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I had a longer training ride today. The route is about as hilly as I can make it given where I am. No on else in the club want to do the route they all want a cafe stop with cake and a shorter ride. I had a stop in Sudbury for a flu jab does that count.
http://www.strava.com/activities/224813505

Well ever since a customer brought one into the shop I have been looking for one. 2 years later I found one I can 1) afford 2) is my size.

I took of the RX 100 components it came with and those are sitting in a box - I quite like them really. Folks on LFGSS have been quite helpful with part but the first mavic mech from a user actually failed. good thing it was cheap. Another on its way though. I intend this to be a french build eventually with the exception of the spokes which will be from Belgium and quite possibly the tyres.
Currently it has a mavic rear mech and headset. A new front mech will be fitted. Over time I will try to replace all the other parts with French one's. Rode it today and it was lovely.

Currently it has a middleburn chainset, SKF BB, 3ttt podium bars, Cinelli A1 stem, modolo brake levers (who made them for mavic), simplex friction shifters (again the mavic are rebranded version I think), Mavic 440 SSC brakes, transfil cables/casing (thats french at least), unknown seat post (I want a corima elipse post) and some orbea saddle. Wheels are archetype on chorus hubs.

Coming is a mavic starfish chainset and BB. I have some 32H GP4 rim but finding hubs that have a rear old of 130mm is proving hard. Happy with it though as it is. It rides really well.

love it

Sapim race are you other option for spokes. Given you are in the E.U they should not be too hard to find and may be cheaper.

Lacing takes 15 minutes. You can't just true a wheel that has been laced. It needs tensioneing, the tesnions evened out, dish correctting maybe, stress releiving then final truing. If all you are going to do is lacing save ypur self the bother and just ask the shop to the whole job you will save yourself 1/4 of the labour cost. Also if you mess up the lacing and the shop has to relace your bill goes up. Wheel building is the whole process if you are going to do do all of it, you be surprised what you can achieve with minimal tools and patience.

I don't like being in the middle. Being at the front feels alot safer (or near the front). Riding alot helps. I started racing last year but gave up as I simpley was not riding enough. The first few this year did not go well because I again was only doing 100miles-150 a week or so mostly in groups. After getting dropped in the CCS road race I decided not to group rides any more and train solo. Within a couple of weeks there was a huge improvement which I noticed in MTB races and in the last road race of this year I finished properly. Training solo not at other peoples pace is key.

I am upping my mileage to around 300miles a week for next year races. I think that will help me get the points I want.

I think you mean tubular rims not tubeless

I have aero wheels and love them and they do work. For training though I prefer "slower" wheels as they make me work a little bit harder. Same goes for training tyres they are always one with higher Crr.

The difference between the flo wheels and OP wheels will be more than 2W it could 15W @30moph at 30kph it would alot less maybe small handful of Watts. However most folk ride low spoke count wheels e.g. campag Zonda's and the difference between these and the flo's maybe in the order of <5W @30mph. don't get me wrong in a TT situation even if all you can do is a 19mph average aero wheels do make some difference it is real. I don't think the difference is dream like though you still have to work.

Miche Primato do fixed hubs in 28H. I have some on the way from Miche. BLB also sell there own hubs in 28H. Phil Wood and Paul do 28H hubs. Plenty of choice really.

It does not seem to affect the spokes though. Really this was a silly comment as if thos the nipple and spokes are the same grade of steel 18/8 inox then there would be no electroyic corroison so I take it back. I have no idea why stainless nipples are not used. I'll have to find out.

"maintaining a speed in excess of about 18mph feels dreamy." I was riding my 28 spoke shallow rimmed wheels last night on a heavy steel bike made heavier by gatorskin hardshell tyres. I had no trouble maintaining speeds above 18 mph in fact my average was nearly 18 mph and over 18 mph did not feel hard so was it dreamy - no I had to consentrate it was foggy! I think you need ride more.

aero wheels do work by I keep mine for racing/TT's, I train on "slower" wheels which turn out to be not much slower at all.

There is a good thread about these rims on weight weenies. People who have built with the rims have mixed views about them.

stainless steel will suffer from stress corrosion cracking, brought on by elytroyltic corrosion oddly enough. SS nipples are therefore a bad idea.

Grizzly 26W rims? The distributor is out of stock but they have many sputniks in 26"

coppaslip with alloy nipples works fine. However if the wheel never needs truing then a pottenially seized nipples are not really a problem. It does actually take a long time for sapim alloy nipples to seize. I have had to give up trying to try many a wheel with brass nipples due then being seized. Brass nipples are therefore not much better in the long run but they are cheaper. This is not a plug for alloy nipples as I mostly use brass but all my personal wheels have alloy nipples. Do I ever need to true them no I don't so I really don't care if they are seized or not.

I have a tifosi iso taper 70x111mm BB (made by token) £10 posted. As new but it has been fitted and then removed as there was a chainline issue for some reason I cannot remember why.

I think it is a 1987 model. Got this a short while back but I have bike similar so here it is, infact do I prefer this over the Marin? Not sure so the muddy Fox is for sale.

Spec
Brake calipers/levers: Dia compe these look period and are probably original
Shifters/mech: Suntour friction again these look orginal
Chainset: Sugino VP130
Freewheel: 6 speed 14-28T shimano does not look orginal
handlebars/stem/grips: muddy fox is stamped on the bars, the stem look original and so do the grips
Cables: I doubt these have ever been changed but they work so I have not touched them.
Hubs/wheels: Muddy fox hubs and Arya rims. Wheels are straight and hubs run free with no play. the front hub has been serviced by myself (new grade 10 balls popped in) and there is no cone or hub shell pitting.

Frame size is 21"
Tyres are Continental Travel contact (used but good) as the original rear is now in the bin. the oringal front is O.K condition and will be sent with the bike. Also a rack and rear mudguard have been removed and will be sent with the bike if you want them (other wise the bin beckons for them).

There are some paint chips (plenty on the DS chainstay) but the frame is sound and it rides well.

Given the good mechanical condition but not cosmetically perfect condition and orginality, the price is £180 shipped o.n.o in mainland u.K. Shipping to NI or the republic can be arranged but will cost more as would shipping to Isle of Skye and the like.

Photo's please fratello I might just have these.

I have a front wheel a light one too but none of what you want is on this wheel. Rim is Kinlin XR-200 spokes are black. Nipples are purple hub is black Novatec A291. IT weighs in at 600g but it is available if you change everything you want from the wheel!

They are the threaded freewheel hubs are they not? are they 700c. Price pic would be good and condition of brake track. What drilling as well?

Been on a buying spree and got a number of parts. Getting closer to putting this beauty together it will be so French.

That an achievement and a half.

yes if you call the shop . I do have the 771 and 772 hubs now. The aileron is a rim I have been using alot. Very nice as ugo says with a 450-460g average. The pacenti SL25 is one rim I need to try next but aileron rims are going on my disc brake bike when I eventually finsh it. Yes the 771/772 hubs are 440g for a pair and end caps for different axle standards are available. I am trying to get these on my next novatec order.

For a double 7400 chainset a 112mm BB is required am I right. So if a 42mm chainline on the outer ring is need a 104mm BB should do it. However as that is not made you will have to make do with a 103mm BB like the tange seiki LN3922 or LN7922 amongst others.

A close fitting breathable base layer like the one Altura do then I wear a short sleave top and a robaix top over this and that great until it gets below 5 degree's. This works when a damp too as the base layer keeps me warm even if the robaix top get quite wet.

Many thanks it coming together now.

Let me know the drilling of the rims

Thanks

Malcolm

I am certainly interested in the crankset and BB. pm me payment details please.

The cones I have. Wheels manufacturing make the axles now. I did have some. What length do you need.