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It does but it's still too big.

@eskay Oh yeah of course. I was trying to think of something I could jam in there that wouldn't crush or deform, a nut would do the job.

Feels like I'm being super dumb but I haven't tinkered with old bikes for about 4 years and I feel like I've forgotten everything:

Removing a Campag Veloce square taper crank. I have this crank puller, black bit screws into the crank then I tighten the silver bit and the black cap should bear on the spindle to pull the crank right? The black cap should fit into the hole in the middle of the crank shouldn't it? The cap seems to be too big for the hole and it would bear on the larger silver bit at the base of the bore in the first pic which I assume would just end up with me stripping the threads and trapping the crank forever.

I googled crank pullers and they all look like they have the same size pusher. Someone please tell me what I'm missing.

For some reason my latest beans take up way more volume for the same weight. I usually drink YB espresso blend and get 18g comfortably in the portafilter but with the beans I got from my local place, I struggle to fit the portafilter in the machine with 16g in.

I’ve recently gone through a bag of old government Java that is really low acidity. Bought mine from Guntons of Colchester but it looks like a few different roasters do it. Really nice and quite earthy/spicy so a bit different to regular light roast espresso stuff but I enjoyed it.

I think all their logos are done in paint rather than decals, that’s how they are on my space horse. You’d have to get someone with a vinyl cutter to make you one.

Is that a gravelking? Mine did the same thing, the bubble got sealant inside it and made fart noises as I rode.

It dissolves coffee oils. Good for cleaning portafilters and things that get coffee running over them, doesn’t do anything for scale buildup though.

Do you have a pressurised portafilter or regular? With a regular one there's really no way around grinding your own beans with a grinder you can fine-tune. A small change in grind can have a big effect on extraction time.

Ordnance survey maps are the best way to tell. Dotted red line is footpath, dashed red is bridleway.

Yeah I know, that's the highest I can get the levers up the bars if I want to use the internal routing. I tried it with bars rotated forwards more but the shifters ended up pointing down too much. As it is, the tops of the hoods are perfectly flat and the drops are still comfy like that so it works fine for me.

@doug1e Possibly. He's not a business, just a mate that makes them in his spare time. Also based in the US so might not be that economical but he'll be able to sort something out for you if you message him on IG https://www.instagram.com/y3mbl/

A few tweaks for the summer. New saddle bag made by a friend, new tape, bottle cages and tyres. Fit tweaked slightly meaning I should probably get the steerer cut again, also wouldn't mind a new seatpost since this one weighs more than most alu posts.

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/bik/d/silver-spring-spicer-singlespeed/7120408311.html

https://twitter.com/vladadraws/status/1264355635434418177/photo/1

i can read arabic and i can safely tell you that these translations are so hilarious that i died, went to heaven, and revived, for each line. its such an amazing mess i dont even know where to start explaining why this heroic attempt at cultural exchange has failed so beautifully
heres a gem:
"shakshooka" is a poached egg dish in a tomato sauce with a bunch of herbs
but "shak" means doubt
and "shookran" means thank you

so you end up with a list says:
normal (poached) doubt
metal (scrambled) doubt
cheese doubt
hummus thank you
somehow in the process, "metal doubt" became metal suspicion, and "cheese doubt" becomes "she is suspicious of cheese"

The EC90 logo gets slapped on any number of no-brand carbon bits. They're not fakes in that they're not actually copying a real EC90 part but they don't have anything to do with Easton.

So I fixed this eventually. New gasket didn't make a difference so I tried descaling again (only descaled a couple months ago but figured it was worth a try). Backflushed with descaler solution then cafiza and it works fine again. I figure there was a flake of scale that found its way into the solenoid or something but I'm not sure. It works as it should again without having to dismantle it further so I'm happy.

Don't know what the electronics look like on those but assume they're fairly simple. Start with a visual check for blown components or bad solders then break out a multimeter and do continuity checks. Probably a good chance it's a dead motor.

Yeah I don't see how knowing what espresso machine you use would make any difference to how they grind it. I'll often tweak mine as I run through a batch of beans. I'll use anywhere from notch 7 to 11 on my Rocky grinder which is a fairly wide range. Matters less if you have a pressurised portafilter though I guess.

Old seat cluster:

New seat Cluster:

I just find the new CAAD boring in general. I liked that it kept the classic horizontal top tube geo while still looking like a modern bike. The new paint schemes seem half arsed too.

Yeah Brita taps are pretty easily available. Never used one myself so I don't know how good they are.
https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/brita-dolce-water-filter-tap-with-cartridge

So it is haha. Guess he's done it a few times then.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283801152004
this was the original. £1650 would have been a bargain price for it, but yeah... stick a reserve or a higher starting price on it.

Lotus 110, ex-GAN frame used by Pascal Lance
Was pretty handy for drafting vans down the A127 in Southend or sending through the woods on dry days.

What weight are you getting out and in what time? If you're getting ~30g out from your 15g of coffee in 30 seconds or a bit less and it's sour you can up the dose. If it's taking much less time to hit 30g then a finer grind is the way to go but you could also up the dose a bit. I usually do 18-19g in for 36-38g out in 30 seconds.