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I'm a suspicious type, I reckon the seatpost man uses temp difference and the "specialist tools" aren't the key to the job just to make his life easier.

Re frames cracking due to liquid nitrogen could this happen with a steel frame? Again being a suspicious type wouldn't the seatpost man obviously say it's dangerous, especially if it's the very method he uses?

I can't see how he can be using tools, specialist or not, that don't cause some damage.
There are only 4 methods as far as I can see.

1. Chemical erosion either complete (sodium hy etc) or partial, ammonia / coke etc.
   
2. Mechanical / force, puller or hitting it in further to loosen the bond.
   
3. Controlled destruction of seat post. ,i.e. cutting it out or reaming it out
   
4. Temp manipulation.
   
   

Is there another any other method that doesn't fall into one of the categories above?

I better head over to the conspiracy thread!!!

I've been wondering what his secret is especially as he claims to keep seatpost/seat tube and paint unscathed. I was gonna try to heat the seat tube and then quickly apply pipe freezing spray on/inside the seatpost to get some shrinking/expansion going on. Apparently alu shrinks a lot more than steel. As I've not tried it I didn't put it in my reply but I reckon it stands a good chance of working. The pipe freezing spray is about £10

Anybody ever tried it?

safest thing I reckon is the hacksaw blade. Cut seatpost almost flush with the top of the seat tube and then start cutting down lengthways. Have the blade cut on the up stroke. Once you are near to cutting through the alu seatpost you can "feel it" change you need to keep checking every 20-30 secs. If you're careful, and it's easy to be careful (it just slows things down) you will not damage the seat tube.

Some people have had success with ammonia but it's not guaranteed.
Of course there's always
http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

I got one out recently by drilling a hole thtough the post about middway up the part that was sticking out. I then bolted a sturdy 8mm nut and bolt through it, clamped the BB shell in a vice and twisted the seatpost with a large 4 feet sash clamp. I didn't try to do it one twist but rather gradually twisting and pushing a little further every time. When it freed up it went with a real bang so much so that I thought I'd popped a joint on the frame.
I should say that this frame is cromo not some lightweight racing frame.

good ta very much all thats re-assuring.

Ta for that but sorry I'm still not sure if my stem is the correct type.
It's this one, what do you think.
Cheers

Ta very much for your input. Its the version in your the first piccie, aheadset? So I'm good to go.

Ta for your input I appreciate it. I'm fairly sure the bars are 26 and stem is 25.4, why do you ask is it unusual ?
I'll have a crack at the cables I was a bit reluctant to trim too short.
Ta

I long thought I must have a go at this FG or SS thing but never really got going on it till I found a frame on here a couple of weeks back. It's Kona Paddy Wagon which came with a stuck seatpost and bottom bracket, which I knew about in advance. I bought it in this state mainly as I like tinkering but more becuase I'm tight. The headset is also kapout but again I knew about this.

I had quite a bit of stuff in the shed as I'm a hoarder so it's a "bitsa" and this is it almost ready to ride. There's still stuff to do obviously incl mudguards (i dont liek a wet arse), I need to learn how to wrap bars, probably fit bearings in the headset (without cages) as it's "notchey" or maybe a new headset. Sort out my oversized bar issue (26mm bars in a 25.4mm stem). Sort out the off-centre chainring (is that the correct term) for when the chain is tight in certain crank positions? Also sort out gearing ratio, I think it's something like 40/18 at present.

Do folks think the eyes on the rear end are up to taking a rack?
I ask as I assume they're for mudguards.

Quite stoked actually ow much progress I've made so far and I'm really keen to get out on it properly.

I was concerned about the braking ability of DP brakes as I've been riding with hydraulic discs for years but on my maiden trip around the block I was pleasantly surprised.

As per title I've realised that my drop bars, that I've just started using, are 26mm and all my ahead stems are 25.4mm.

I've read it's "dodgey" as it puts too much pressure on the bar and stresses it.

Am I OK or should I get a 26mm stem or new bars?

Thanks

paul chainkeeper arrived safe and sound. Ta

can I dibs the open sport rim pls pending a conversation re postage

After a rear silver preferably 57mm drop brake, dual pivot, recessed fitting.
Thanks

Pm incoming.

Have a look at this I've found it quite helpful.
http://www.ctc.org.uk/cyclists-library/components/wheels-tyres/tyre-sizes

Good luck

@Dammit
If it's a shared wall I think you'll need a PWA.

Here's where I found the info about EBBs being different thickness.
They're only 1mm each side, sorry I made a mistake.
http://handsonbike.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/avanti-inc-3-special-crankset-setup.html

I'd avoid external BB cranks as you have less ability to manipulate chainline.
I think road as opposed to mtb external bearings are thinner which might help but not by much. I think I read that road EBBs are 2.5mm thinner. Maybe if you used these and spaced your chainring with washers you could get closer.

Re the "how many sockets" on there at present I'd better go and do some more research.

OK what's the difference between a "skilled (electrically)" or "instructed (electrically)", I assume "instructed" is someone who's qualified and skilled is someone who has experience?

@diable
Sorry should have said ta for chipping in.

@diable
Extend a ring main with a couple of sockets, not in kitchen just in the lounge.

re Part P legislation is there not an area where a "competent person" can do some of their some of their own electrical works?

Ta for 2nd dibs'ing me, dont know that happened but obvs user error.

I used to use Bicycle Magic in Greatorex St and they used to be great however they closed down. Does anyone know did they start up elsewhere under another name or did some of the guys go to another shop?

I've never really found another shop that I liked much since they closed.
Cheers

PM'd re second dibs on the Kona Paddywagon.