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Built with thousands of alloy nipples though and no problems. Brass nipples work fine but with thin spokes they can cause more wind up than alloy nipples. Corrosion does not seem to be a big issue either.

Shimano dh-3d72 and dh-s501 hubs are offset. Get one of these to use the kinlin rims

Enjoyed a wee dram of jefferson bourbon tonight. Also enjoying a bottle nikka and jura. Really need a bottle of llagavulin next.

From those photos the feame looks fine. The chainstay just looks paint chipped. For the momey it is worth a punt.

Remember i am not a photographer i dontbyhink i have ever managed to take a good photo of anything. bottle cages are there to hold a bottle beyond that i could not care less. I need some different wheels in it but currently i just dont have the spare time to build them. I think they are a marmite bike you either get it or you don't. The proteam colours where last years. They where dropped this year so i could not have those. It goes like the clappers when i push on and that quite frankly is the whole point of it.

I actually agree about the saddle to bar drop asthetics but that is the problem i had. I knew if i went for the smaller size (medium) the top tube would be to short and while i would be able to have a bigger drop the position would not be good. I have a 130mm stem on that large frame so the position is far more stretched but with a shorter saddle to handle drop it is still comfortable. I am not that flexible. tried 140mm saddle to handle drop on another bike i have with a very long sqtem on a top tube the same length as the medium 795 and postition is fine but not perfect.

If look did a 140mm stem i coukc have gone for the medium frame which might have kept the proportions more appealing but alas they don't. So large it was and the position is just right and the rest is just athestics.

Generally bikes look better in smaller size shame i am tall.

Miche bb's did have adjustable cups back in days when they where iso taper axles. As they are jis axles now they have gone to fixed cups.

Fixed chainline 42mm thqt is centre of seat tube to centre of chainring is 42mm. Dropout to cwntre of sprocket should be 18mm. Figure which oart is at fault and say sod it and change the bb to a 103mm and be done. with it

If you dont want to carry a spare tub then i hope you like walking because if you are relying on pitstop or other sealant you are askkng for it. I carry pitstop and a spare tub. Rarely need it but i dont like walking if i did i would just go for a walk.

Superglue and patches. What exactly are you planning to do with those.

Kinlin xr 22 rrs ocr disc brake rims are ace. The ryde pulse sprint is all black. Both these rims have offset drilling. D lights spokes are fine but for high miles use trople butted spokes. You can get round this with a deep rim like the velocity aileron or the kinlin xr31 rts ocr. The dt rr511bd would be good too. I have found 24h deep disc brake rims are fine with load when laced with cxrays.

I ride a set of ailerons 24h laced to novatec hubs with cx rays. Weight under 1600g.

Got velocith blunt sl rims not my favourite a bit flexy for me. The wheels are fine but i woild not build them with lasers or cx rays.

Yes not sure where you can buy an acle though unless a srandard threaded axle can be used.

Holes not regularly spaced. Have you a photo. Seems odd but it seems they have done it to get the same spoke length for both sides. More oddness.

plus gas is a good penetrating fluid use this and it might be easier to remove. Next time use anti seize on the threads it should mean this problem does not occur.

Gycc race at St olaves i had to stop for crash and restart in the wrong gear while whoever was on the front thought lets go. Chased to close the substainal gap and get back on which i did but that was me done for. Just about clung on for dear life till the last 500m. Still last year i would have not got back on or blown up once i got back on. Progress of sorts.

Raced this today. I should a new photo though as there is a tasty berk saddle on it now and it is filthy from riding. Such a lovely ride.

That me. I have put the disc brake kinlins on the web yet.

The kinlin xr31 rt ocr catchy name right is 490g. The r460's i have weighed are 485g so not much in it.

Novatec d772 or miche syntium dx

Novatec d772 hub takes a campagnolo feeehub.

I take the basso has firm bonds for all tubes. If you can confirm that you probably have a sale to a man in the U.K

Is it still for sale if so I will take it!

Lasers are useful on front wheels. They are fine on rear wheels with stiff rims. 24 sapim race 290mm length spokes weigh in at 150g where as 28 lasers weight 133g. Not a massive saving but a 24 spoke wheel with race spokes is not really more reliable than a 28 spoke wheel with lasers.

Alpine 3 and sapim force spokes rock. Not much heavier than the comps or race but more fatigue resistant. I really like them.

Black spokes may not be worth the premium but onmy one in 10 people roughly ask for solver spokes it may be 1 n 15.

This is why measure your self properly and use Spoke calc spreadsheet by Daimon Rinhard. It works perfectly.

If your at 2K why stop there in for a penny in for a pound that is how all my builds get out of control.

Off set rims have the holes drilled offcentre to one side. This increases the low side spoke tension leading to a longer lived wheel.

If you are looking a 10 speed hubs the Shimano XTR as good as they get. The old M950 hubs are ace but not disc brake. The M965 are pretty sweet. XTR hubs are like dura ace hubs they go on and on. XT hubs are like 105 hubs they work well but not for as long as XTR hubs. DT swiss 350 hub are very good and I would probably pick those as you can put 11 speed on these too unless you plan to use a 11 speed MTB cassette on Shimano MTB hubs.

If you use triple butted spokes like DT Swiss alpine III you wont need a 36H rim/hub.

The ideal spec I think is 32H Kinlin XR31 RTS OCR rims laced to DT Swiss 350 CL or Shimano XT M8000/M785 or the XTR M985/9000 hubs with DT swiss Alpine III spokes (or spaim force if you can get them). that would be on the robust side of robust.

For rims the stiffest is the Kinlin XR31T and there is an offset disc brake version now.

DT Swiss RR511 is stiff but not offset more expensive and require funny nipples and nipple washers.

Pacenti SL25 is a decent rim but not offset. Otherwise I can find nothing wrong with it.

Velocity Aileron is pricey but my set have been pretty good. I have killed two rear rims though one down some steps and one in a pot hole.

DT Swiss R460 DB is nice and cheap and so is the Kinlin XR22 RTS OCR (catchy name hey0 disc brake rim. this is offset same price as the DT R460 and nicer to build with (rounder and flatter).

The archetype though is indistructable available in 36H drilling but then you are limited to mostly shimano MTB hubs like the venerable XT M756. that would be a sturdy wheel just not a light one.