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Lately, I feel like it would get a lot of use. I've inadvertently gone up a size, otherwise I'd have worn my existing Gore jacket. I'm not always running with 'my' group, so I feel the cold more on the slower runs.
That LED spider looks interesting! Does it just hook over the shoulders, or connect under the arms as well?
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a jacket, erring on the side of waterproof, that's sufficiently visible and reflective for a club night on the road? Budget of up to £200ish.
Or am I better getting something inherently dark (e.g. Goretex dark-only colours) and supplementing it with something bright/shiny?
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Thanks. Since I've stopped gigging, I sold a load of pedals I had amassed over the years, and invested in a a few nice ones to cover the sounds I want to get at home. Just a couple more to get.
The Broadcast is a great pedal, both in looks and sound. They have been around a while, but I think a lot of people find they are both distinct and versatile enough for a spot on the board, hence so popular still.
As @Sparky says, the low gain side is a nice boost for the crunch coming from the RD. Flip the switch to the high gain side, and it's a really fun distortion with a gnarly fuzzy characteristic.
Muffroom -> Broadcast -> Revival is ticking all the boxes for me at the moment.
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I'm not sure if this is best asked here, or over in the Home DIY thread, but as there might be some cross over, I'll start here.
I've been building a new pedalboard over the last week or so. Oak, with a birch ply base and shelf.
I've got some Osmo for the oak, left over from when we had new doors fitted, but what about the ply? Osmo as well, or something else?
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How do I stop a flush pipe from leaking? It's a back to wall, cabinet, and cistern type set up. When I disassembled it, the pipe seemed a bit short, not extending in to the toilet as far as the ridge. I've replaced the pipe (now going in to the toilet as far as the ridge) and the seal cone thing that goes in to the toilet, but there is still a very slight seep from the cone.
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New screws seems to have sorted it!
It was quite satisfying, impact-driving them in, until my back had enough.
I think most of the problem was caused by the small screws someone had used to resecure the boards after some work had been done. Swapping those fixed the noise, but for good measure I went round and put a screw in at every nail point.
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That's good to know! This type of thing? (swapped link to Wickes one)
The house is late 1960s - early 1970s if that makes any difference. Lots of nails used where nowadays I'd expect and use a screw.
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I have this floor:
That is made of this stuff:
And it's a bit creaky. I've had a look, and it seems like it's the boards moving on the nails, rather than anything with the joists. A couple of tongues have been cut off by the electrician, but I can lit those easily and add any additional wood.
Does anyone have any ideas for the rest? A decent screw put in next to each existing nail?
The carpet is coming next Tuesday, so I have a few days to try things.
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I hadn't actually paid enough attention to realise the Weber was enamelled. Thanks for pointing that out. That does go some way to justifying the price difference and I wouldn't mind that feature. I basically want something that will cook like the Le Creuset stuff in the kitchen, but don't really want to turn all the orange pans black in the bbq!
@aggi thanks, Lodge stuff looks good too. Just need to decide between enamelled and non.
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Has anyone got a cast iron Big Green Egg dutch oven? I'd like something to use in my Weber kettle, but the BGE one is half the price of the Weber, but I haven't found much info on how they compare.
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I use a mini Weber chimney (this one) which is okay for 3-4 briquettes to get a smoke started, but I like the idea of lighting fun directly in the bbq to cut down faff.
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I get the same thing from our Tado. The thermostat is reading the correct temperature, it's just the app having this strange idea that every room needs to be at 21ºc to be comfortable.
Our heating is set to 19ºc, and the app has told me we are consistently 'cold' for the six or so months we've had it.
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Thanks. Something like this: https://mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-connectors/flexible-wc-connectors/wc-con8f18-btwc-short-90deg-back-wall-flexible-wc-connector
I guess the hose clamp method keeps it secure when pushing the toilet forward or backward.
I doubt the Victorian Plumbing furniture will last anywhere near 20 years, so no problems there!
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Can anyone help me work out what combination of parts I need to make this happen?
I've got some soil pipe to come off of the branch with, then I need to turn 90º, not a problem in itself, but also project about 170mm from the branch centre to clear the cabinet and reach the outer edge of the recessed pan spigot.
I've been staring at the McApline site for ages and I'm more confused than when I started.
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Cost-wise, our house works out about the same either way. It's definitely more comfortable when on all the time as there's often someone home each day. Our graph looks similar to your first, with the different shades of grey showing how the boiler is modulating output to maintain a temp, rather than running flat out all the time.
I ran a local trail race yesterday. The weather was awful, leaving the field who did turn up and start exchanging a few questioning glances as we all ran up a big, open hillside in a thunderstorm.
I had a lot of fun, and embraced the soaking and mud as good prep for the upcoming XC season which I'll be taking part in for the first time. Despite a 10k next weekend being my main focus and this just fitting in with training, I came away with 12th place overall which I was really happy about.
Now in a super busy work week where I'll struggle to get any miles in.