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I have issues before with sun race thumb shifters my solution was to open it up and remove the bits that did the indexing and convert it to friction only. Worked a treat after that.

Vat rp42500 tyre lever set but it is not a normal one make easy work of tight tyres. Hurt my hand recently and I found this which allows me to continue being a mechanic while my hand heals.

Velocity make some quiet decent mtb rims. The blunt series is actually a good rim. I have a set of blunt sl rims which are for exactly what you want to use the bike for.

This thread has too many nice looks in it.

I think it is unavoidable I need to collect them. I am starting with a 795 Aerolight and will go backwards in time. I really need to find the 675 or was it another model they did in national colours. I think the new bikes are just as interesting as the old ones.

Any ideas on how to fund this.

Also the timing of lights is wrong for most cyclist and there are far to many lights all because motorist can't work out right of way at mini roundabouts. If I had my way all traffic lights would go well most of them and if as a motorist you a found not being to handle the junction some pays you a visit takes your licence and crushes your car into a cube. Firm but fair way of getting more people on bikes. In fact that how all motoring offenses should be dealt with.in my world my licence would be taken and my car would be a cube. I would still vote for that though.

I know wearing my club jersey I behave my self more. If the committee get an email saying saw one of yours behaving baby around sudbury Glemsford way they will think Malcolm. So I don't behave badly.

The main cause though for poor behaviour is that the roads are designed around the car. That is slowly starting to change but it is still no excuse for using the pavement. The way we do tragic lights though needs to be looked at. They need to pick up cyclists and change when there is no one about which some do but not all. Also allowing left turns like the Americans do (Right turns) will help a bit too. If traffic flow is eased then the poor behaviour will demish if rules rules rules continue to prevail which impede traffic flow for everyone then all you get is frustrated bike riders and frustrated car drivers making sweeping generalisations about the other when tempers flare a bit.

I don't think they have got there branding quite right. Brave man is not very enticing.

Yes they new ones are just fine with any rim. the old version needed a deep stiff rim with a decent spoke count. Powertaps are easily got by any shop with a Paligap account for an online price so no need to pay retail anywhere.

Second is good if its in good order. Also you dont have to pay £70 for a freehub they use a Novatec type B2 body which is alot less if you know where to look (there is one distributor which no one seems to think of).

if you are doing your self sapim race.

What about the BLB (DNP) freewheels I have found those to be pretty good.

There is a U.K distributor I buy the rims of them. The Distributor is known to proper bike shops they don't advertise or turn up to any shows.

The only reason not to get them from BHS is shipping costs. It i expensive. I was actually searching for a pic of the rim for a customer which is how I stumbled across this thread.

It depends on the spoke nipped bed thickness whether nipped washer are needed or not. Very light rims might benefit but you the rims should not need them if they are properly made. I have not used nipped washers yet. Rim cracking has so far been limited to a couple of old v1 pacenti sl23 and one carbon rim after the rider crashed badly. I really don't see the point in wasting time with them. The two failures with the pacenti rims I think we're down to spoke tension being at the limit of 1200N rather than 1150N ds rear which is were I decided the practical limit was quite quickly. Spoke tension is key to avoiding rim cracking as is spoke count being appropriate for the rider weight.

New tablet does not have all the rims names in it yet. This is the third one this year. Getting ready to through modern tech in the skip as it not a help really.

The new pacenti sl23 has a 20.2mm internal width so is just right for big tyres. The archetype will be fine but it is narrower. The quill looks good but as it not available in the u.k yet it is rather moot. Besides velocity rims are a bit of a mixed bag. Of all the rim brands the one with the most rejects from me has been velocity. Some of the ailerons this year have just not been round and have big bumps or worse a bump that shows on the side.

As for back low cost hubs in 20f 24f drilling look no further than miche primato.Very reliable 435g for the pair and they come with 11 speed bodies. The problem is you won't find them from the usual sources as in these drillings they are available from miche only oem at least that how I get them for wheel building. Chickens cycles only sells same drilling pairs but has 24f 24r pairs in a few weeks as they are out again.

How old is the Miche BB. They were ISO taper at one point but switched to JIS taper in the last year or two (maybe earlier than that). The old ISO taper BB's if I am not mistaken have adjustable cups. The newers don't. A stronglight chainset will be for JIS taper BB's.

A shim on the rear hub could sort the problem. It is more likely to be poor tolerances on the tapers on the chainset and BB.

The hub being off though is poor though.

Not got worse as such other rims got better i.e wider and stiffer. There is can be a little bump at the weld join on an open pro but nothing serious.

For 28h rims lacing 2x or 3 is fine. I do 2x because I think it looks better and in theory the shorter spokes give a stiffer wheel but practically there is little difference for the end user in terms of spoke life.

Looks like mavic have just remained there rims then. I like there comment the open pro c is probably the best road rim on the market. Best by what standard? Why are mavic still producing rims for sale they obviously can't be bothered to create something modern.

Grade 10 chrome from simply bearings

I got some wheels of eBay for the alloy axle chorus hubs. Turns out the hubs are perfect and the fir tubular rims they are laced to are perfect. The wheel needs truing and tensioning up properly but what a result. Sometimes fleabay is o.k. £70 is not bad for this got quite lucky I think.

I find zefal sealant works very well.

The front tubeless tyre on one road bike i have has punctured. It lost sealant and dropped to 40 pis or so. I have tried pumping up but it looses air until the pressure drops only when riding though. So it is still rideable and I have ridden it a few times like this. Must patch the tyre. That the thing about tubeless I have only once properly flatted with a sidewall puncture.

On line the freehub bodies are fifty quid. Replacing the bearings in the free hubs is quite straight forward with correct tools. I use wheels manufacturing bearing pullers but the time along with the cost of the bearings does not make it worth it except on free hubs no longer available or the FH-BU015 with is very expensive.

There is a gp4000s I I tubular tyre in 22mm width only though. Very nice tyres and very durable. Conti gatorskin tubs is what will be appearing on the training bike soon. Winter is almost here.

Vittoria have new versions of the corsa out with magical graphene that they claim lowers rolling resistance but 20%.

Grasping pairs of spokes does permantly stretch the spokes contary to what sheldon suggests. I can show this as when i build a wheel and fully stress relive i see a tension drop which is quite significant. With laser I see a 200 to 300 newton tension drop when I really go at it. If the rim is faulty which annoying and I rebuild or worse I built with he wrong colour rim then I find further grasping of spokes does not cause a tension drop. So spokes do stretch when building. Sheldon is wrong for once unless some one has another explanation for what I see.

I now stress relieve throughout the build as I find it easier as the tension drop each time is jot big and more easily corrected. Also you can ensure that each spoke has been uniformly stressed.

Never damaged a rim when loading it while the hub axle is on the bench. It only works however with stiff wheels. If the wheel is not stiff like a rigid a chain a build then all that happens is the nds spoke unload and the wheel goes out of true every time and you get nowhere. If find side loading is the best way to deal with wind up and grasping pairs of spokes ensures there is no tension drop once the wheel is ridden.

Extralite hubs weigh in at 182g for pair. They are apparently fairly reliable too in terms of bearing life. Those enve hubs look a bit to pricey. For that money (actually less as I got them trade) I had cliff at Royce make me some titanium flanged hubs with a carbon shell. The rear hub is for 2:1 lacing and has a flange seperation of 63 mm. Surely if you are going to spend that much on hubs you want them to look like jewelry, last a lifetime and be well unique.

The wheels that I built them into are simply lovely.