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Yes of course it will the chainset does not know or care what the shifters are. Yes more tools needed for power torque. Up shift on the shifters is up to 3 gears and down shift is one at a time But it can be done quickly.

I have laser spokes In most of my rear wheels I ride alot Mdcc although I am careful to ensure the wheel is stiff enough for the rider. If I was building with an open pro I would not even dare use laser spokes as the resulting wheel would be too flexible.

An example is my rear wheel on my wet weather bike. 28 spoke DT Swiss rr415 on miche primato hubs laced up with lasers front and rear. It is light and stiff enough that it has never gone out of true. The rim has dine thousands of miles but the front is getting very worn now. Time to re rim soon. I am trying to push very last miles out of it. Using race or comp spokes always on the rear wil do no harm mdcc but sometimes for some wheels it is unnecessary for some riders.

Mi7rennie For the retro mtb wheels. T780 XT hubs on mavic xm317 rims for a build with new parts or if you want period find m730 front hub and m732 rear And lace to period rims.

I actually have new m732 hubs with a 130mm spacing in stock but no front hubs. All these are shimano. The other alternative is to use a road hub as it has the right spacing. A miche primato or RG2 hub or a shimano 105 10 speed hub will quite happily cope with off road use. 7 speed cassettes can be fitted if you use a 4.54.5mm spacer

If a well built goes out of true in a crash it is normally because of real damage that will not true out hence to me it is all a none issue.

Rev spokes for use in a rear wheel require a stiff rim and a hub that gives good bracing angles if these two are picked then a wheel built with revs or laser'ss can be very stiff radially, later rally and torsional so it will survive a 9 kg rider for a long time. If however a open pro rim is picked then revs won't work no matter your weight. Stating blanket bans of things like this is not very helpful as altho so people riding wheels built with cxray spokes (ssame stiffness as a laser or rev) would have constant problems and they don't.

5500 bb are available so are the 7700 but the 6500 are no longer made.

I build with sapim alloy nappies a fair bit and I can assure they do seize eventually although it does take alot of wet weather riding. If you use an anti seize compound or sapim nipple freeze (a week loctite) on the threads then this maybe avoided but as I said is the trick is to build a wheel which is stiff enough with good even tension that it never goes out of true. If you do this you never have to worry about the nipples being seized. Brass nappies can become difficult to turn on wheels ride in lots of wet weather but that is more grit in the threads rather than corrosion. The effect is the same though.

CleanING the wheels after you have ride on gritted roads may not help as the salt solution has got into the threads and you won't wash it out. Also oil dropped onto the threads will not get into the threads. When building if I find a nipple that it tight to turn dropping oil onto it does not help. I have unwind it and oil the threads then screw it back on.

They are not always round though. A gator skin tub is not too expensive and is round, durable, puncture resistant and rolls pretty well. No point in these low cost tubs as riding a gator skin clincher is almost preferable, I very tried.

radial lacing to go back a few post is only stiffer than 2x if it laced head in wich is norally bad for the flanges. Other wise if laced radial head out the reduction in bracing angle reduces stiffness but as the spokes are shorter then this make up for that so over all heads out radial and 2x lacing end up giving a front wheel the same or similar stiffness.

Lots of shops sell spokes I do. Does Just riding along charge postage? The reason why your easton suffered wind up is the problem when trying to true a wheel with alloy nipples. The intial build would not have much wind up but corrosion leads to wind up. If building with alloy nipples the wheels must be stiff enough and have even tension not to ever go out of true or not worry when you see 0.5mm of wobble and just live with it.

I have a Vitus 992 which is becoming more french. Currently most of the kit has come of forums members in france oddly wnough for french kit.

I do require however a Vitus 25.4mm seat post a a suitable french saddle. Then it will be nearly done.

Amyone got any thing. A Giles Berthaud saddle would be perfect I think and the flatter it is the better.

This is the wrong section. Can it be moved? Post is definatley 25.4mm according to my vernier.

ugo santiago and arup are the only two I know worth talking too.

The other causes are bend in your outer cables that are too tight or other causes of excess friction.

To set up you gears.
1) drop in the smallest cog
2) undo the anchor bolt and ensure your shifter has no clicks to go.
3) Ensure the the top jockey wheel is the middle of the smallest. Ajudt the limit screw if it isn't
4) pull the cable taught and anchor
5) use the shifter to shift up one gear and down shift
6) if 5) does not happen then use the barrel adjuster. Turning it out adds tension and will help it shift up. Turning releases cable tensions and aids the down shift.
Once you have it going the first two cogs cleanly the others will be right too. You could be done in two minutes.

I have a Vitus 992 which is becoming more french. Currently most of the kit has come of forums members in france oddly wnough for french kit.

I do require however a Vitus 25.4mm seat post a a suitable french saddle. Then it will be nearly done.

Amyone got any thing. A Giles Berthaud saddle would be perfect I think and the flatter it is the better.

Track hub from Miche are available in 24H and 28H. They also have better geometry than the novatec hubs which other wise are pretty good.

The is the Ryde pulse comp expained.
Pulse comp - narrow
Pulse comp 5mm off set for the rear only -wide
Pulse comp symetric - wide

three versions now ugo.

Miche Primato hubs can be had in 28H front 32H rear fixed free though. I have some. BLB do a muber of single hubs (own brand) in 28H and 32H rear. They also do those Victore hubs or however it's spelt in singles. All they do is pretty much fixed only hubs.

Sapim make a very good 4 sided spoke nipple key. It's my favourite as the Park one can distort nipples. I use the Park key to the first few turns as its quicker then switch to the Sapim key when the tension rises.

If you can place the frame on black of wood so it lies flat with a block of wood under the BB shell but with a BB sized hole in it. Then hit the axle with a lump hammer. It should be forced out eventually. so long as the frame is properly support the frame won't be harmed.

A microphone + frequency analsyer would be good but it also is so much work for so little gain. First the crossing points of the spokes may effect frequency at a given tension, testing would be required to figure that out. Then if this is the case, ERD difference and flange PCD difference will change were those crossing points are. Easton build wheels which are consistant in that regard so they do not have to worry about such effects if they are even important.

So given the work involved get this to work and the fact it may not work any better than DT Swiss Tensio for example I will stick with the tried and tested method. You make it sound like that those who use a tension gauge don't know what they are doing, We do we just do it differently to you! Oh it's not crude either. I have created a spoke tension calibration jig and you what, the deflection readings I get are consistant. I also happen to know what they should be rather than what the chart says (which actually is correct for the DT guage). Some gauges like the Sapim or Park tools TM-1 are not overly consistant. I have all three!

2000 miles is nothing. They will be great wheels.

SA 3 speed shifting is reliable. A cable stop problem will be the cause. It is fixable. You need a actual stop not a cable guide clamp to hold the outer in place because it won't.

80.5 gear inch WTF! That's huge. Single speed for urban commuting even with hills shoudl not be a problem if the gear is low enough. When I had a SS I had it geared at 70" and that was too high realy. 67" and spin would have been better.

You can also put sealant in your inner tube in addition to a swchwable marathon plus and punctures will be so unlikely an ice age is more likely to happen first.

I know you can find the pitch of a spoke and relate to tension but when ever I pluck spokes of the same tension I can't tell if the pitch is the same sometimes. A good tension gauge (DT Swiss Tensio) makes it more reliable for me (and it will for other too). Some will build a reliable wheel by pitch alone and great if you can (some don't though) others like me need the tool as quite frankly I am tone deaf and deaf in one ear and hearing in the other is O.K but not great. Also an increase in volume to me sounds like a change in pitch. Not everyone has a musical ear! My feel of tension by hand is better than my ability to guage it by pitch. I also used to be a physics teacher so I like to measure stuff, other's from a different background are happy to judge.

Emyr XTR hubs though are perfect in every way. XT are pretty good though.

The thread chaser will cut new thread but it is hard on the tool and it is not ideal. My prefered solution is pick another headset. What is your stack height needed for the current threaded section.

cross laced is not "stronger" than radial. Radial is fine for 20H or 24H wheel. 28H wheel especially with small flanges have spoke holes close together so why take the small risk of flange failure. crossed lacing is best for higher spoke count.

Alpine spokes are triple butted. Sapim make the force spoke if you can find them. Triple butted spokes (2.3mm elblow) are more fatigue resistant.

Record hubs are perfect and I really mean that. The perfect design shame it is the model T of hubs just one version now. I roll around on Chorus 32H or Record 28H hubs and given they will last a lifetime I will be rolling around on the for some time to come. Enjoy.

I have seen many wheels handbuilt that have come in the shop. most have tension way too low. I suspect they have been built without a tension guage. 1200N DS rear is what is needed, how do you know what that is without a tension guage. Length change the note so unless your ear is tuned to a tollerance of a hew hertz a tension meter is very useful to guage absolute tension. Getting tension to within +/-5% of the average for one side is hard without a tension gauge again you need a very musical ear. higher spoke count wheels are actually very forgiving which is why dron above has sucess. His tension may vary a bit than what I do but the wheel will probably last well. It the lower spoke count wheels that suffer quickly if poorly tensioned. Still if you are building wheels £60 spent on the PArk Tool TM-1 to guage relative tension is money well spent. To gauge absolute tension take away 10% from the tension suggested by the chart on a sapim race or DT comp to get you in the ball park.

The park tool socket has fitted every square taper crank bolt/crank I have tried it on. It is a slim socket which is what is needed. I mostly use the 14 or 15mm socket in the Park tool socket kit and a rachet. When you get it out fit an allen key bolt.

I am not sure using a computor adds anything to riding actually. Used to ride without one for a long time. Do I enjoying riding with one now any more no. Maybe I should stop using it.