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How does one obtain these "Yellow Bourbon" beans, other than going to Northampton? I can only find a Facebook feed...

Epic achievement Skinny! The logo's turned gold because urine our hearts.

Flight routes and times are quite convincing imho: https://www.metabunk.org/flat-earth-theory-debunked-by-short-flights-qf27-qf28-from-australia-to-south-america.t6483/

On the grease transfer front: I originally used grease for the locking mechanism, but my key would pick up the grease+dirt every time I locked/unlocked it, and so my hands and jeans pockets would get dirty. I now use graphite powder and have never had any issues with it going anywhere.

I can also confirm that the OnGuard Brute does need lubing, or it will lock your bike safely and securely against your will one cold winter day, and hold it ransom until you bring a lube sacrifice (happened to, eh, a friend of mine?).

Acetone, usually. But it will take a bit of soaking.

Stronglight 2000 + Stronglight JP400 / 110.5mm JIS + Miche Primato + V-sprint cog with 1mm spacer = 43.5mm chainline Levitz

As for Tokyo outside Ueno market:

I picked up some nice selvedge jeans from Pure Blue Japan (http://www.purebluejapan.jp/about-us/location), they have an awesome deep indigo colour, the thread used to stitch it is also indigo-dyed so you can't really see it.

Also a pair from Kapital (http://kapital.jp/shop/detail/4.html), who do a heavy and rough old-fashioned denim.

I just ordered the black 40mm rear from V-sprint 2 weeks ago, it's unmachined.

I had those Specialized stix lights. By far the smallest lights ever, yet plenty bright to be seen (but not see on country lanes). Only downside was that the battery is also the smallest ever: charges in 20 mins, discharges in...about the same? I lost both of them somewhere before I could return them to Evans for "repair"...

We used to have a bike coop on Newmarket Rd that would have been the ticket...sadly it's now being developed into luxury apartments (you'll notice this is a theme in Cambridge).

If makespace doesn't do it for you, post what tools you're after and maybe someone on here can help you out! In terms of shops, http://bicycleambulance.com/ is the place most geared towards fixies as far as I know.

...PM'ed!

Grrr, so tempted! It'd be the coolest beater.

Find the right job and your boss will do the visa work for you.

Friend of mine works for Intel in the aforementioned Portland, they got him a green card. I did an internship for Xerox in Palo Alto a long time ago and they were similar: if they hire you, they arrange a visa for you.

I'm sure this would be considered blasphemy, but is there a way to mount a front brake on a fork like that?

How do people rate the V-sprint Miche+Pegasus/Mach1 wheels these days? They come in at 140 a pair too...

Reviving a dead thread: are we still recommending Norbar, or has something better come along since?

I'd have the Phil/H wheel if you think you could post it safely? Will PM you now.

EDIT: I'll PM you anyway in case stuart doesn't take it.

Who even sells them anymore in the UK? Neither dropouts nor 8ball listed them on their webshop last time I checked. Which leaves Standert in Berlin...

I had never considered that Fuji as an option. This is a bit off-topic, but I'd be interested what other 'Pre Cursa alternatives' people would recommend at a decent price point. Aventon? Colossi Cheeko?

Given that you won't run out of seat post on the 56, the biggest difference will be the reach. I'd think you could make either work with the appropriate stem length (depending on how much of a T-Rex you are). The 56 should give you a slightly more aggressive position because of the shorter head tube.

Others may have other considerations?

Oooh that is good to know, I was planning on fitting it to a Pre Cursa too. I had seen posts complaining about the chain stay clearance on the PC, but they were all from 2012 or thereabouts. Do you get a 43.5mm chain line with the 110mm BB then? That would mean adding spacers to the sprocket, which can leave preciously little purchase for it, depending on the hub… reconsiders looking for omnomnoms instead

I happened to be looking for a crankset too, thanks for the tip!

Wheels: v-sprint.com used to be the forum favourite, don't know whether this is still the consensus? They have a rep on here (@varno) and used to have a 10% discount code for LFGSS members.

I'm sure it's been mentioned, either here or other threads on the forum, but discussing cycling safety through the topic of helmets is completely backwards. As anyone who's ever been to a Health and Safety course will know, Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is the last defence in making something safe. So if we care about making cycling safer, we should start by designing it to be safe. Also: it is not fair to place all the responsibility on the cyclist's end. All road users are responsible for making it safe for all road users.

Examples that are not helmets:
If you design roads to have a cycling path that's physically removed from the road used by motorised vehicles, minimising the time they have to share the same space, you would expect most of the accidents and altercations that lead to annoyance, injury or death to a cyclist not to happen at all.

Failing that, if roads are to be shared, then cars, buses, trucks etc. should be designed to minimise their blind spots. It is the operator's responsibility to make sure they use their mirrors and recognise situations that are likely to put others in danger (e.g. making a left turn). I'm sure the education of motorists in this respect can be improved.

In the event of a collision, the speed at which this happens matters greatly. Therefore, speed limits should be part of this discussion.

Finally, if helmets were to improve the outcome of collisions, then it would be just as reasonable to require all cars to be fitted with plastic or rubber bumpers. Different car types may also affect cycling safety differently, so one could think of regulating this. For pedestrian safety, for example, tall cars fitted with bull bars are very unsafe compared to 'normal' sedans.

Hope this adds something?

Good point! I measure it to be 16mm exactly, so that includes however much rubbery stuff there is on top of the steel. So perhaps that puts it out of the 'acceptable' range…

EDIT: The ends that go into the shackle show the bare steel: I measure them to be a meagre 13mm in diameter. So never mind adding this to the list!