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Zombie post. I can do it because I started it. lol

My dog feeling the NJS.

Guess I don't understand. The paint was always horrible on the thing. It's been a city owned bike for 10yrs+ and seen major use.

The worst cast scenario is I strip it down to chrome and have it custom painted and add new Samson decals.

It's not like I'm taking a hacksaw or permanently modifying the frame.

Paid next to nothing for the frame.

Samson is slowly being repainted. I've been working on the fork first to get good results...think this is the 3rd or 4th strip/respray. Trying different paints (Ironlak Lak and Molotow Premium). May end up getting it pro resprayed/powder coated.

Soon as I get good results on the fork I'm going to hit the frame. Just temporarily assembled it to get some riding in.

I would do a good job and also re-apply a set of Samson decals in place of the originals.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samson-Bicycle-Decals-Transfers-Stickers-Set-1/142046510843?

I may re-think the idea though.

What is that seatpost and saddle setup ?
Awesome biek !

Thanks
No idea on the post. Picked it up from a used shop.

The saddle is a really old Ti Flite that I've repaired a few times over the years. Definitely seeing some age.

It's been awhile since I posted here but had a quick question (and I'll post pics of my bike so I'm at least contributing to the thread).

I found a local art shop that sells Montana Gold/Black and other higher end graff paint and thinking about spraying my Samson.

It's currently grey but chromed under the paint.

I'll strip the paint and just spray with either Montana Gold or Montana White (Their "Gold" level is supposed to be the better paint). Anyone try either one?

I just want a color change and don't care if it gets worn again/beat up from being locked up.

Here is the bike. It's beat to hell but you can't tell because of the grey and chrome blends together.

Back in 2005 I was visiting London (I'm a yank) in one of those narrow Kensington side streets/tall residential buildings.

All of a sudden I just hear the most insane noise coming my way...like hell opened up and Satan decided to yell at me. A baby blue Miura with most likely straight pipes comes tearing through. The V12 + Webers + straight exhaust echoing off the walls just sounded orgasmic.

Still gives me goosebumps just thinking about it.

use tinypic

I don't get it.

I ran Blitz ITB's on my CRX back in the late 90's. It had a decently spec'd gsr motor. I could never get them to run right. If I ran WOT they would run fine...but the gas/let off was like an on/off switch. Sounded incredible though. Almost ended up going to 40mm Mikuni's but sold the car. I remember Mugen getting 180-200ish out of 1.5 NON-Turbo SOHC using Mikuni's back in the 80's.

At the time they had some $2500 programmable ECU...either JG Racing or something similar. I had some modified Honda ecu with some rich fuel program and some janky piggyback programmable fuel deal. The stuff they have now for ITB's/tuning is incredible...and cheap.

I actually had an easier time with my triple Mikuni'd 240Z. Just get the linkage set, sync them, fiddle with jets, and just leave them alone. More you fiddle, the more issues.

This thread is giving me the itch again. I've had a FJ80 Land Cruiser that's been rock solid but I want to get around to messing with cars again. Trying to convince pops to do a father/son restoration on something fun. Trying to convince him to get an old 911E 2.2 like he used to have. Such a simple car to work on. You can work on a bug, old 911s are cake. Another possibility is a BMW 1600/2002, one of the mid to late 60's Alfa coupes (preferably a stepnose), or even a E30 318IS or later Quattro coupe.

My step mom is all for it since it will get my dad occupied...time will see.

Do you all have a favorite for el cheapo rat priced tyre that's actually decent? I've been using Conti GP's (original version)...we can get them for around $25 in the states.

Just want a good 700x25 that can take decent abuse/skidz and cheap.

I'm a sucker for tight clearances.
This can be road, track, mountain bike, whatever..

-Fork/tyre
-Tyre/down tube
-Tyre seat/chainstays

Or anything else. If it's a tight clearance, feel free to post.

These are some of my favorite images collected on the internet/here.
This is my kind of bike porn.

Nah, Miata was a toy. Full suspension upgrade (Tein coilovers), swaybars, etc.. full 4 point cage. etc..

It was going to be track day car but then it got totalled.

Absolutely garish but I loved it anyway.

Really? Mine felt very solid...they have a lot more sound deadening/stiffer body than the pre-89 cars.

This was my old C2. Took me forever to find white with black interior AND manual transmission. So many of them have that tiptronic.

I should scan/post the receipt when I had to get the engine split/rebuilt. It's cringeworthy. Bought it with around 65k on it too....

I would consider posting pics of NA Miata but feel it would get mixed feelings...love it or absolutely despise it. haha

The most reliable Porsche 911's are the 78-89 (kind of confusing because some 964's started in 89 too).
The 84-89 3.2 Carrera is pretty much the final chapter of the old style 911 bodies and by that time, the car is pretty much perfect. If you can find one with records and receipts, get a post-inspection and it clears, that car can easily give you years and years of trouble free driving.

A friend of my dad's is the owner (and only mechanic) of an air cooled Porsche shop. He's been working on 911's since the 70's. He mentioned one day it's common for 3.0 (911SC) and 3.2 (Carrera) engines to go 300k miles without a rebuild if the owner takes care of it. Like any sports car, a lot of owners are the types that baby them too much...rarely drive the car, let it sit, shift low when driving, etc.. These cars need to be driven and get the oil circulating. They love to be driven hard. The cars are usually a lot more reliable when driven regularly and driven hard.

So yeah, anyone considering a 911, definitely check out the 78-89. I think the best bang for your buck is the later year SC's and the 84-85 Carrera. If you do get a late model Carrera, it comes with a more modern transmission but the standard 915 transmission on the earlier cars isn't hard to use. It does have longer throws though in case you're used to modern cars with very short shifts.

I can't think of a more reliable 80's sports car until the NSX a little later.

I would try to find a 78+ 911 if I were you. The later SC cars (78-83) were absolutely bulletproof with their 3.0. The only upgrades you need with an SC is a pop off valve in the airbox and upgrade the chain tensioners to later 84+ Carrera style.

I had a 79 SC and daily drove the car four years...rain, light snow, etc.. I drove it.
In all of those years, the only thing I replaced was spark plug wires. Like I said, you find one with a good history (VERY important), paperwork, and get it inspected by a Porsche shop...you'll most likely have a car that will run strong/reliable for years to come.

I also had a 93 964 C2 (white/black interior..so nice) that only had 60k miles on it. Daily drove that car too....even with black ice out (the abs works great on those haha). That car had a catastrophic issue though. One of the oil journals got blocked up and oil wasn't getting to one of the banks. Cam was basically running dry. Didn't sound odd to the ear...just like it needed a valve adjustment soon. Took it in...yeah. Had to drop the engine/split the case, bascially rebuild everything. 13k US later. Sold that one after the repair.
When I bought the 964, the seller "forgot" to tell me the car had a full race exhaust with no heat exchangers. So no heat. In the winter, I would use a battery powered hair blower and the AC to defrost the windows.
Here is a video clip of my 964 exhaust...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lImgcAM4f0

Sorry, got off track. But like I said, try your best to find one 78+. There is so much less headaches. The 2.7 had heating issues and would pull head studs. I'm sure the owner fixed those issues but with a 3.0, it's a bullet proof motor from the start.

Also, Targas will leak. If you live in rainy weather, often times you'll see a drip from the front windshield corner when on sweeping curves. My SC was a targa and would never do it again. Plus they're a bit flexy too....the coupes just feel more stable/less squeaks and rattles. You can always find one with a sunroof.

PM me with any random 911 questions. I've had 2, my dad had a 72 911E, and was a Porsche mechanic for 10+ years. I absolutely love these cars.

I'm just popping in...I am definitely going to read this thread from front to back. I'm a car nut that's had an odd mix of old cars over the years.

This is just a random question.

For people that collect classic wheels/rims...it can be muscle car, sports car, race wheels, rare old school wheels, what was your favorite set you've personally owned?

About 10 years ago I had a set of Japanese SSR XR4 Longchamps in IMMACULATE condition. Looked factory fresh.
Rear: 15x8.5 -16 offset
Front: 15x8 -8 offset

Took me forever to find a decent set. They were a popular circuit wheel in the 80s/90s.

And my excuse to post a pic of them on one of my past cars.
73 240z, 280z block./3.1 stroker, triple 44mm Mikuni, custom coilover setup, 280Z 5 speed/rear end.
Loved this car so much. Longchamps fit it well.

The rims fit perfectly...lip lined up with the fender lip and sucked right in on bumps. It ended up slightly lower to even things out.

Can't believe how much time I spent on online offset calculators just making sure the lip is flush. Nothing worse than concave rims or the tuner family Nissan that has 15x8 -0 sticking 2" past the fender. I would study rim offset/widths vs different tire combos like it was a science. haha

Now I drive an old Japanese 4x4. I miss the stupid stuff but at the same time I don't.
Just hope I don't come across a 60's/70's Alfa GT 1300 JR (stepnose) or similar.

Cool story bro

I come across better local used deals on wheel(s) than I do for most other track parts....so many cheap track wheels on craigslist. Like a standard Deep V with Formula/Novatec hub for $50. A month or so ago someone was selling a set of H Sons laced to Formula hubs for a little over a $100 but they were sold fast.

Cheap Deep Vs or similar are common...and they can take street abuse.

Nice! You could mount a simple tail light inside the curved section and none would be the wiser.

56cm Concorde track frame with wishbone rear
$150 US
It's located an hour or so south of Seattle in Tacoma.

Would be an awesome rat project but it's too big for me.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5629827041.html

I keep hearing about this "Can't use a straight seatpost on a Flite." Where do people see the Flite having rails in the rear of the saddle?

They look centered to me?

Here is a straight seatpost near the center of the Flite's rail...and the seat is almost directly inline with the saddles center.

It's funny you keep tabs on people on a fixed gear forum. I have no idea who you are but I'm SO EXCITED to meet your standards of posting.