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Joy of getting older is how long it takes to bounce back.

Sounds normal Hippy.

I went over the bars like a human torpedo, managed to miss the big tree in front of me and slid to a halt.... got away with that i thought.....

The bike was close behind doing a gracefull cartwheel.

The point of impact was the top of my coccyx or in laymans terms top of my arse crack.
It was the bar end (always run with bar end plugs kids) and in the violence of impact it didn't glance off but more stuck in the crack and followed it down and slammed my nut sack.

I crawled off the track and couldn't get up for several minutes.
End result, black and blue nuts and not being able to sit down properly for months.

Consultation with the doctors ended with "how strong do you want the painkillers because that's the only fix"
As i found out.... surgery is a non goer, you have to let it heal by itself as it's the base of the spine and surgeons don't like poking around down there.

Also done both shoulders, did argue in A&E with the doc as he decided it hadn't popped out because if it did he would have popped it out again. I still maintain it popped or was half out the socket and i popped it back in again and finished the race run then got some one to lob my bike in the car because i couldn't pick it up and drove myself to A&E :) happy day's

Cracked hip as well and broken some helmets. This bike is going to be a magic carpet ride of soft suspension and bail my ass out of trouble when i run out of skills :)

That's like riding off a kerb isn't it :)

(the Bieks ability is way beyond mine)

Much faffing and chain device lined up, spaced out and no contact with chain set and securing bolts.
Had a ready mech and shifter from the Hardtail with a full outer cable run. I reckon it needs a couple more inches length but it will do for riding up and down squealing the brakes as they bed in.
Got some Gore cable sets so can soon run out a slick shift.
Still got the original X9 mech and SX5 shifters and LX front mech so can easily swap back to dualie.

Get some tyres on, fit brakes try and centre them, some grips and maybe ride off some kerbs.

Gone through all the inner tubes, some new, some good, some patched and many pinch flatted, all have been patched up now. Combination of rubber glue patches and instant stick on's as had some of each and had them a while. Nothing to lose so patch all the things. Maybe a dozen 26" tubes so good for a day trip to a bike park flat landing stuff :)

Hardly anything on youtube.

Found a 46 with the stock Maverick forks and Hope M4s and the linkage bearings where covered by life time warranty, not many brands have stood by the product like that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKpJtkQD3Zw

Like some other posters i did the classic of over biking myself.
I really wanted the 07 Enduro but the wait time was 4-5 months and then the shop got hold of the SX and i bought it. However the race scene back around 07 was still wild regarding uplift and it was possible to do more damage to a bike in a single uplift run than a whole season of race runs and practice runs.
Imagine 20 bikes piled up in the back of a quarry lorry then bounced up hill on rough tracks. Common damage was pulled brake hoses, bent rotors, bent mech hangers, fork damage and i watched a flat pedal with steel pins saw through an Alu downtube. I stuck to racing on steel hardtails :)

Had a similar thing with the Whyte 46, did a demo day and ordered one on the day, then a week later shop called and stated totally sold out.

Did consider a Big Hit, the earlier models around 2004 where very very adjustable with multi positions on the shock to linkage mount and the shock to frame top mount, you could play around with tuning suspension a lot. That and the fixings where specced as off the shelf from hardware shops, unlike the dedicated hard to get even from the supplier fastners and fittings that followed.
Aimed at Privateer racers back then. Couple of locals fitted triple chainsets to them and did xc rides on them to find techy big things to play on :)

Wheels done and back together.

Rotors jet washed then cleaned with IPA. Bolts cleaned and fresh thread locked.
As I have spare pads it might be best to just install them as used pads have uneven wear, so trying to square up callipers to rotors should be easier with new pads.

Front hub. Specialized Stout. Took some internetting to work out how to take them apart. Normally with 20mm axle hubs the bearing cap spacers are a loose fit and drop off with ease. I had to stick an inch of axle into the cap and then lever down and pop them out. Bearings fine, cleaned and re-greased caps and used a threaded rod to push the caps back in.
Rim tape had snapped ages ago and been bridged with tape. Had a spare roll of cloth rim tape so used that. Made sure the rotor interface was clean and re fitted clean rotor.

Back wheel. Again took a few minutes to work out how it came apart. Got the freehub off and fairly clean around the pawls. Cleaned out, light smear of fresh grease and back together again.
One spoke needed tightening up.

Picture, Specialized stout rear hub innards.
Top, thru axle

Hub spindle with top hat end cap and o-ring seal
Freehub body, inner spacer.

Stock wheels built on DT swiss E540 rims, known for being a tight fit with tyre beads and some batches allegedly made from cheese and prone to breaking. Got good batch never had a problem other than a bastard to fit tyres on.

bag of tubes too, many need patching but good for tubes :)

Animation of suspension in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgPp5YNz6Gg

All the rubbers and compounds. If you converted this lot to durex you would probably would never get through them all :)

Crash around 6.55mins in
Send that Coiler and old school Helmet cams :)

Today will be faffing with wheelset, maybe dig out some gears/shifter and tyres/tubes.
Late night hunt for a cassette lock ring tool so i can have a hub apart, also need it to service the fork. But thats later, maybe jet wash a pile of rubber while the suns out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkU1o_WBnuo

@Emyr could be, i can't remember that much detail and no idea what standards are about right now.

Bit of Kona history to offset the Spesh, and you know Coilers :)

I lost it at Rasin Crunchers, never heard that term before :) (third vid is best)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRvmS1fXN68

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VM4o6RitOU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xocIMc9onHA

Found some more vids

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0tH2QTNvxU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoOf0Xno3HM

A freakin Jump Pool ! :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6I1eCgr4EQ

Mismatch final cut.

Hone cranks and reworked Raceface BB. E13 36t chainring and Gamut chain device.
Bit of cleaning then go rummaging for fitting hardware.

Bit of a ball ache but the chain device bolts directly to the ISCG tabs* on the BB shell.
You then have to faff about with spacers for chainline and clearing chainstays as the stays move. It's possible to fit a device, have a heavy landing and find the chainstay/swingarm connects to the device at full compression bending or snapping things.

*ISCG
International Standard Chain Guide tabs. Most likely a few more standards now due to Pressfit bearing standards.

Oldschool
BB adaptor plate to ISCG 4 the BB cup holds the plate in place for frames with no tabs. Have one somewhere. Might still be on Monk for future use.

ISCG4 like BCD for cranks this is a ref to diameter of tabs on BB shell.

ISCG5 A larger diameter came in with external cup bearings as the ISCG4 devices won't fit.

Older Bikes tend to be ISCG4 like my 2007 model or use an adaptor plate.

Bash rings.
Top left stock fitted to bike, no name thin Alu ring common fitment on Truvativ and other brands at the time.

Top right, Black Spire Ring God :) burly 6mm Alu plate. I used to run 32t up front and this was sized for 32-34t chunky and durable and made in the homeland of Freeride and North Shore.

Bottom left, Shimano Saint, plastic, chunky looks but light, came as a set with the 36t chainring. The bash ring would only fit Saint cranks and requires filing to fit others. An example of Shimano making things to only fit there product lines.

Bottom right, Gamut, came with chain device or on it's own, simple light strong and years after I got the SX Gamut became an OEM supplier to Specialized so kinda looks stock as later models came fitted with them.

Chain guides.
Things have lightened up since the days of the Mr Dirt devices.

Top is the Black spire Stinger came stock, not running Dualie so back in the box.

Left the old E13 LG1 bit chunky, already attempted to fit and it requires some cutting and filing to clear the chainstay. The blue skid plate was from a smashed but then cut down SuperCharger bashring. 1/2" thick plastic over the thinner Alu rings. No bash ring used with the LG1 so they worked well in mud. Months after I bought mine they started supplying the skid plates in the box....

On the right a Gamut P30 (or 40) named on max size range of chainring so the 30 was good up to 40t and the 40 good up to 50t or something like that.
Very simple and strong and a few years progress much lighter than the E13.

Rummaging through the parts bin.

Stock the SX came with a Dualie set up of 36t & 24t with the Blackspire dual roller guide and a light Alu bash ring.

At the top Shimano 36&32 ramped rings and a Blue Middleburn 32t and the inner rings of 24&22t for low gear winching back up hill.

Then we have a Saint 36t an E13 36t and Gamut 34t non ramped rings. Got a Gamut 36t on Monk, they are DH strong but XC light.

The new type Red threaded ones replaced the brass ones in your picture @miloas which might explain why i had trouble finding things as some parts listed as Avid and others listed under SRAM.

Might just try some local shops as they may have workshop stock of the brass ones, but it looks like the Red ones are also correct. Found similar Brass fittings but listed as Shimano only.

Got stung like this years ago on small parts, asked shop to replace front brake hose as abrasion damage. Hose standard had changed so we went from a couple of quid for a bit of hose to new banjos and fixings to £25 . In hindsight it would at the time been cheaper to spend a bit more and get a braided kit.

Squeal like a pig (name that movie, I won't post the video :) )

Scoot around and brake check, just gotta look for leaks.

LOUD squealy both ends. Could be a combo of dirty rotors, poor caliper alignment etc etc . Can't put any heat into the rotors until I get the drive sorted and can get bike up to speed and go through the bedding in process for brakes, that might cure some of the squeal. The pads might be it, but 2 different types in use and both squeal, can feel vibration coming from back end. From memory, Avid pads where costly, didn't last long but quiet, the after market pads are 1/2 the price, last longer but noisy when very hot or very wet.

NDS piccy for brakes and taped on hose..... might just get the bathroom scales out and have a weigh in :)

When you know what your doing this is a piece of piss.
When you half know what your doing expect some mess.
When you have no idea what your doing go to the LBS :)

Bit messy but bleeds done.
Front brake was text book perfection.

The back brake was a pain, and expected as I had the cylinder apart and hose off last night so loads of air locks to push out.
After 3 goes and still having junky fluid come through, I think it's done subject to a rolling test on the wheels and see how long it lasts.

The picture, it's not urine samples :) (or is it)
Hypo on the left is the cloudy junk fluid from front brake.
Hypo on the right is the clean fresh fluid.

Found a barb/olive set that should fit under Sram, only things listed as Avid are via ebay from china. So going to run with the brakes as is for now and if they function then get some barbs/olives and trim back the hoses later. Might cost around £10 and then a re-bleed.

Complete brake system hanging up drying now. Water deactivates Dot Fluid so rinse everything off under the shower and store hanging with lever/cylinder up high so any air will migrate up to the cylinder.

Balls.

Investigated the fittings. The hose barb and olive are not reusable. Thankfully i found this out the easy way by pulling the thing as far apart as it would go and not by just cutting the hose first.

The barb and olive seem elusive to purchase.... only tried SJS by default then CRC and no joy.

So until i find them no choppy choppy as it might just write off the brakes. All i found was a hose and fitting kit for Juicy 5/7 which is slightly different to the "3" i have and it was £26 for 2 meters of hose and single set of fittings. The few spare parts i found are not worth having due to cost. Would be more cost effective to get a new brake.

Everything back together, front brake seems in good order and working, worked the pistons in and out a few times and lubed.
Might be a long life left in the brakes yet. Time to bleed and try out, nothing to lose.

If in doubt get a Local Bike Shop to do this. Don't muck about with your brakes if you are not sure.
Safer and much cleaner.

So safety bit out the way.
The back brake has always played up.
There is some corrosion around the banjo connector on the lever.

I pushed through 20ml of fresh fluid, lots of air came through too but fluid was quite clean.
Worked the pistons in and out a few times and lubed them, both working in unison now.
Tempted to undo the hose fitting and see if I can dismantle and reuse parts (like I can with Hopes) and trim back hose.

Put the brakes on the rolling frameset and go through the bleeding process tomorrow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzZkEIrCBJ0

Look like Codas.
I have seen them before but long since forgotten them Howard as only seen in a magazine or online.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yz1GuWYZH_o

Found a full length one :) just the intro made me smile rad little fella

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRvvDN-s3pM

@Howard :) never heard of them

Stoppy stoppy Slippy slippy.

Got 500ml of Dot 5.1 and 5ooml of 7.5wt fork oil.

Found J-Tech and had a quick chat about rebuilding an old shock when I find out it has dry seals after flat landing something rad and it blows oil all over the back tyre.
If the fork seals need doing then I will get them to do that as well and they have the SKF ones. I don't have the tooling for setting seals in place so let a mechanic do that.
My limit is going to be whip off the top caps, have the springs out and drain the oil, quick flush and refill for now.
Found old notes in the manual about oil volume so no guess work on that front. Do have an old pdf of what I think is the full service manual for the Marzocchi 66 series fork so need to have a look into that and print it off.
Should have the Z series manual too.

Brakes.
Stock fitted was Avid Juicy 3. While nice to use and I liked them, the back brake has a nasty habit of not working. Juicy's have an old rep for being a bit crap.
As I have found spare sets of pads it's worth a punt to trim the hoses and re-bleed. Probs not worth the hassle or cost of trying to find spares.

I have a couple of sets of Hope M4's the Black&Gold set in the box can be swapped out onto Monk as IS calipers and fixed at 180-160 and the newer Tech M4 hopefully would match up on the Avid adapters to 200mm rotors.

All 3 brake sets are Dot 5.1, all could do with fresh stoppy juice and maybe some new hose (braided hose FTW but not for cost)
Pull the pads, clean everthing, knock up a bleed rig

Will randomly throw in bits of chatter as we go along, anyone remember the Fro-Riders ? :) might have some old magazines with advertising for that. A very funny spat between Cannondale and the bike industry and Rocky Mountain calling them out on it :)