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I picked up a pre cursa with a columbus road tusk from @nohwolf yesterday to build up as a decently spec'd beater.
Unfortunately the pre cursa logos look gash so I've decided to jump on the raw fad. I took it down to Cycle PS in Battersea today and got to work.
Using nitromors, wire brushes, wire wool, sandpaper and elbow grease its come up a treat. Here's a bit of the process for those interested.
Couple of pre strip pics, stolen from @nohwolf's sale thread.
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I'm selling my H plus son wheelset, after a change in build theyre no longer needed.theyre 2 months old and were built by condor cycles. 3-cross rear, radial front.
Rim: H+Son Archtype Black
Hubs: BLB Track 32h blue
Spokes: DT swiss competition black
Cog: BLB 17T blue
Lockring: BLB beefy blue
Tyres: Continental GatorHardshell 25c (used but life left)
Looking for £220 inc. tubes, tyres, cog, lockring and tracknuts. PM if interested.
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@Clockwise Smashed it back. Clearest roads in the worrrrrrrrld.
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Stronglight Crankset SOLD
Silver 165mm 48T 1/8th with self extracting screwsDeda Crononero Pursuit Bars - £25
31.7mm 40cm wide black with Fizik Superlight soft touch bar tape
Leader Downtown Pista Drop Bars - £25
31.8mm with black cork tape and blue cinelli bar plugs
Planet X 100mm stem - £10
1 1/8th steerer, 31.8mm clamp
Planet X 82mm Carbon Tubular wheelset - £300
24 spoke lacing, 2 weeks old, only used at Herne Hill for 2 hours.
Includes challenge pista tubular tyres and track bolts
Stronglight JS400 Bottom Bracket - SOLD
107mm english threaded -
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I've recently bought a track bike which I use on both the road and track. It came with tubulars which I want to use on the velodrome and I have clinchers for road riding.
The only way I can get to HHV or LVV is by cycling there. So.. I was wondering if anyone on the forum rides a spare set of wheels to the track and if you have any insight or tips on doing it. I have a double wheel bag for the tubulars and I was thinking of bungee strapping it to my backpack.
Any other ideas welcomed!
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A Random Selection of parts kicking about.
Live west but can meet Central and drop off to zone 2.Thomson X4 110mm 10deg. £30
Cane Creek Crosstop Brake Levers 31.8mm. Brand new.
SOLDCinelli Kink Grey Pedal Straps. Used but miles left to be ridden.
SOLDBLB T-rex Platform Pedals. Used once, practically brand new
SOLDBLB 60 click 16T freewheel. Slightly rusted outer but sealed and serviceable.
£20
Small topeak saddlebag, not used much in good nick
£5
Crane brass trigger bell
£15
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1- PhilDAS
2- sacredhart
3- keanulooser
4- keanulooser
5- +Khornight2
6- +Khornight2
7- **Enso108
8- Thoma
9- Phil(Picard)
10- snottyotter
11- Clockwise
12- 7VEN
13- 7VEN
14- PQR
15- privatepatterson
16- privatepatterson
17- Yukirin
18- Timbre
19- Juiceb0x
20- **Rallyman1978
21- **arrowplum
22- Duckland
23- Samwell
24- Giofox88
25- SlowRichie
26- SlowRichie
27-hey_pauley
28-hey_pauley
29- **jimibird
30- **jimibird
31- ** The Seldom Killer
32- ** The Seldom Killer
33- ** MRI
34- ajack
35- ajack
36- SuperMario
37- SuperMario
38 - danners -
Good spot, I had also noticed that and I read about it a lot before pairing the two. Supposedly 31.7 and 31.8mm are metric conversions of 1 1/4 inches (31.75mm), deda happen to round down and others round up. Personally I think clamping force would negate any difference of 0.1mm if it existed. I have also had it slip with leader downtown drop bars which are classed as 31.8mm.
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Too long? As in overall stem length?
Just fyi my opinion is, its a road bike stem and functions fine for that. Ive only ever noticed slipping when im fully leaning on the bars. Im 6' 3" and about 90kg. I think in my case its just that its not designed for that kind of load. Its never slipped during normal 'road use' although ive read and heard cases of it happening to others.
Also, a prime focus of this build was nice, high quality parts that are robust. So I think I'll stick with the X4 for dependability. Might just have to tape over the upside down logo.
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The first coat of nitromors took the clear coat lacquer off and some of the decals and black paint in areas. A quick hose down and wire brish to roughen everything up ready for the second coat, this one gets left for much longer.