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Just bought a pair of 32H and 40h wooden tubular rims. going to have to wait like a kid waiting for Christmas now and then wait some more while the rims stare at me until I find some time to build them up.

Braking will be interesting. Maybe I'll just learn to use my legs.

what has bike radar got to do with anything. Am I not permitted an opinion that is different to yours?

I make a statement and give an argument is that not what debate is about otherwise all we have is an echo chamber.

In what together? It is one of the those meaningless statements that means different things to different people.

There has always been rich and poor and inequality in society. go back a couple of hundred years to see real inequality. In fact there was a paper once that modelled money flow in an economy. the maths used was the same as that used to model the flow of dislocations in metals and how they tangle. What that physist found was it makes little difference how you rig the tax system money always sticks to the few. Those few change with time but it is always a few. So in short as history shows trying to make society more equal never actually works. All you do is move the inequality around a bit and sometimes not even that. I am not saying politics is pointless but we often want politicians to solve problems that can't be solved and we then pay little attention to the problems that can be solved.

It is not an issue. You cant even feel 1mm of radial hop. spending your trying to fix an issue that you simply wont as the tyre and tubes mass is not balanced means you have too much time and you spend that doing something else that is useful!

Oh I forgot the Kinlin XR31t is another good option. Ambrosio are doing a wide rim now called the new evolution.

the archetype is good and so is the R460. The Archetype is a stiffer rim with a thicker spoke nipple bed. Kinlin Xr22t I think is the best as it comes in offset drilling and consistantly round to a higher standard than the archetype or R460 which can show some radial wobble (o.5mm or 0.6mm). you'd be surprised how many calls I get saying my wheel has vertical movement of about 0.5mm.
At least they are looking I suppose.

If you use a friction bar end shifter like Dia compe then you can run any speed you like.

It is 592mm for the archetype if your measuring spoke head is flush or just below the nipple driver flat of the nipple you have loctited in place. It is 595mm if the spoke head is flush with the top of the nipples.

If you use 595mm you must round down by at least 1mm or you will run out of threads. I use 593mm and never run out of threads or have thread exposed i.e the right spoke length.

If you are doing 32H 3x rear with hubs with 44-46mm PCD then spoke length is 288mm/290mm.

it's 593 actually.

592mm for v1 one rims a published 595mm for the v2 rims which measure 593mm so the erd has not changed for spoke length calculation purposes.

As I said knock it out with a hammer. A rubber mallet is what I use. Novatec F482 hubs use a captive axle (terrible design I think) and knocking the axle out from the NDS to the DS with a rubber mallet will never damage the axle and the DS bearing comes out with the axle. Pressing back in means the NDS bearing in the novatec hub needs an overaxle kit.

I have a handy axle sized hole in my wooden work bench on which I place the hub with the freehub already removed and simply tap. Always works it will work for you. No need for a fancy tools for this one. Your over axle it will comprise of a treaded bar and a bunch of spacers. I use an wheels manufacturing toolset which is essentially an expensive threaded bar and spacer and drifts.

Cane creek do these shims. A good shop will have them.

That page on strada's wesbite is not a view on the archetype rim I recognise. i have used hundreds and only found 1 rim that was not up to scratch.

The R460 rim is good and cheaper. That is the reason to use it.

There is no such thing as junk miles. Slow riding builds base fittness quite effectively. Commuting is one of the best way to get fit.

Well I did a few more than I hoped I would do. Mostly all local. few races and a trip to France for PR.

The whole point of pro core is to be able to run the outer casing at 10 psi or so thus giving you excellent grip. Also you are practically invunerable to punctures as if the out tyre cuts and won't seal then there is always the inner one to keep you rolling.

I think this is a great setup for off road touring and I want to use it one my single speed.

The lowest pressure I have been able to run tubeless tyres is 20 psi as below that I can feel them squirming in bends at speed. That is a 2.2" conti race king on a 28.6mm rim.

Wan't to try a set of hookless rims as apparantly lower pressures are possible but I wonder how to get around the tyre squirm issue.

Keep the loose balls it is not a ballache once you get used to it. When I service a headset like this I always bin the caged balls and put good loose balls in and lashings of persistant grease. Always works a treat.

You may have two different standard of 1" headset. The headset for 27.0mm crown races have cup which are slightly different in the size to the cups for headsets for 26.4mm crown races. The I.D of the headtubes of bikes with the two different types of forks should be different. There is about a 0.2mm difference if I remember right.

Yes I am malcolm. the A23 rim is a fine rim but has lots of drilling swarf in it so before I build I have to shake it out or pick it out. I don't like doing that so I don't use the rim. I still have a pair left in the shop that how much I dislike the swarf.

The H plus son archetype was the rim I used the most for a while but Kinlin have the XR22t and the XR31t. Both of which shine. They are in my opinion the best rims in production today as they are cheap, wide, don't crack, tubeless compatible, not heavy and come in offset drilling. The last bit I like alot as tubeless tyres compress rims alot. I have measured a 300N tension drop on the DS rear. thats ~150N of the NDS. A offset rim helps mitigate that problem nicely.

The Mavic open Pro is narrow and shallow. Now aside from the width not being optimal the rim is not stiff. This means when building with one I have to add half hour to time it takes to build one wheel as stress relieving simply takes longer as every time I stress the spoke the wheel goes out of true. Eventually I get bored and my hand start to hurt to much and have to give up and leave it be. I hate that as if I can put it out by stressing with my hands then the rider can too. A good wheel you can lay on its side on a wooden block and load up the rim with your hands and push and it will still be straight. Do that with a 32H or 36H open pro rear wheel and the NDS spokes loose tension the wheel flops and it all over the place when it goes back in the jig. The rim is not bent just spoke tension has changed. Hence I don't build with it any more unless someone really wants one and then I sigh inside as I know what I am in for.

In contrast this afternoon building with a Pacenti SL23 and 1.45hrs later both wheels done and after side loading a few time they were both as straight as they where before. That is the difference a stiff rim makes.

The Mavic CXP33 is narrow but stiff. That is at least half way there. Mavic's tubular rims of day's gone by where the best thing they have ever made. Ambrosio now are the only company still making something similar but they don't have a GP4 which is bloody perfect. There was also the CX12 tub 30mm deep if I remember right. There are a pair on ebay but £150 is a bit rich. Still Mavic have made some very good rims shame they have given up on that now.

36H for first attempt rubbish what you have is easy to build up. For your first built you could pick the H Plus son archetype rims. They are a doodle to built with. Stiff round and flat. Mavic Open Pro's in contrast are much harder to get right.

Basic tools means you will need lots of patience but on your first build you will need lots of patience anyway. Good luck have a box of patience and you will be fine.

XT hubs do need setting up properly when you pull then out of the box. do that and they wont need adjusting again until you service them.

Rigida sputnik is the heaviest and most robust touring rim there is. cheap to.

Ha but there are alot of these challenges I do wonder what the point is.

Where do people find these pics. Do you have a stash of them filed away.

I have not joined it because I do 500km as a matter if course.

I ordered a set in Feb. Given up one them now as they have not been delivered.

Dr disc brake hubs are the same logo less novatec hubs I sell.

XT hubs are fine for touring. The m756 steel axled hubs are still available. These are perfect for tourist.

knock the axle out with a rubber mallet. Sometimes axles can be appear stuck but it is not a problem. Axles do not always withdraw by hand.

Got a set hanging I my shop. Need to get more of these rim is in the new year. They work well.

Tubeless for road cross or mtb works very well. Just carry a spare tube a tyre boot just in case you hole the tyre badly. The benefit is increased grip and comfort from the lower tyre pressures that can be run. I love my tubeless setups.