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Lateral stiffness is very important by my own experience is while spoke diameter and count are important in wheel for lateral stiffness if you pick a wide medium depth stiff rim and a hub with good bracing angles the changing spoke count and spoke diameter makes little practical difference as the wheel is simply stiff.

For a wheel with an Open Pro rim then spoke gauge and spoke count makes the difference between a wheel that last and one that doesn't.

The mavic CXP33 is a bit heavy but that is not the issue but it is narrow. You will enjoy riding a wider rim like the Kinlin XC-279 or the new XR22T (superstar sell these but call them something else). Your LBS should be able to get the kinlin if they have a whiskers account.

The DT Swiss r460 is another option for a wide medium depth rims. All these rims are under £40 but wide and lighter than the mavic.

Nothing wrong with DT comps but sapim race are normally cheaper.

I have not searched google for that rim so no idea where I would come up. It is one I hardly ever get asked to use it not very popular. I suggested it because it is wide, stiff and cheap no other reason. Superstar probably do them cheaper than I can anyway.

That the paper I have just quoted!

for radial lacing

radial wheel stiffness is = rim stiffness/(1+(rim stiffness/spoke stiffness)) This comes from the way the stiffnesses add
1/wheel stiffness = 1/rim stiffness + 1/spoke stiffness
If you do the algebra it works out. Spoke stiffness much higher than that of the rim stiffness at least so the bottom term tends to one (this is an edit) hence spoke stiffness is not a major contributing factor to radial stiffness although it will have an impact.

Radial stiffness that Halo aero range 32H with rev spokes is going to be pretty high and I doubt it would be higher with 24 comp spokes as you suggested.

This paper make interesting reading if you can follow the maths. http://opus.bath.ac.uk/1418/1/Vogwell_P
Putting actual numbers into the maths though is hard as there are few about which is a shame.

Measure the pcd but I think your best bet is a novatec d712 hub and new spokes.

Building with 32 rev spokes rear can give longer spoke life than 24 comps with the same rim. The rim stiffness and bracing angle has a bigger impact on wheel stiffness than spoke gauge or spoke count.

For radial stiffness maths proves that the spokes have almost no influence, it is all dictated by the rim. For lateral stiffness rim stiffness and bracing angles are key, spokes third. You can see this if you build with say a miche hub and an archetype rim in 24h 28h 32h and 36h with laser or race spokes. As the spoke count increases with either spoke the lateral wheel stiffnes does not increase by as much as you might think. With a narrow shallow rim like the open pro which not stiff at all spokes are more important.

So if you want to drop spoke count make sure the rim is of the wide medium depth variety. The halo rim you have picked is narrow I think so I would go down to 24 on the rear unless it is 30mm deep.

My suggestion for a rim is the kinlin xc279 24f28r with laser front and ends rear, race D's rear. This will be a stiff responsive wheel on a wide rim that will last you if you build it right.lace them to a set oif novatec a171f172 hubs or miche. It may cost more than you planned but it will do the job very well.

The bearings in those planet x al30 wheels won't last 500 miles in winter conditions. Same goes for the hubs in all cheap wheels they wear out quickly. Buy cheap buy several times.

What hub do you have is a low flange rim brake MTB hub if so they areall of similar dimensions in which case any old shimano hub like a lx m565 or xt 737 or the modern t780 hubs will fit.

To adjust chain line get some 1mm cassette spacers to fine tune chain line.

Opps that would cause all manor of problems.

The fact there are no bikes on trains and I live somewhere where the train does not go means I will be riding down and have to ride back. What a shame that I have to spend more time on my bike. I dont know how I will cope.

It is also a shame the weather is so good. There is nothing like bad weather to make a ride more memorable, it did not say fun just memorable.

Your ERD measurment must be wrong for you to come with spokes that are 4mm too long. you have measured the ERD haven't you rather than assuming a number taken of the web?

I cant remember the build you are doing but with lasers I always round down because they do "stretch". After stress relieving there is quite a big tension drop and if you round up by 0.2mm you can end up running out of thread and get wind up which is simply a pain. I have learnt how much you can round down and up to 1.5mm with laser generally causes no problems. Also laser come in odd mm lengths only. Even with sapim race spokes I tend to round down as rounding up can causing dishing issues unless I am using black race spokes then I sometimes have to round up as they come in 2mm increments also.

Pick a hub with similar hub dimensions. Simples.

Mavic EX721 or the 729 are robust.

I use a average weight of 440g for the OP but that was determined a couple of years ago. I stopped building with them because they are not popular so pointless holding stock, they wear out quickly (typically 5000 miles or so for the customers I know) and the resulting wheel even with 32 spokes is not overly stiff unless plain guage spokes are used and a 10 speed shimano hub then it is adaquate. You cannot have a light wheelset with the Open Pro rim that is also stable.

With the Ryde Pulse sprint you do get a rim with a thin brake track but it is wide with all the benefits that brings. also the rim is alot stiffer meaning a 28 spoke rear with sapim laser or CX-ray spokes is a stiffer wheel than a Open Pro 32H with plain gauge spokes and a shimano 10 speed hub. So in my view it is worth the extra money and you can actually have a light wheel as well.

The Open Pro was a fine rim 10 years ago but things have moved on. If a new version came out then maybe it would be a benchmark again but the DT Swiss R460, H Plus Son Archetype and a couple of Kinlin rims have that crown now for a wide 450g-485g rim which are also wide. The Ryde Pulse Sprint' brake track is a bit thin to make it an all weather rim. Also Hutchinson tubeless tyres cause a big tension drop but they do that to other rims too.

The stiffness of a spoke though is dependent on its cross sectional area. A very stiff rim would have to be used if super CX spokes are used. Given the expense of the spoke though I dont think they are worth it. Weight saving is not huge.

Carbon fibre grip is something I have to use on alot of aluminium parts like my seat post in my MTB's, my extension bars on my TT bike. I have taken to applying to everything that can slip because you never know.

A vernier caliper will tell you the seat tube ID if you don't own one buy one it is so useful.

Spares Eurus rims are listed at around £110 each. There is a 21H rim at £90

Probably not worth re building, which is the same story with most factory wheels.

ryde Pulse Sprint is 390g and seems not to crack so long tension are keep under 1200N and rider weight is not too high I think the limit is around 80kg. The old stans 340 rims where too light and did crack the newer version is better. The Kinlin XR-200 is one I have used a few time and again has not cracked to my knowledge (mine certainly have not) but again spoke tension and rider weight are the enemies of these rims.

for 390g rims keep tensions no higher than 1200N for DS 1150N is better and riders weight to less than 80kg but the lighter the better. this will keep problems to a minimum.

What do you want to know about the novatec hubs. A bit confused what you are asking.

Ryde pulse sprint is 385g wide and quite stiff. Also available from U.K dealers.

Keep i simple use normal brass nipples and a 4 sided nipple key never rounded a nipple of with a sapim key. If you get the wheel building hkt right you will never need to take a spoke key to the wheels unless they take a nasty knock. Use a tension meter, dt swiss tensio is the best. Shoot for 1200N ds rear and get tensions even to +/-5%. Do not owrry about turing radially, as if you get the tensions even the wheel will sort it self out. All you will have tl domis true latterally and stress releive. This is the most important part of the build and cannot be done enough. There will a tension drop when stress releiving so raise them when you see that and you should continue until the wheel no longer goes out of true when stressed. Do it right and all will be well.

Also never found the sapim hex driver any quicker than a normal spoke key.

Steve erd is 593mm, 592 is on the short side but will still give the same results.

Front laser 289mm rear ds race 288mm rear nds laser 289mm. 12mm nipples work but you have to careful or you might scratch the rim. Sapim spokes come with 12mm nipples so just be careful and tension with a 4 sided nipple key as you cant let the tool sit against rim.

Just seen this never seen any miche hub suffer a failure due to cracking. Have had many issues with some novatec hubs though for example the f482 sb sl hub with there more expensive ezo bearings suffering bearing failures on the first ride. Stopped selling that hub now after that. So yes the worlds leading hub manufacturer is great at everything they do.

i'm struggling to see a crack.

Mtb cranks have a 47.5mm chainline with right bb. Given the chjnring spacing is 5mm half that means a 50mm chainline for the outer ring. Of course mtbs with fat stays needed a 50mm chainline but square taper chainsets all were made with two bb lengths in mind for the two differing chainlines.