Search results for:

25 on the park meter for sapim race is about right. The park guage over reads. so tension is about 1300N maybe a shade more. If the dish is good and tensions even they are good to go. Make sure you stress relieve fully. Really squeeze pairs of spokes until your hand really hurt. Then place the hub axle on a block of wood and push down on the rim a few times (spin the wheel in between so you load it in different places then flip it and repeat). Then put it back in the jig and see how true it is. If you have stress relieved properly the wheel will not budge. This trick however requires a stiff wheel. If you are building with a shallow rim just squeeze the spokes and placing on a block of wood and pushing is a bad idea.

A fully stress relieved wheel will not ping on the first ride or the second. If it does you have not stress relieved properly. It is now though.

you make 7 speed work with 8 speed shifters you have to set the indexing from the 4th cog otherwise over the other 7 cogs that 0.2mm difference adds up to 1.4mm which means a noisey low gear.

I would loosen the nipples of (if they are seized then cut the spoke) and replace one at time. Then tension and true up. The tension on other spokes will change it may not be a simple case of simply tensioning the spoke up. You may have some evening of tensions to do regardless of well the wheel was built the first time around.

Friction shifting solves all the cable pull compatability problems that you get with indexing.

I am on holiday in malta escaping to cold dreary weather. Back on the 14th. I was back on my bike 1 week and 1 day after 6 hours of surgury to fix the injuries. So yes i heal very quickly.

Novatec do thd d711 and d712 in silver. They are available in the u.k just talk to a shop with a whiskers account.

Insights. Never looked inside a ryde rim. They are light and stiff tyres can be a tight fit.

Never used CN spokes and never going to. I like Sapim spokes and I am sticking with them.

The ryde pulse sprint is the best of the light weight rims in that it is the stiffest. Also reliably round and flat. You can get a 24F/28r set of these down to 1220g but with silly light extralite hubs.

The odd archetype is not round enough but I have had more problems with velocity rims. Even hed rims are not perfect which they should be for the money they cost.

It really is very occasional and is a problem if it happens for the wheel builder not the rider who has paid for the work. Maybe one in a hundred rims maybe not even that. I have counted three archetype rims out of the hundreds that I have bought that I had to reject.

I do stock them me and tw both buy from the same place - a goldmine of goodies.

Thanks.

Then the kinlin xr22t and rt for the rear will work. A better rim in every way ckmpared to the r460. There is even a disc brake version.

The best palce for this job is a machine ahop not a bike shop as reamers for 22.2mm tubes are not common. There is a seatpost that size but that is used by bmx's. So maybe a very good bmx shop could help. I certajnly have never had to use one.

I think that became the rr415. Mo some people thinkmit is a terrible rim they are wrong. It is a rim where you must not exceed 1100N spoke tesnion. I also think the rider weight lkmit is 80kg. I have hada set 28H on miche hubs built with lasers front and rear. I am was 80kg when j ride them (front rim worn now waiting for a rebuild) and they have been fine. It is actually quite a stiff rim and a good reliable wheel will result if you do not exceed its design limits.

The new dt swiss rr440 has the same erd a bit heavier a bit wider and i have out a 120kg on that rim he loves his wheels.

Dont google erd measure it. Often published erds can be wrong. I am not near my computor to check my records of rim erd's. I have a spreadsheet i am sure the cxp33 is there.

The rrp is 34.99 and that will be a shipped price. They are in stock at madison. In hospital at present so i cant help.

With this rim dont be too fussy about a very round and straight wheel the rim wall wobbles a bit but it is no problem either.

The ither alternative us the kinlin xr22rts ocr. Same money but proper offset drilling. Lighter too.

Everything you need is here.
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=133744

What bb did you use. I am trying to find one but i dont know whag j need for a williams chajnset.

Oh i have one of these, they are lovely bikes. Modernised it will be great.

for many 10 speed freehubs taking 1.85mm of the shoulder works for 11 speed conversion but rear mech spoke clash is more likely.

Well you have all the bits to make a lovely bike. have you used spocalc to work out your spoke lengths? Have you measured the ERD of the rim yourself? If not to both then do both and see what the length you actually need are. you may also have a lacing error.

The DT rims is fine for the price but the few I have had have been acceptably round but that's it.
Shops don't like buying of bike24 much for obvious reasons. This means the DT Swiss R460 is turning into a home wheel builders rim only as only german websites ever seem to have it. this is another reason not to bother. It is a decent enough rim but if supply is an issue and a customer dents a rim what do I do then. sorry sir you'll have to wait 3 months is not a tenable reply. supply is even more problematic than when the archetype was popular (remember that). I had some on order in december for end January delivery but that has been put back to March. The customer got bored of waiting (I don't blame him) and I had to build with archetypes for the same price. That O.K once but you can't do it that often.

If you are making a £35 rim then make alot of them because it will be popular. Getting caught out like that is simply shoddy planning.

That what I think of everyone's new favourite rim.

I was lucky on ebay paid quite alot for them (but I was determined that they would be mine at almost any price) so no I am keeping them. Got a matching set for the front too. The tyre just fits in the frame. My philosphy is if you have clearance it is wasted space although the amount of clearance is a bit less than I would like for preservation of the paint but hey ho.

Yes I have a tub strapped under the saddle of a few of my bikes or I carry one in my back pocket along with a can of pitstop. Residual glue on the rim and the glue I have put on the base tape of the spare is enough to form a good strong bond when mounted. I paint alot of glue onto the rim when I initally prep it so when they day comes to pull a punctured tub of I have plenty of glue left. I have got back home on the spare and checked the bond and found it be very strong and just left it. They are less hassle than you think. I have 12 road bikes. 2 run tubeless tyres, 9 run tubs and one has clinchers but there is a tubular set of wheels waiting for it. That may give you a hint how much I hate and distrust tubes+ clinchers - they always let me down (except the challange strada bianca).

yes they popular if you have to wait a couple of months for a £35 rim then I would look elsewhere. It is a £35 rim not an HED Belgium+.

Tan sidewalls should be the law. Love that bike.