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As period correct t as I can. How long after did are the arret levers. I thought they were 50's. As parts become available I will get them if I find them.

Trying to find 32F 40r tubular rims. No joy. Probably will buy new wooden ones. Really like that idea. I will not be slave to how correct it is. The project will evolve and change with time.

Next to buy are the rims and wing nuts so I can get the wheels built and in the bike.

Well it works for me and others. The base miles build leg strength and build cardiovasular fittness. This makes interval work very effective. It is possible to do this on a turbo in a very structured way but it require alot of displine. The only displine I need is to get out and ride and not to push too hard on the days I feel fatigued.

Low HR would be 100 to 120 bpm for me max is 167 bpm. I suppose that is low to mid Z2. Today ride was mid Z2 for 85 miles. Most of my rides are Low to mid Z2 with about three Z3 rides a week (about an hour). Z4/5 interval work I will leave for racing next year and interval work when I am not racing.

I am doing alot of hours 546km this week. Oct it was 400km a week and through november/dec it has been over 500km a week. Some hill intervals but mostly low heart rate ride. No indoor training. I ride twice a day monday to saturday with a longer ride on sunday.
I do 20 minute road test (shortest route home on the commutor) and at a heart rate of 140bpm I managed 271W in november and while more fatigued last week it was 288W at the same heart rate. That is one way of improving FTP. Obviously that is not an FTP test as that heart rate is lower than my hour pace HR.

There are many ways to increase FTP. base miles at low HR is another way. So Ptown your 32 fixed miles a day is a good way to start and do what I do most of time it is a slow plod but 2 or 3 rides a week has harder intervals with easy inbetween. One ride week is as hard as your legs allow. Some of the best ammateur riders I know ride every day in the manor I have described I am copying them. I will leave the high intensity work until the spring and the racing and TT's will be the high intensity work.

Let you guy take care of the painting himself. Otherwise you will be involved in the potential mess.

Shouldn't a lo-pro be fixed. Looks like an interesting build.

I bought this frame restored earlier this year and now I have started to buy parts for it.

the D/T decals have been mis-applied I think - too close together but apart from that it seems to be in good order.

the frame does not have the rear rack braze on's so this makes it a racing RRA in my book and I wonder if it was ever used this way.

I have a Renoylds 531 stem and Renoylds bars that are awfully narrow and a challanging shape, may have to change these. The hubs are Solite 32F/40R (fixed). I plan to lace them to tubular rims possibly wooden ones. Tyres will be Challange Strada Bianca 30mm because the are comfortable, don't puncture (have 4000km on the clinchers without issue) and they have a tan side wall which I like.

The brake lever bought are GB Arret. No hoods at present and they need cleaning up.

I have bought today a William's crankset and NOS chainrings for it. I have also got coming a Renolds Elite 1/2"x 1/8" chain (NOS).

Looking for a period seatpost, pedals, brakes, a period fixed sprocket too and a BB for this chainset.
Looking forward to riding it.

Got 16 now I think I may have enough until I spot something else I want. Running out of space though now.

surely the hole has not sealed and you have slow leak?

I have an mtb with conti's and they are rubbish. They are properly set up. In the wet they work in a very so so fashion. Mud gets caught around the brakes if it's claggy and it often is.

I don't use my v brake bike when it's wet. The kit on it is far too nice. My disc brake mtb's have no problems in the mud. I like old kit but I struggle to find redeeming features for cantilever brakes apart from they look good on a old bike.

It is still a ceramic coating. Tungsten carbide is a ceramic material.

What a tubular tubeless? What is that supposed to mean. You have sealant trapped in the casing. If the tub is holding air then all is well. If you put too much sealant then Crr goes up that's it. I have ridden tubs with sealant filling a hole for a good long while.

Ryde pulse sprint is 385g and has a black brake track now. That is only option that meet your criteria.

If you are preloading tyre amey why carry pitstop. If the latex sealant won't stop a leak then pitstop won't. Carry a spare.

Challange strada bianca seems to have the longevity of a marathon plus but feels nice to ride. 30mm only.

I have not seen the CCS rims on sale yet. Would not mind trying some.

wheels manufacturing will do a compatible cone. Look up there chart. I have every one of them if that help but I have no idea which one is the closest match.

The reason why your laser spokes snapped is not the spoke it is a poor build. used 1000's of lasers and they don't snap.

Your wheel is out of true probably because of insufficent stress relieving and or some wind up being present.

the archetype rim is not offset.

can't find the A165SB rear hub but there is a A166BT rear hub which is 262g. Your hub must be heavier maybe 340g or more.

the rim is 485g. spokes and nipples wont be more than 7.25g each it probably is less but I can't find any details on ACI aero spokes.

you could just use a friction shifter. I used to friction shift on 10 speed without issue.

WI T11 hubs are light and better hubs than CK's IMO in that they are simpler to service.
Kinlin XR31t is an exceelent rim off set drilling too. not that pretty but wide deep. 490g as well.

If you want light and wide then the ryde pulse sprint is a good option and so is the pacenti SL23.
The kinlin and HED belgium + (the older C2 is not even sold anymore) are alot stiffer.

So you have choose between light and wide, and hevaier, stiffer and wide.

Royce hubs are lovely too. Shimano dura ace are perfect and so are Campagnolo Record.

Today was filthy in Suffolk. Tried riding off road to Thetford forest but it rained continiously. very muddy got soaked and cold. turned back near Elvedon and when I got back i could not even hold the door keys i was that cold.

Still i would rather have wet than ice.

find a very thin spacer then. The width you have quoted is cassette width but the big cog is dished. the freehub length between 8 an 9/10/11 speed is less than 1.3mm i think. not sure exactly.

485g! I was surprised too but that only a small number of rims. the disc brake version is 440g. I like this rim more.

The DT swiss R460 is an O.K rim. thes rim on the market at present (not for looks though) is the Kinlin XR31T.

It is very stiff, 31mm deep 24mm wide and comes with an offset drilling. It is as round and flat as an HED and most folk won't need anything more than a 24 spoke rear.

triple butted spokes on the rear will allow heavy riders to ride them with ease. I have sapim CX force on order to lace them to Miche Primato hubs. This will be a nice wheel. Also if you can get hold of some proper triplet lacing hubs with NDS flange to centre of around 46mm then you can have a 90% tension balance with the off set rim which is handy as tubeless tyres cause a big tension drop on all tubeless rim once the beads locks in place.

You can spend a hug ammount on wheels and they do the same job as much cheaper ones. speaking as a wheel builder spending much over £300 starts getting very small performance gains.

The novatec hubs are actually very good as so are Miche Primato's. Shimano Dura Ace are wonderful but Camapagnolo record are light and perfect too. cheaper as well. WI T11 have the advantage of a good range of drillings and Royce hubs are just perfection but you pay for it. Of course if you really want to spend ask Cliff to do you a set of his carbon Ti hubs. i did in triplet lacing format (with 64mm flange seperation) now these hubs cost more than my car and I don't ride any faster either. They are very nice though. notice how all of the above hubs are reliable.