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Wasn't sure if there was another thread for this but wanted a sense check before making a big purchase!

Looking at getting a Dolan GXC on the Cycle To Work scheme and trying to decide on sizing. According to their size guide, I'm top end on an XS and low end of a S.

I've compared the geometry but this is really my first time understanding a geo chart, my initial thought was to go with the XS as I can always show more seatpost/longer stem, and the cranks are 170mm which would be my preference.

Am I missing anything obvious or anything road/gravel specific that would need to be considered here?

Have been heeing and hawing about getting a "proper" bike on C2W now it's an option with my company. I've been being doing my usual compulsive research and I think I've settled on the Dolan (surprise surprise), either GXA or GXC depending what I can budget.

I'm most likely going be riding roads predominantly, but this gives me the option for larger tyres mudguards and get stuck into some more gravel. 105 12spd with hydraulic brakes. If I end up wanting to be full gravé I know the GRX rear mech is interchangeable with the 105 stuff so could get a clutched mech.

Full coverage mudguards oh how I love thee, so quick just to nip to the shops and not get covered in rain from the ever threatening Scottish weather. Needs a front rack & basket as carrying tote bag and cycling is not a good idea.

Similar to my last comment about the Ribble CGR, anyone tried to Dolan GCX? On the C2W the monthly cost between that and the CGR overall is only about £150 (same 105 12sp) and I've loved my other Dolan bike.

Yeah they seem to represent great value. Wish I could buy the frameset easily, I’d be happier building up with a new groupset and a wheelset from here. The kinesis looks fantastic you’ve done some job on it.

Anyone have any experience/thoughts on the Ribble CGR? Looking at getting something road & gravel curious. I had a great small Arkose from Mrs @pjhobs iirc and it was fantastic but felt a little dull. In hindsight most likely my fault for comparing it to my Pre Cursa and riding it on the stock wheels and 35mm tyres around London.

Or anything else in the sub £1000ish mark, Jesus when did bikes with 105 become so bloody expensive. No problem with non 105 but ideally thru axle so if in the future I want to upgrade anything I should be able to adaptor my way to it.

Picked up some silver Blumels for this today, annoyingly none of the eyelets are threaded so will grab some nuts from Screwfix tonight. Also picking up some clip on Zeflal Shield guards for the Dolan. Need to redress the balance and spend time riding these bikes not just working on them!

crankset off the Dolan now on the Raleigh with a new chainring. Keeping an eye out for a replacement rear hub/wheel so I can move to a 9/10 speed mtb setup that could be compatible with 5700 levers I'm using on the Dolan at the moment.

Yeah I have considered this, I think once I start riding more I'll see how they wear then take stock of what's left.

It's ridiculous, you can almost here it moving to each bearing in the race. I am running 48x19 previously which I knew sounded silly but felt needed when I was still in London. Now definitely can drop to 48x17!

Cranks & BB fitted over the weekend, I was hoping to acetone off the logos but they are well and truly on there. If I get the frame powder coated at some point, I may get the cranks done, or strip and polish them if it matches the new look. Shorter stem is just the ticket, sadly also non actetoneable logos.

This is awesome! If you'd be happy for contributors I wouldn't mind helping with any feature requests/bugs?

Frame looks fantastic loving seeing this one come together

Amazing transformation, 10/10

What's the latest forum wisdom RE DIY paint jobs? Estimating the time/effort/reward for my Pre Cursa.

So far I'm factoring in:

1. Paint stripper (although given removal of DCM et al from these perhaps not worth it)
   
2. Sand paper/wire pads etc
   
3. 2K primer
   
4. coloured paints
   
5. 2k clearcoat
   
6. respirator etc
   
   

Still works out below cost I had quoted near me of £120 for frame alone.

Interested in peoples thoughts, love the idea but worry I could very quickly bit off more than I can chew.

Jeezy peeps I’ll be flying round if this is what I was dealing with before

You bloody well can, always fancied giving bike polo a go. Drop me a message when you start making plans!

Can't wait to see more, this is one of those builds I can see future me going in for when the pre curse finally bites the dust. Great work so far!

Not seen this until now, Bella is wonderful and the bike looks cracking. Can't wait to see how it comes together!

Bike 2: Raleigh Outlander

Bought cheap of Facebook when we first moved, some new tyres and brakes later and it’s been very useful for runs to screwfix or the shops.

Plans for this are again quite reserved and focused on getting into riding more thinking more regularly. I’m thinking Shimano 9/10 mtb shifter so if desired I could use the 5700 shifters I’m currently using on the Pre Cursa to put drops on to it. If I do get a new crankset for the Dolan maybe a narrow wide on the old one from there.

From there would love to get it fully mudguard and flap with a front rack but one step at a time. Also need a new saddle as these two have been sharing for a while.

Resuscitating this thread to try and keep myself moving on getting back on the bikes. Having left London to Falkirk in 2020 I’ve done a pitiful amount of cycling which I’m trying to rectify. Stable currently sits at 2.

Pre Cursa

Bought in 2015 and it’s been everything since then. Commuting, Kent lanes, fixed crits and anything else I could think of. Last few years has been as pictured getting some use for very basic turbo to keep fit in winter. Did a lovely loop with a friend up to Stirling and it made me realise how much I want to start riding more regularly.

Jobs to do:

130mm stem made sense when riding without hoods but with them it’s far too long. Will pop a wanted add to see what folk have - but aiming for 100/110mm

The bottom bracket has done more than its fair share in all weathers and is very crunchy. I’ve tried to remove it a few times in the past, stripping the threads using a normal tool and chipping a lot of the back of the DS arm using a gear puller. Actual penetrating oil, blowtorch and as @ioreka nicely put it, B&Q Mjolnir and it finally gave way.

The DS arm damage has me thinking perhaps a new crankset would be nice, the knock off ominums I’ve seen on Aliexpress could en up being about the cost of a new BB and chainring. Plan after that will be just to ride it, trying to find some people to ride with in central Scotland and see some new areas.

Workbench from some old tables a neighbour was binning. Really happy to have my own space and something to work on. Will eventually treat myself to some brand new lumber and make a bench with right angles but having it on lockable wheels for now is so useful!

Updates here to keep me accountable, finally replaced the on I hastily made when we moved to stop the dog escaping. Actually got to use a lot of the tools aqcquired over time here. All using old timber from people getting rid of decks and pallets.

Table saw to rip to size, electric planer to tidy it up and mitre saw for the rest. Garden table has been great, really need a flush trim router bit to tidy the outside up. I was in a rush to finish before having friends for dinner.

unlikely 2nd on the iPad case if you could post

Garage Door Cables: first off - fuck them.

Secondly:

My garage door cables both snapped this week, new cable arrived today. Matched the parts, it's a Cardale Pro Safelift. Following YouTube videos on the replacement, I manage to do everything as I would have liked, other than when putting on the new cable, the given wisdom seems to be to wrap it 3 times around the drum - this leaves my cable too short to reach the hook. I did it twice instead which left what I felt was too much slack.

I added tension back into the spring, removed the locking pin on the RHS and tried to open the door - there wasn't enough tension in the cables at all - and they both came off the spindles at the bottom.

How can I best adjust this, to make sure I get sufficient cable tension so when I remove the locking pin and try to open the garage, it opens?