-
-
-
-
-
In @M_V ‘s case I think it’ll be a case of finding a small long end can that is as long as bearable, then fabricating the up and over header/link pipe.
There are lots of bolt-on options that way once link pipe diameter has been set/swaged.
-
-
underserved
This is why a lot of us ended up with Dominator on our bikes. I think it’s too loud out the box, and too difficult to get a balance right (loud not obnoxious) with baffles.
I went through a number of amazon/aliex baffles to increase back pressure on the DR350, ended up with longest possible, minimum airflow holes, extra wadding inside.
Sound level reduced somewhat and pressure improved a bit.
The original Suzuki DR exhaust is a marvel of engineering. Super heavy with a maze of channels to reduce noise and increase pressure.
People open them and remove half the channeling to increase flow and lose some weight.
The key seems to be making it light, small, and not like a 19yo’s “my first lawnmower”.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Not sure I’d like to present my work, but the soldering iron is good.
Having mapped and soldered up nearly 10 broken traces (going straight to the component legs), I hate the wire off Amazon. Must be some AliExpress shit.
Anyway.
I now have a 50% improvement in that project, in that I’ve gone from 1 of three reels spinning to 2 of 3. Continuity with multimeter checks out across all the bodges, but no idea where the next problem is in the PCB. Maybe a component is fubar.
-
-
Does it come with the MTV flag?