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Looking for a front mech suitable for a double chainring, with a 31.8 clamp.
Not too picky - prefer Tiagra equivalent or higher. Will be used for friction shifting so brand not too important.
If you've got something lying around that you've been meaning to shift for a while, now's the time.
Thanks!
Tom -
Does anyone need a 180 rotor on a touring/audax/gravel bike? It's hardly downhill - 160mm provides more than enough stopping power.
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Message incoming about the whole thing.
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Got any plans?
Sounds like you need to spend a bit of money relocating the radiators in the living room to allow you to place furniture in places where it works for you. If the woodburner is in the hearth, install new wiring to the chimney breast to take your TV. Then you can use the alcoves for storage/shelves/posters/a desk.
Might even be wise to brick up the lower ground floor entrance so you can use it as a utility room/storage, provided you have a safe fire escape route from the basement (you probably will unless all the windows are barred and you have no garden and its open plan upstairs...)
If possible, build fitted storage into your new upper ground floor entrance hall to hold all your big winter coats/kids school stuff etc.
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Ahh man I feel bad for her. Definitely a sign of declining mental health. Along with hoarding... I don't know what it is with the UK, but I somehow doubt the rest of the continent has an issue with elderly relatives keeping a collecting every copy of The Times and storing it in their garage.
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His surname is what does it for me
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Have you tried "shit lever handle chrome finish"?
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I don't know, there's something quite appealing about it. Got a bit of a soft spot for a functional mixte.
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Saw someone riding a Marin Larkspur this morning. Looked exceptionally comfortable.
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Ahh I'll have put it in storage by then, and won't be taking it out for a little while. I can message you when its out of storage in a month or so, if it's still around?
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An optimistic, but ultimately unused, lockdown purchase.
I have this chunky mirafit wall mounted pull up bar in the shed, and need it gone by 2pm Sat 27th. Really good quality.
Going to start the price at £35 this eve, and drop it by £5 per day.
Pic up Saturday 27th would be ideal, but can also do Wed, Thurs, Fri evenings after 6.15pm.
Location: Peckham SE15 4AN
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I imagine that's probably it. Quite a lot of load coming down directly on the corner. Might be worth seeing how much smaller you'd have to make the window before you could omit the column. If its 100 - 150mm you might decide it's worth it.
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@Trunkie This is frustrating because to me there seems to be no reason why you can't just stick a suitable beam in there without columns. Possibly because the resultant brick pier on the outside corner might not be sufficient to take the load? Or possibly the work take you within 100mm of the party wall and he wants to spare you needing an award?
I've counted bricks to guessimate the width of the offshoot as 3m, so with a new opening width @ 2.6 it might be one of these things.
Phone him up and ask why the beam can't sit directly on the masonry, and ask if it's one of the above, he'll probably not like being questioned, but it's his own fault for not giving better advice.
DW about BC - you can always re-submit the SE calcs before/after the work is done. Only a small job.
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Could you send a photo of where you're planning the opening? Theoretically if your walls are 215 thick masonry, you should be able to sit the UC on padstones rather than columns. This would also minimise cold bridging.
A 203UC46 sound pretty over specced for the job - smaller columns should be possible unless you're in a v tall house... don't tell him you got this suggestion from an architect though... tensions between our professions are bad enough already!
If none of this is possible I'll suggest a different approach, but best to sort out first principles before trying to pack & render the column.
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Hello,
As above - looking for a carbon "adventure" style fork that has mounts for anything cages etc.
1 1/8" to 1.5" tapered please. Need a new headset, so could be tempted by a straight steerer.
Many thanks!
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Thanks, really appreciate this, and as @gbj_tester has suggested, I'll brush up on the maths before taking anything apart. Lacing is as you'd guessed, 3 X 32. I'll take the tyre off at the weekend and see how much nipple I have to play with in the existing setup
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Is it prevailing thought that 2mm difference is outside the recommended tolerance for spoke lengths?
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I have a Ryde Andra 30 rim on a LX T610 front hub (rim brake only)
Could I change out the hub for a disc LX equivalent without replacing all the spokes?
First foray into rebuilding a wheel, and unsure of the tolerances allowed on spoke lengths. Shimano spec table with diameters in below.
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CAAD 7, 54cm. £100
Edit... Somehow missed the dent...
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Depends on what you're riding. I do most of my touring on road, and my personal preference is for something under 40mm - above this and it feels sluggish when you're pushing it for days on end. Did my last tour on 35s, will probably do my next tour on the same.
Unless you're riding a bit of dirt, there's not much need for it.
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That would be swell, I'll pm ya
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Thought I'd check here before buying new!
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