't find the key to the graph but did notice that the opposite side deflection near 157 degrees is not directly correlated to deflection at the contact point.

Even more questions:
-Despite modern frames and rims being more rigid, is this more of a problem than it used to be?
-Anyone on this forum bored enough at uni to do a project on it? Damon Rinard's crack at it was over 20 years ago.
-Would a QR rear hub with a massively rigid axle reduce dropout deflection and therefore reduce opposite side deflection? Maybe a 10mm Specialized Skraxle type thing inside a hollow oversized alu axle?

Thanks to anyone who has taken the time to read this, I would be grateful for any input or suggestions.

regards,
James

For sale: NOS Bradbury Racing Components suspension fork.

Spec:
-Brand new, never been mounted.
-1" threaded 230mm
-Axle to crown 393mm at full extension. maybe count on 8-10mm of sag
-weight 990g
-Stanchions are 1"
-Offset: kind of a pain to measure without table and v-block. rough guess >45mm
-Tyre clearance shown with a 22mm conti competition. I suspect a 24mm or 25mm tub would fit but don't have anything on hand to test. Definitely not going to take some of the more modern wide 27/28mm pave tyres.
-advertised travel: 1"
-actual travel with me pressing on it 18mm. this might increase with break in.
-Comes with strip down/service instructions and long 3/16" hex key. (only one box had this so it goes with the first fork sold.)
-feel suprisingly good, seals not dried out, not too much stiction.
-looks like we thought the future would look in 1994

I want to sell a couple of these for the shop I work at. The story is that these came with a lot of old tools and equipment from the Cilo factory when it shut down. It probably was supplied to a Cilo sponsored team who never used it. I have never ridden one of these forks, nor do I know anyone who has. According to the internets these were manufactured by Doug Bradbury of Manitou fame for use in Paris Roubaix and other classics, but the suspension for Paris-Roubaix fad died out before it caught on in the market. Could be cool for a retro Paris-Roubaix bike. £150 each plus postage or collection from Geneva, Switzerland.
Regards,
James

Good luck finding a group. Despite the relatively mild weather, not too many here ride road through the winter.

If you are determined to stick to the road, following the plateau along the foot of the Jura is always nice. Hard enough, but not so high that you freeze.
http://www.veloland.ch/fr/itineraires/route-050.html

Once it is warmer, my favorite loop is:
leave town via Grand Sacconex -> Collex-Bossy -> Versonnex -> Gex, over Col de la Faucille and on to Mijoux and the Val Valserine.
You follow the valley down through Confort in the direction of Bellgarde. You can either drop down into Bellgarde to get something to eat, or cut the corner at Lancrans and head past Fort L'Ecluse and take lovely back roads into town, or follow the base of the Jura before heading back in. The only hard bit is out of the way once you are over Faucille, and the valley road has a few big rings climbs to break up the descending and keep you warm as you gradually drop down towards Bellgarde. There is a really nice cafe in an old rail car in Confort with excellent food, good coffee, and Belgian beers. I dunno if they are open in the winter, but it is a perfect place for a mid ride break, and much cheaper than a decent meal in Geneva.

I will not be out on the road bike any time soon, but I hope the weather clears up a bit for the rest of your visit.

regards,
James

If the snow continues, this guy rents fat bikes:
https://www.facebook.com/bikeandbuddies/

If you have a wednesday night free, definitely check out the velodrome initiation. 166.66 meters, steep, slippery, and good fun. The initiation is pretty simple and just goes over the basics, but if you take to it they will turn you loose. Afterwards you can rent a bike and ride in some of the open public sessions, or buy a membership for the winter. If you speak don't speak much french, odds are that there will be at least one english speaker in any given initiation group to help translate. They may ask you for insurance info for accident/third party liability, so be sure you have that covered before you sign up. If you run KEOs, bring your shoes.

velodrome-geneve.ch