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Servicng these hubs is pretty simple. If it has a threaded axle though one of the bearing cups is nomlonger made which is a pain. The other is available though. Cyclus do tools to remove and press jn these cups, these are needed as removing them without them would be a pain. For conventional thread axle hubs it is a simple case of cone spanners to remove the axle and take it apart. Rear cones for threaded axles are jot available either.mknly the cones for the track hubs. These are a bit shorter which hub adjustment interesting but possible for the patient. Freehub bosies for these old hubs are extint so if the bearing are goosed then soaked in plus gas and then use wheels manufacturing bearing pullers to get the buggers out. The inner bearing is held by a circlip and is a pain to remove.

For the later 9 speed wheels the hb re100 servoce kit should be used. Agajn cyclus do the tools to remove and press in the cups. But the service kit for one wheel is 40 quid. Worse is the freehub body which if its the fh re415 you will be 85 quid poorer. Bearing removal and replacemnt maybe worth it.

A proper bike shop should be able to do this. If they know whag they are doing they cant damage the hub. I thjnk you should find a better shop thag know campagnolo kit. Condor cycles whould be able to help if you are london.

Gravitational constant is lower in certain parts italy, its an anomoly no physist has been able to explain.

The wheels are on target weight then just not the rims. I have no problem with rims weighing 485g if they are advertised as such.

Ill have to check that but i thjnk miche hubs use normal threading. It is campagnolo hubs that have 10x 26tpi threading i.e not normal.

Rubbish. The bearings in novatec hubs are not better than those found in miche hubs. In fact the ezo bearings used in some novatec hubs dont seem epecially special at all. I struggle to find a difference in life between these and the supposidly lower spec nbk bearings. Oh wait they are both the same grade bearing thats why. What is wrong with the alloy used in miche hubs? So long as the flanges dont crack the alloy is good, the alloy used in novatec hubs polishes up better, is that better or is that asthetics. I think we have run into the problem of defining better. Better seems to mean more reliable from your reply but i have never found any novatec hub being more reliable than a miche in some cases it the reverse.

I have nothing against novatec hubs i have something against this idea of better being vauge, simply saying they are superior without explain specifially what that means irrates me on a day inhave been irrated by other things Sorry to rant its been a bad day and this thread got it.

Why would you think they wouldnt fit is the better question. The rims will take tyres much much wider.

Why are the novatec hubs superior then. Bracing angles on some models are lower.

mever seen v2 octalink 5500 bb yet. All the ones madison get are v1 maybe buy from the u.k.

Really got a box full of 28h rear miche track hubs.

well if they called it r485 then it would be fine. Other rims manage to come at claimed weights and as the extrusions dies wears weight will only go one way.other dt rims have been spot on.

Wheels manufacturing do a whole range of cones. Look on there website and match it up then contact your lbs that deals with madison as they distribute them, if you are lucky your lbs might stock the entire range it not expensive to do so it worth while shops doing this.

Got hold of the first pair of dt swiss r460 rims today in 24h and 28h but they are seriously over weight at 485g. This is disapointing for a 23mm deep rim. At least madison have stock now.

For which hub exactly. If it current production i might be able to help but i cant thjnk of current hub they make that has cones except for the really cheap oem offerings.

Still waiting ina reply from mario asking for prices for irc tyres. Going to try the hutchinson sector 28s soon as they are at least available.

My bad the R460 rim is sleeved. Just heard so many talk about being pinned I that had become true.

If they are the double ended kits then they will be campagnolo compatible. they don't need to be ultra shift compatible as the cables used by campagnolo have not changed for a long time. About the only thing they have not changed. Campagnolo cables anyway are the best you can buy bar none.

edit powercordz are pretty good too but expensive for the weight saving.

The r460 rim is pin joined though. The rr40 rim is welded. The r460 is 18mm internal width and 23mm external and the rr440 is 16mm internal 21mm external width. The rim width should give it away which rim is used. i am not clear anymore about what wheel uses what rim. Rim weight though is not why a modern wheelset feels zippy it is the lateral stiffness i think.

The new R24 might be the one using the R460 rim in which case that is wide and I take it back they might actually be a good buy. the R23 used a rim similar or maybe the same as the RR440 rim which is not that wide and combined with low spoke count and narrow flange seperation on the rear hub meant a flexible rear wheel. Could be getting my DT wheels mixed up sorry if I have.

Oddly enough though lower the spoke count barley makes any difference to aero drag. Zipp did test and published them and they found going from 16 spoke to 24 spoke front wheels changed the drag by less than the margin of error in the measurements. the aero spokes will make some difference but not alot even at 30 mph but there is not alot of data admitidly to support any view point on this. Have you tried holding 30 mph on the flat solo its hard work what ever wheels you have. Tried this in a race on Sunday lasted 2 miles on the front pulling the pack along (into a bit of wind) and had to give it rest after that and was only 25 mph average! 30 mph would have killed me. So for normal speed I personally would not worry about which wheel is marginally more aero than another. So its looking like the DT Swiss R24 wheels now.

In reply to figon hold a campagnolo record hub in your hand and a fulcrum hub and there is no difference in weight. Modern dura ace hubs are not heavy either. I build wheelset with these that are around 1470g.

My 25 year old dura ace hubs are perfect, just serviced them and inside perfection. If the ops hubs are worn then that is different but just renewing the grease can make a world of dofference to these. I would get them serviced properly and maybe get them rebuilt onto a pair of h plus archetype rims If the op wants to keep using them. If not get them serviced and sell them hell i might even buy them if the freehub is good as these are hard to find now.

in reply to the above comment yes the wheels i suggested will offer a better ride and "out perform" these dt swiss wheels. They may cost more but they will be stiffer (Dt swiss wheels are not stiff laterally) and that helps how they "feel faster" and the wider rim means a larger tyre volume which actually in theory reduces rolling resistance on smooth surfaces. In practice a 23mm tyre ona wider rim make the wheels roll faster over bumpy roads than a 23mm tyre on a narrower rim and handle better in the bends due to less sidewall flex.

Yes modern cheaper factory wheels give that zippy sensation but without making you any faster.

Hub rolling resistance is not a factor in how fast you go. Those shimano dura ace hubs if on good order will consume 1 to 2w at 30 mph. Changing tyres will make a big difference if the op is riding on gator skins. The problem with switching to lighter rims is i have tried and while the bike feels a bit lighter when putting power down it does not seem to translate to extra speed. My race bike has rims that are 500g each, they are deep and aero they dont slow me down.

I will go back to my example of two wheelset both in the 2kg region.
1) MAVIC MR601 hubs 24H on Mavic Cx14 rims (rims are 575g) these feel quick but i have race tyres on them (conti Gp4000s). So it is not rim weight that makes these wheels feel quick.
2) ambrosio nemesis rim (465g each) on dura ace 7400/3 hubs 32F36R but with vittoria Pave tubs these feel alot slower but in i know it the tyres not the weight of the wheels. They are not very aero either.

Saving 200g on your wheelset will make jack all difference to how fast you go. so fulcrum racing 7s will not make you much faster. The wheels are bit more aero which helps a bit but the difference will be around 10-15W at 30mph. At 18 mph thats down to less 5W maybe 2 or 3W i.e naff all.

Your pinarello is going to be alloy frame if it like mine. Not sure when they stopped making steel frames. Old steel can be great. My race bike is a 1991 sannino (columbus genius steel tubing) and i have that kitted out with very modern kit. it feels modern and is a very quick bike but there is no way the pinarello i have is ever going to feel like that bike no matter how much i spend on it so i have not bothered.

In short if you want ot improve the feel of your pinarello do fit conti gp4000s or vittoria open corsa tyres and see how you like it then. Try latex tubes too as they lower rolling resistance. This two changes will male a difference to how fast you ride. If you then want to change the wheels get some built using a modern wide rim rather than the narrow one the likes of mavic and shimano are using. Wider rims are stiffer and therefore spoke count can be safely dropped while still having a stiff wheel Using light thin spokes. Also wider rims improve ride comfort and road holding and this also makes a real difference to how fast you ride. Think something like grey h plus son archetypes on silver novatec a171/f172 hubs with silver sapim laser spokes 24f/28r. This is a light and stiff wheelset that will out peform all the factory wheelsets priced around £300. Changing ghe groupset will not make much difference unless you have an issue with the gear ratios.

That what i would do if you want to improve the feel of the bike but it will cost and will it make you enjoy riding it more well that for you to decide.

They do rock but rember this bike is from 1992 it rocked back then and it still does but no as a race bike today. Love my pinarello but not for quick rides but i can still average 17 to 18 mph on it solo so it not too bad.

also with a fixed gear build you only have to tension the rear wheel to 1000N and these light rims wont be able to handle much more that.

Spoke tension does not affect stiffness edscoble. low spoke tension does however affect the ammount of side load that can be applied before spokes go slack. when this happens at low load it means your wheels are not very stiff but increasing the spoke tension does not alter the stiffness in N/mm but it does raise the ammount of load that has to be applied before spokes go slack. This is often confused with spoke tension affecting tension. I can see why the confusion results.

Tubulars are by far the lightest. Got a pair of mavic gel280 rims in 28h hanging up. 305 g each.

The problem with all very light and narrow clincher box section is they are hopeless unstiff. You end up having up the spoke count and use thicker spokes to get it to hold together and to give it resonable stiffness.

Those mavic i have will be laced to fixed gear hubs that should work fine. So if you do buy those am classic rims i hope they are going to be used with fixed gear hub that could work.