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Type b1 refers to an older freehub ugo. Type b2 is all novatec make now and that is availanle in 10 speed and 11 speed form. They happen to be interchangable i.e type b2 will fit a hub with a b1 freehub but not the other way around. Also 11 speed freehubs work fine on mtb hubs with a 10 speed freehub. You just. Have to use the spacer that comes with it.

I agree wit the above. The only archetype i had to reject after well hundreds was one last week. It had a serious bump at the weld join but that is not a bad record. The archetype continues to be a good rim depsite what strada say.

Its a 1 1/8 headtube but that does not define the angle the bearing seats are cut too. If its 41.1mm then it is the cane creek standard but There is the campagnolo standard at 41.9mm and fsa Satandard at 41.6mm.

See this http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards

Just bought 1000 grade 10 chrome balls 5/32 for headsets from simply bearings for £35. They sell them in packs of 10 also.

Campagnolo record, stronglight a9 all have the right stack height. So does the more expensive shimano da 7410 headset.

Nothing wrong with tange headsets they work well But the stack is too short by a few mm.

Maybe my logic is faulty on washer but those spoke holes in those campagnolo hubs were a funny shape and bigger than they were when new that is the main reason i did on those hubs.

The difference between the zenith and the zenith endurance hubs is the bearings. The standard hub has nbk and the endurance has ezo. Rsi cycles claim this improves bearing life. It does not though. Bearing life is quite similar. It maybe down to how parallel the bores of the bearings seats are. If you want really high end bearings fork out for ntn as ina is second best. Ezo and nbk actally have the same grade abec-5.

Novatec make the zenith hub. The novatec version is called the a171/ f172. These are decent enough hubs with 6001 main shell bearings for the rear. The novatec hubs with bearing life issues are the a291/F482. These use small bearings but there is something about the hub design that contributes too. The light weight novatec hubs are race day hubs, fine for a season crit and road racing, then change the bearings at the end of the year. They are not much good for training which tends to happen all year round. So the novatec/Zenith hubs are fine for training and all weather use the lighter novatec hubs which by the way are rebranded as a zenith light weight hub.

The best hub for long bearkng life though without shelling out for hope hubs which are quite good is miche primato or rg2 hubs. Big 6001 bearings front and rear and they are really simple to work on. I have used hundreds of these and the problems morehave been very few and limited to a couple of broken freehub body pawl springs. So the poster could try the ambrosio hubs or the novatec version or the miche hubs. Ultegra hubs are a bit more expensive but if you look after them they will do stellar mileage. Campagnolo record hubs which can have a shimano freehub fitted, are lighter and not much more expensive than hope hubs but are quite perfect.

The dt swiss rr440 rims are very good. The asymetric option makes this a useful rim option over the other. Shame it is not wider or it would be more popular.

If your hub flange is less than 3.2mm thick i thick spoke washers are a good idea. Did that with some old campagnolo record hubs that look like they have been rebuilt a few times before it would be a shame for them to crack they are so smooth. To the guy with a cracked hub flange an 18h silver hub is not an eash find. Royce is the only one i can think of. Ther mid flange hub might have the right pcd.

It my size maryann 485gbp shipped if so id be daft not too.

I have to add it to my carbon steerer as play developed in the headset. Since i put carbon paste on the problem has gone away. Had to do this on two of my bikes. It hit and mis whether you have to do it or not. Carbon paste is something you should have if you have anything carbon fibre on your bike.

They wont be worn, it is practically impossible to wear a rim out in that distance. A rim has to have less than 1mm on the brake track before i suggest to anyone they should retire it as those last 0.2mm can go rather quickly. You will see tne rim go very concave when it worn. Id find another shop to do the rebuild they obviously want to sell you new rims.

I really need to try not interlacing to see what effect it has. If you are right ugo it should be something you can feel while loading the rim with the axle on a block of wood. I am not sure why i have always interlaced spokes apart from ot is what i have always done.

i would have to look up all my old texts on this from my degree to debate this one properly but i think you may be right. The low tension results in many spoke going slack and there fore earlh spoke breakage. Important to correct these mistakes.

Not interlacing should in theory not make any difference to lateral wheel stiffnes but as I have not tried I cannot confirm this.

If the spokes are slack every revoultion of the wheel results in some lateral and radial delfection (as well as torsional strain) which results in a change of tension of the affected spokes.

If the tension is say X and the tension change is x then the bigger x/X is (i.e drop the tension and that will magically increase) the faster fatigue happens. Essentially what has been said above in repsonse is true. The more flex a wheel has the faster spokes fatigue so the stiffer the wheel the slower this happens. The higher the tension (not related to stiffness) the slower this happens. Set the tension too high and the rim crack (or in the case of Zipp hubs the hub flange)
It's all a balancing act but thankfully the receipe is well known to some.

What ugo says about DT Spokes vs sapim is very true which is why I use sapim.

If rat races wheelbuilding is as good as you say he won't need plugs the cyclist have a way of sniffing out the good shops. good luck to pete there should be more good shop based wheelbuilders.

RRP's are made up buy the distributor and it based on what customers a willing to pay. I am not sure about madisons margins but I don't think they are as big as you might think. I wouldn't be surprised if Madison have to pay more than Rose do for the same spokes. Madison don't get to sell DT Swiss wheels and forks which will limit the size of there orders and the discounts they get. Don't know for sure but I doubt it is a simple case of price gouging.

Never tried not interlacing be interesting to see what difference it makes. Novatec a171 f172 hubs are half the price of ultegra hubs. Spare are available. On that basis they are not a bad choice they are even reliable. You could always use miche rg2 hubs these are very reliable.

My own experinece is a record 10 speed or 11 speed chain give me more miles before i have to change them. I use campagnolo guide for measuring chain wear to decide this.

I do use kmc chains but they do wear out a bit quicker. The only chain i have got over 2000 miles from is a record chain. my last chorus chain did 1500 miles before campagnolo says it worn. It god a record now.

I have never had to remove a chain from my bike Until it needs changing.

kmc chains though do run fine on camagnolo drive trains not tried them though on the new 2015 omes though. The links are reliable.

If working on a bike use the correct tools If you dont want to buy them then take the job to a shop.

Summary if you have a top end camapagnolo groupset then the correct chain is the best thing for it. If you have the money for record then you have the money for the tools to join the chain it needs. It a bit like buying a bmw m6 and balking at the cost of servicing.

I have a catalogue with almost every single campafnolo spare listed. Any good shop though should be able to get them. Best go to shops for this rather than on line.

Veloce cassette spacer are of diiferent width and need to go in a particular order too.

2x is the only lsving ypu can do. 3x simply wont work.

Watch the square washers they will want to turn and out dents in your rim. Tricky things to work on had to rebuild one once and I vowed never again.

Plus gas Ugo and op that a proper penetrative fluid. We 40 is dish water in comparison.

Campagnolo have taken this part of there price list. Thankfully your frame just needs a standard bolt.

I would pick the velocity deep v in 650c size my self. Quite fancy a low pro myself.

Chrome balls are more resistant to pitting than stainless balls you have to keep them greased though. grade 10 balls are the best to buy and hubs rebuilt with these feel like da or campagnolo record hubs. Hardress of the balls is not that relevant to hub wear as the cups and cones are harder. Also it is the higher the grade the rounder the balls and the smaller the variation in diameter in the batch and this makes a bigger difference. I use grade 10 chrome balls when servicing any hub the balls are cheap and given the low cost it is simply not worth skimping on.

oh the thread has moved why does my browser always go to the penultimate page meaning I end up posting on what has already passed.

Coppaslip on the the threads is good idea to help getting them off.