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All spares for campagnolo hubs are available. Pics jot visible so what is actually damaged.

My stress relieving tool are my hands. I have calluses to prove it. Spoke wind up is avoided to a large extent by using alloy nipples. The sapim ones are quite corrosion resistant, don't break and as the almost eliminate wind up with lasers so that is the best reason to use them.

Anodised black brass nipples seem to cause more wind up than standard brass so avoid those. Also spoke length is key if you start to run out of threads wind up happens which is why I normally round down on spoke lengths. Also sometimes some batch of spoke are really bad for wind up. Sapim had that last year with black lasers but that problem passed a while back.

Uniformity of threads on the spoke and nipples are important too. If a spoke winds up early I swap the nipples and then the spoke and often cures it. windup is never a big problem for me but I don't know how it varies with other spoke brands. I use lasers a lot so of was going to happen every day it should to me. What spokes do you use a arup.

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I use the Park Tool dishing tool. But any dishing tool will do the job. The Park TM-1 is out by 10% or so with sapim race spokes. I think 25 is around 1200N. sold mine recently. I currently use a DT Swiss tensio (got two in fact) and a sapim gauge. I do not however use the charts provided as I have my own jig with a load cell and get deflections of that.

Doing tension by how hard the nipple is to turn will lead to variable tension as the threads are not perfect. Some nipples are just hard to turn and yet the tension is no different to the neighbouring spokes. Nipples do distort as well which can cause them to be tight. The main reason why your method works is either you have pretty good feel and doing it on a track wheel helps alot as it not dished.

Hovis just ride the wheel as it is. If you can feel the hop then bin it. I never try to correct roundness. The rim is either good or it isn't if it isn't it gets binned (I dont bin many rims thankfully).

If you look after your cables the time spent could be saved up for replacing them. Looking after cable may increase service life, it does not save time which is most important to me. I like fit and forget kit. Anything I have to fiddle with beyond the inital setup annoys me. so either rotor's new effort is a blessing or it will be a curse!

But lacing is theraputic so you get to do it again. It's a joy really it is.

According to the weight weenies thread they have had to wait till a current patent filed in 1995 expired. I now has. The though of a fully hydraulic groupset with disc brakes is quite appealing for my all year round commuter. Currently it has record 10 speed on it which over winter will get ruined. That belongs on another bike really.

If its not trued, dished and stress relieved it is not built. ? you have laced it and put some tension on it. that is step one. I hope you enjoy the next few steps. Keep plugging away. It not about how quickly you build it.

I never knew googling was a game it could be a great game.

The wheels in that paper where only tensioned DS to 980N this is not enough and he calls it a highly tensioned wheel. I have never found 1000N is enough DS rear 1200N is enough.

I personally think for 28 spoke wheels 2x or 3x is fine. The difference are too small to cause a problem if the wheel is properly built. 2x lacing should give a stiffer wheel but even that is marginal at best.

I would use sapim laser front and NDS rear and sapim race DS rear. Race/comps all round is overkill especially for the front less so on the rear. Alpine III are over kill those spoke a great for very heavy riders, tandems, tourists.....

24F/28R is fine. I am heavier and ride 20F/24R without issue. The rim is stiff that what allows the lower spoke count. DA hubs are very nice and highly recommended. Just service one in while and they will last for a long time.

Jwestland spoke tension should be +/- 5%. Dont bother trying to true radialy. If the tension is within the spec I say the wheel will be acceptably round <0.5mm and certainly <1mm if the rim is any good. If the rim shows hop with even tension bin the rim but hop has to significant to notice probably over 2mm. I find all brands of rim from HED to H plus son vary in how round they are from rim to rim 0.2mm is ideal but mostly the rim is round to within 0.5mm and there is little you can do about it. Also a dial gauge is the only good way to measure these things due to the hop often looking bigger than it actually is.

Radial truing to get it rounder will result in uneven spoke tension and premature spoke failure. Getting a rim straight to within 0.2mm is pretty easy whether it stays though is another matter. If it fully stress relieved and stiff enough it should but slight movement over time up to 0.4mm wobble has been known.

Go for even tension or as even as is reasonable. Going by tone is not something I can do I find it hard to know how even tension really is that way or what the tension is. A tension gauge like the Park TM-1 could give you better results.

Mcddc tester, if you know where those Zipp articles are please let us know. Zipp do publish quite useful information.

A change of tyres may also be at fault. Some tyres cause a significant tension drop and that may lead to excessive flex when riding due to NDS rear spokes going slack.

the DS rear spokes should be tensioned to 1200N. If its that then there is no problem to be fixed. When customers come in with this issue and I explain it to them I get the look like I am making it up. I am not things are not what they seem.

The wheel will not magically start flexing more. That flex maybe normal for that wheel. I have very stiff wheels that show that kind of movement if I pull the wheel. My HED belgium C2 tubulars 28H built onto record hubs (silver ones 28H) with sapim CX-ray spokes are a good example, I can even get brake rub but that because my pads are too close. The wheels are very stiff in that N/mm of deflection is quite high but when I pull on the rim I see movement. All my medium depth or deeper rims show this. My really unstiff wheels (very shallow tubular wheels) with Mavic GEL280 rims show the same deflection at the brake pads but are far less stiff. Conclusion rim depth is the factor you are not considering here.

Wheel stiffness and flex at the brake pads are NOT related as directly as you might think. What rim, spoke count and spoke type is being used. This "issue" has been present all along but you are now noticing it because something other than the wheel has changed.

See this article for a full explaination.
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15505311.html

Brake rub is one of those things that can happen and the other factor you have not considered is the frame. If the frame is less stiff than the wheels guess what brake rub happens. I have the same issue on one of my steel bikes. A stiff set of wheels in a skinny tubed steel bike and rub happens. I can cure it somewhat with a less stiff set of wheels or is it because the less stiff wheels use a shallower rim. Not sure a bit of both in truth.

I use zefal sealant. Works a treat.

Storing wheels in the bedroom. I'm not impressed never mind your girl friend. I'm not impressed because you must have cleaned them before taking them up. What a waste of valuable time.

The velocity rim is 70 lighter and stiffer so a lower spoke count is possible. Difference are small though. Depends how much you like collecting wheels. If your like me you have both ride neither and build or buy another set.

There is something about race tyres. I get less punctures now with vittoria open corsa's than I ever had with Gatorskins. It might have more to do with the supple casing don't know but my commuting tyres are going to be Challange strada branch's because they are ace.

Love it. I want mine to be that colour.

Klein love, this is mine. Just wish it was the metallic purple they did.

Ryde trace endure rims are pretty wide internally as well. Not heavy either.

Yes I said apply a new layer to the rim an tub and leave over night for a rim with glue already on it. When the two make contact after mounting, a bond forms. Then inflate to 120 psi and leave overnight. The bond is extremely secure the following day. No mess either.

When mounting on new rim one layer of glue on the rim leave over night then another on the rim and tub and leave over night. Mount the tyre the following morning and inflate to 120 psi. Leave 24 hrs and vulva it's ready to roll. I have had people describe they broke finger nails getting the tub of I have glued. Personally use a tyre lever it's less painful.

The tub has to fit the rim properly though. My latest is vittoria sc tub on old mavics gel 280 rims and there does not fit the rim properly there are gaps at edges. It should be fine though I'll find the hard way if it isn't (it my bike).

When changing a tub at the side of the road I mount a pre glued tub on the rim. By the time I get home the bond is so good I can leave it in place if I want to and have done for months until that tub punctured.

Small fury. Paves are lovely. You will love the ride. I do think the rolling resistance is bit higher on these but you won't notice on a hill as gravity is worse. The grip is superb.

The is no such thing a hook less clincher. I would run them at even lower pressures. Never got a tyre above 50 psi safely on a hookless rim. Gatorskins are not bad in the wet they just require commitment.

The conti tour ride is available in this size too.

Well I say holes in latex tubes are generally smaller as I run latex tubes on my race bike with clinchers and most punctures are so small I Can't find the hole so the only way to repair is with sealant. I would expect conti revolution sealant to work better with butyl tubes and on that point I must get some more for my nice tubulars.

My vectors keep on breaking. If this continues I will be in the market for something else. They have been so bad and inconsistent I have no idea what my ftp is. I actually don't care either well I do but since I can't measure it I have to not care.

Why remove old glue it not Ness cary. Remove the big lumps, apply new layer to the rim and new tub leave over night then mount. Leaving over night is my trick to avoid mess and it does not affect the bond.

Mastik is by far the best glue. You also get more in a tin.

Any shimano 7 speed shifter will index a 7 speed cassette in a 126mm frame. 7 speed spacing is just that and it does not matter the width of the dropout.