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Try around 1000N. Tension on a front wheel should "fierce" the wheel won't last if it isn't. You may have to adjust tension on neighbouring spokes to get it straight.

On road hubs it is expected on a track hub there is no cassette to ruin the spacing. Enough novatec hate they actually make some very good hubs as well.

The slow twitch thread results is something I have noticed. I only put latex sealant in latex tubes. It works so so in butyl tubes but generally always works in latex. It hunk it down to how big holes in latex tubes get. They are generally smaller somehow.

A lot of my customer love the Verdestein tri comp fortezza's. Never tried them myself but they seem decently light and going by there comments punctures are few and far between. When I tried the conti 4 seasons I had nothing but trouble. Wrecked on set of tyres withing 25 miles and both had to be changed due to big holes. Numerous sidewalls cuts and other stuff has put me off. Conti gp4000s tyres have served me well but my favourite tyres are vittoria corsa sc and page's. These simply work well. For winter use I switch to conti competition tubulars and schwable one tubeless. I used to use gatorskin hardshell but the ride they give is horrid even for 25mm tyre. Challange strada bianci 30 mm is one I truly love as it failed to puncture on Paris roubaix and the ride oh my I can hit potholes and barley notice. I will be commuting on these when we move.

To the guy who bought marathon plus tyres if you puncture you are doing well and don't bother fixing it that tyre is so stiff you can ride it flat.

Miche hubs have a flange seperation is 62mm (centre to centre) for the front and rear hub which gives bracing angles of 6.4 degrees with an archetype rim for example vs 5.5 degrees for the novatec A166SB (in fact the centre to centre distance for the front novatec track hub is higher than the rear!). So while novatec hub are nice to look at they are not optimal and that is my only problem with them. Miche hubs have a 42mm chainline.

Ambrosio hubs are made by novatec. I hope this clarifies what I mean. However with a stiff rim and a 32 spokes like most track wheels it make little difference when riding. It depends how obsessed you are.

How do find braking only on a coaster hub?

7 speed ug cassettes are available look on ebay or post wanted adds in forums. I got one for a customer that way new as well for a chap in Finland.

The kinlin rim is flexible and did not build well. To get it straight some uneven tension resulted. Horrid in every way.

Miche hubs are not things people slate. There road hubs are well regarded. Mdcc tester does not like them as he has had lock rings that break. Never found that myself and it only the lock ring even it does happen. Never had problems with even one of them. They just work. They are also more available than novatec as there is u.k distribution. Ambrosio track hubs are novatec rebated and u.k distribution so that's an option too. The only thing I don't like about the novatec hubs is some of them have 50m flange to flange separation which is a bit narrow for a track hub. Not sure which model which make buying difficult.

Look at the TB 14 rim it ticks all your boxes it cost more though

It is. I do wonder if a set of North Road bars upside down would be appropriate. I have decided to keep the build as british as possible but as i love Royce components I think I will get there cranks, bb and hubs. Wooden rims for the wheels an old brooks saddle and the stem perhaps go. The brakes are the bit I am stuck unless I drink some man up and dont fit any.

This thread is wonderful. Must get my 1948 rra built up. Got lots of parts to find.

All shimano road mech until the new 11 speed ones have the same parallelogram design meaning they are interchangeable. A 10 speed mech can be used on 6 speed and visa versa.

The op says he has 6 speed uni glide. Silly suffolk has assumed that the op has a 6 speed freewheel which maybe correct but maybe not. The op may have a 6 speed uni glide cassette in which case finding a 7 speed cassette is hard has they are almost extinct.

If the op use friction shifter and does fit a 7 speed cassette or freewheel then fiction shifters don't care what your sprocket spacing is. Down tube shifters should be friction

The kinlin adhn rim is horrid built with it once and never again. Hugo7 wants shallow box section rim. Well what about the h plus son TB 14 this is a fine rim. As for hubs in a fan of miche.

That would be a problem. The threads look fine an Italian thread bb is not hard to find which type do you need.

If your bb is loose fitting another threaded bb will not help. A threadless bb is needed. The threads in the shell are probably damaged and they cannot be repaired easily. Prestige or first are your two main options.

The old campagnolo be like the one you have 3 part have a different taper to the iso taper used after 1995 therefore it will not fit well. What is needed is a centaur 11 1 mm iso taper bb's or the tifosi bb 11 1 mm iso taper.

Day to a became centaur after a couple of years and uses a 11 1 mm iso taper bb.

Fh-vl001 is a rear hub part. There are two front hub cups he read 5 and he ch004

I always use grade 10 chrome balls in hubs. They run smooth with these. Weldite balls should not be sold as they will ruin your hubs. Grade 10 bearings are not much expensive than grade 25 and are rounder. It what campagnolo use in there hubs ever wonder why they are so smooth and last so well. Chrome balls are harder than stainless balls which is a good thing. Stainless balls are also more prone to pitting than chrome steel. Chrome balls rust more easily if the grease runs thin so use a peristaltic grease.

293mm are available in silver in sapim race and sapim laser. These are not hard to find. I look on my shelf surely other places have them too. In black sapim laser is available. Looks like you are building a front wheel so lasers would be o.k but race is even better for this rim it not very stiff. Spoke calc which is the same as Leonard is never wrong. The dt Swiss calculator always come up 1 mm to long and you have to spend more time tensioning.

If you build the wheel right and use suitable components spokes should not break.

If your vent hub is cup and cone which it should be the nds bearing cup is available next fh-vl001 I think but the d's cup is no longer available. Only cones for rear track hubs are available now which are a bit short. Free hub bodies cannot be bought new anymore. You should be able to use the chorus hub. Velour hubs from the 8 speed era are cup and cone I think. I have seen later velour hubs with cartridge bearings.

Seeing as you have the rims and hubs buy the spokes and build yourself. If you buy all the parts that what you are supposed to do. Fine rims and hubs. Easy rims to build with.

Anything? Still looking.

As above really. I am not fussed about the condition of the internals as I have a donor chorus hub which is in good order apart from a cracked flange.

So what you got.

sapim race or comps will work fine. Alpine III are fine spokes but I am not sure the extra expense is warranted as 73kg is not alot and a fixed wheel, wheel is very stiff. Also the alpine III spokes is only available from madison in silver.

I tend to use triple butted spokes on higher spoke count wheels that are taking a significant load. 73 kg is not a significant load for a spoked wheel.